I hope you are able to duplicate the shoulder cannons and create a back half of the shield! Besides the excellent rifle you made, I feel those are what are missing the most from the toy.
I got my XL set in @The Madness and it is Lovely. you put in so much work and soul on the kit man, I would gladly pay for more pieces rather than have to spend hundreds just to get a specific piece from a 3rd party upgrade kit. Seriously this was on another level than just a printed piece.
Those are some lovely prints! I'm also impressed by that metallic grey, gives it a deluxe glossy look. Congratulations, you're now a luxury arms dealer as well as a cool friend. I think you had something specific in mind with the shield that we haven't yet got around to discussing, perhaps we should pick up on that conversation? I know Asphalt has his eyes on the shield too, so I'd want to make sure I'm respecting his space as well. In regards to the cannons, I am admittedly a bit hesitant to make something printable that can be directly compared to an injection moulded part. I can design the piece, but it will stick out like the proverbial dog's-bits when printed. To be honest, I thought you might be tempted by DNA's offering. Thanks man, I have poured a good deal of free-time into this and am glad it can be appreciated. Nice to see it got to you safely and relatively quickly as well. Thanks again for your support. EDIT: images added 34 +2 pieces... some assembly required.
Nothing special for the shield. Just a back half would be nice. Maybe if you just made similar shoulder guns we could print four of... No interest in DNA stuff. Too many unnecessary add-ons. Posable shoulder guns? That's a silly waste. I'll be printing your stuff for sure. I just need to know if I should wait for the other stuff from you or shell out a couple bucks for files found elsewhere to get the other parts. I'd rather support you! Per our private conversation, I just received my Ender 5 and will let you know once I assemble it!
Got the big rifle printed in orange PLA on my new Ender 5. Came out close to perfect on my first print! However, the rifle cover has been a pain in my butt. On my fourth try, I am currently using 5 copies of a coin model inserted around the base of the rifle cover model in order to make the raft insanely big. It added 3 hours to the print time, but whatever. Maybe the cover will actually print this time. And this is not a dig on the file! This is my first time using a PLA printer. I'm used to resin. Any problems I am encountering are because of my own ignorance.
I printed mine with a 12mm raft around the print. Made for a nice solid base and only add 15-20min to the print.
Would it be possible to have a version with the titanmaster seat in the center and the repair arms on the sides?
Check your PM for the Gcode I sent, it won't even use a raft due to the modeled support. Even though your bed is new you may want to use some glue when you print it, just in case. Sure, I can manage that. But I had to draw the line with this pack as I don't want to be a slave to the project, or keep holding people up with additions. I was away for a couple of days this week, which was bad enough. So without further ado... The Base bits pack is out and it's free to download. Download free STL file S.C.O.R.P. Base bits (City mode parts) • Object to 3D print ・ Cults While I've only sliced and printed with Cura, all 19 models have been tested to run successfully in Slice3r and PrusaSlicer. Feel free to recommend others for testing. Other parts suggested by members will be collected into a 'by request' pack, which will have a small charge attached.
I FINALLY got this thing to print. Cleaned the bed. Added glue stick. Leveled it by SIGHT instead of paper (lined up bed with frame). Changed the bed heat to 65 and the nozzle to 245 (this gray pla spool says 230-250). The print isn't perfect, but it's really close. Just happy it finally worked after 6 or 7 fails.
Hahaha, I am such a NEWB. I didn't know PLA+ existed. I probably did use it without knowing. I will check later and order some normal PLA gray if that's the case. Good job, me.
Glad to see you've had success! It's a bit of an ambitious first project, most people start small, but this just shows you have the guts to start big. Yeah, it looks like PLA+, slightly waxier and sturdier than standard PLA. The same stuff I used for the grey parts. 230-250°C seems too high though. Regardless, my nozzle is set to 185°C for eSun PLA and (PLA+), but my ambient temp ranges from around 25-33°C. This is from heaps of my own testing for best quality and string reduction, not from their recommended specs. You mentioned in PM that some parts had warping on their bottom corners, so I'm glad you re-calibrated by eye. Paper is a good start, but getting level and seeing the head extrude helps. So does printing off 1 layer wafers in each corner + another in the middle. Or a long 1 layer skirt throughout the bed. You get to recognise what a good looking layer looks like. Having a completely level bed helps avoid a whole range of issues, including balance and adhesion. It's probably time I re-calibrated mine again.
Well, first, here's my finished print! Sanded down the slightly off part. How do you make it shiny again where I sanded? Then the weird news! Most of my spools ARE PLA+. And that's fine because the orange gun came out great. But my gray is whatever this is. What have I done?
Nice print! The PETG is no big deal at all. It would have a slightly higher strength and melting point than PLA and not be manufactured from a renewable source. It also probably takes a little more work to get a good finish and certainly explains the high temperatures. I've not had good results with buffing. Make sure you have some good polish medium if giving it a go.
PETG is the PLA version of ABS Yeah, yeah, too many letters and not simple enough for a newb, so I'll ease it up PETG is a pain in the ass to work with for most people until you get your parameters right, but it's got advantages over PLA and PLA+ It has more flexibility than PLA and PLA+ (like ABS) and a higher melt-point (again, like ABS) It also requires higher temperatures than the PLAs (if your slicer has a pre-set for ABS, use that), and requires a different first-layer process than PLA *or* ABS PETG does *not* need to be squished on first layer, and you will rarely have problems with first-layer not adhering to the bed - exactly the opposite If you squish your first layer of PETG, say goodbye to your bed cover - PETG has been known to break glass beds when trying to remove it But it's a beautiful material to work with once you learn - google and read up on it, and get yourself some painters tape and practice - I guarantee you'll come to love PETG
I could go for some Polish sausage. I will have to look up what polish medium is. I enjoy getting my answers conversationally, but I'm guessing I'm like three posts away from someone sarcastically explaining to me what Google is
It could be some old lady from Warsaw who solves crimes by conversing with the dead, but I'm talking about either a buffing compound if you're using a machine, or some kind of grit if trying it by hand. It could be as simple as toothpaste.