*!!!!NEWTYPE CHIME!!!!* *STOPS READING IMMEDIATELY AND ORDERS D&G PACK!!* No. Thanks, I didn't realize it was going Live tonight. Almost bought two for the sheer LOLWTF of two Guard pack pauldron shields, but I exercised modest self control and only got one, and nothing else this time. I knew there was a reason I opted not to buy an RG Zeta this month... - Meanwhile, back to the big backpack of ZZ.. I almost got away with just clipping, cleaning, and attaching these parts with a modestly limited amount of painting... but!! *pay no mind to the two triangular blocks at the bottom of this picture, I realized the kit only needs ONE. * "Almost" only counts in horseshoes and hand grenades. Primed for blue, silver, and gray applications, plus I have the thruster bells and their inner cones detailed with some accent liner. One other thing I did was make some minor corrections to the parts I've had painted for a week. Just sanded out some rough spots or primed over areas where my paint looked dilluted or faded. This will sharpen up with another coat.
I think the perfect grade line is the only one so far that doesn't have it. There is a mg, hg, rg, and robot damashii. Is there an sd version?
I wasn't aware they dropped the new stuff. All three Pale Riders (Space Battle, Land Battle, Todesritter), some more AoZ Hazel series armors, Blaze Zaku, and Mission D/G Types. Already well over my budget this month since Mors actually did drop the other day, but damnit...Todesritter. I need that glorious fusion of EFSF/Neo Zeon glory. Somehow pre-orders don't close until January so I might grab the Pale Riders later. It'll cost me $10 extra in shipping to do it separately but I need to make sure I secure Todesritter. Also, turns out another big ass thing I ordered this past weekend will be arriving Monday. It's gonna be fucking Christmas in September next week. Finally, a Monday other than Labor Day to look forward to. EDIT: Goddamn, $50 just for Todesritter shipped...ugh, absolutely have to go cold turkey on purchases on October for this. Thankfully, I think the only thing left on my want list is Mercutius/Vayate and if that's the ONLY thing I buy next month (because I'm almost certain that pack will if the Pale Riders just dropped now). Damn my expensive tastes and need for more Zeon suits!
MG Zero EW-----"totally clear" parts, instead of clear-neon-green, AGAIN? Really getting sick of that, especially when frankly, Daban KO's etc do it better. (Example---Daban MG Epyon is identical to Bandai's, except that Daban actually molded a set of the dragon eyes and chest-lens etc, in clear-green). The stickers on the forearm sensors look especially bad, instead of clear-green parts. Those are PLENTY large/important enough to warrant being molded in clear-green, and not just being a sticker. Getting a "glowing transparent neon green" is extremely hard to paint, you really can't match the "almost neon fiber-optic light-catching effect" that molded-in-neon-clear-colors plastic has. (And Bandai's been getting better and better at it over the years---some kits put any TF light-piping to shame, with how much "glow" those sprues can pick up). Yet Bandai seems to do it less and less, opting to cater to the few people who want to make a totally-custom colorscheme, by molding it color-less. (IMHO, those skilled enough to totally change the kit's scheme, are skilled enough to paint the clear parts---those of us who tend to do more straight builds, appreciate having the toughest colors, like trans-neon-green, pre-colored)
Bandai usually moulds translucent pieces in clear so that customizers can choose which colour they want to be.
Clear paints exist and some are easy to use and mix, copying neon though is tricky. I almost had it for one project but the bottle dried out and I can't remember how I did it. I made Teal from Testors clear green and clear blue, and using a gloss clear coat with clear red does make a clear pink. The Teal has become my go to color for a few kits now, namely ZZ and FAZZ ver. KA, so it might be the color I would use for Wing Zero 2.0 too. To be honest, I wish I had properly figured out this recipe when I built my Wing ver. Ka too. One pain is painting clear parts while on the runner is you risk taking off a chunk of your paint while clipping and trimming them. So you're best painting some of them before installing them like I had to do these. Getting them to "glow" is tricky depending on how sharp your color is and if you can do a backing coat with silver on an unobstructed back surface. Parts like these clear parts and likely the Zero's forearm sensors is they've cupped so you have odd shapes to the backside of the part which would make your backer coat not look so well from the front side's smooth face. I have plans for this with the clear Wave H-eyes for my F90 B-Pack, coating the back sides with the molotov chrome pen, and using my canopy cement to set them instead of Tamiya cement.
Yeah I know, that's what I'm ranting about. Those who just want clear green etc, it's hard to do well. Clear paints are often thick/sticky, and even if airbrushed, slight differences in layer thickness in different areas of the part are highly visible. (same issue if using tinted Future). If the part's not dead flat across its face, it WILL pool in some areas more than others. It'd be like molding Sazabi or anything else of Char's in "primer grey" to make it easier to custom paint in weird colors----it's making it WAY harder for the many who just want to have a screen-accurate red one.
So getting the MGEX unicorn through HLJ was a mistake. Shipping for it alone right now is $100. Luckily I have a lot of stuff there that doesn't increase the shipping cost past that, so it'll balance out, but he must be a big boi with a large minimum box size.
I stopped using HLJ for big gunpla boxes, MG Fazz ver. Ka (around the same box size) cost me also a fortune to ship from them, and that price was added to the total amount I had to pay the tax on once delivered. That was a total failure.
Not really sure how I feel about the tails for the phoenix costing as much as a MG Sazabi. Seems overkill even for PB. Anyways all my modeling is on hold my trusty SparMax Mini is so low on compression that I'm having to thin paints to a point that it's very overly thinned and looks a bit ass. Maybe has something to do with the 4ft drop onto the deck outside busting off the front cover.... Either way new compressor is in the mail and I sprung for one with a nice tank.
AHAHAHAHA I went and checked the P-Bandai site and you know what isn't listed anymore? THE TODESRITTER! Impulse purchase VINDICATION. I feel like the tails are almost certainly going to get reproduced by some third party for a fraction of the cost - they're just glorified tassel attachments on the shields.
Been spending some time working on the knee-armor mods for my MG Wing ver.Ka. Comparison with the HGBF Wing Zero Honoo's knees, and the stock MG Wing ver.Ka knees. It currently looks weird since it's so beefy and faceted; once the cement dries I'm going to be grinding and shaping it down quite a bit so that it'll be smoother and slimmer. Still haven't made much progress on the shoulder-armor add-on, which would be the last custom/scratch-built parts I need to finish before moving onto painting.
Just gotta grab the haro fitter and I’ll have all the non exclusive haros again as new exclusives pile up lol
Finally got the Eldora Brute and May that were shipped out this April. Based on the Japan Post tracking, they were sitting in Canada Post warehouse for more than 3 months and returned to sender this Aug. Thankfully, Amiami just reshipped them without question or I probably would just give up on those. Built the Hambrabi Suban that came with May. Other than the color, Suban probably fits better in the UC universe lol.
Quick question, how good is the RG Unicorn? I am considering on getting the RG Unicorn Banshee and wanted to know if its worthwhile to get it.
Silver layer! mind the sloppy look, its when my paint startedto gelly and I managed to spread it out with a little thinner later. Besides, these wide spaces will be covered with armor, and only the exposed edge and panel gap will be seen. The armor now, loosely placed. I need to do a second coat on the blue and I'm seeing how much of the
