Just got mine today. Knee ratchets don't work, the leg panels on the inner leg don't stay tabbed in and I'm too nervous (and crap) to disassemble the legs to fix it. Overall proportions are nice, but it just looks so weedy next to MP10. A bit of revell paint fixed the dead eye problem, but the overall unpainted finish really hurts it in terms of appearance. All in all, I'm pretty underwhelmed. If it weren't for the knees being buggered I probably would just put it on ebay, but I guess I am stuck with it now.
I can agree with you on that point; MP10B looks way better as Black Convoy than MP49. The color scheme just doesn't fit the MP44 mold. (Of all the MP10 repaints, the only one I think actually could fit MP44's mold is that red A Bathing Ape color scheme) That said, I wouldn't put it past Takara to drop a better, possibly painted version of MP49...but I wouldn't hold my breath about it, either. Possibly akin to how Hasbro did SS31 Battle Damaged Megatron in response to the fan backlash about SS13 RotF Megatron having almost no paint (in the Studio Series line).
So my friend got his in (Lucky ass) and brought it to me to help fix his issues. So I spent about 45 minutes or so with the figure in hand, and once it was fixed man is that thing amazing. I applied all fixes, knee, painted eyes, fixed his forearm (Which was easy. Just trim a tad bit from the elbow area that folds and it will sit flush). I lubed up some joints which also meant I did it on the knees just as a test, and his knees worked flawlessly once I did that. He was in a rush as his wife called so I could not take pictures but I will be doing all the same things on mine and will document it all. But here is a list of what I did. Painted the eyes, with the Gundam marker I suggested to everyone way back. While I had the heads apart, I trimmed the nubs off the slider pieces. All heads work like official now, and he now has 3 extra pieces. Lubed the Knees and Wrists. Trimmed the waist lock white tab slightly and did a 3/4 turn on the screw (Works like a champ now) I put clear nail polish on the leg tabs (I did two small coats just to be safe) and they tab in nice and flush and hold great. I put some clear polish in the hand tabs for the guns. Two full coats, and it holds perfect now. The tabs that show on back of truck mode I trimmed down almost half way what was there. Tabs work perfect now Took the antennas one in hot water one with a hair dryer to see which worked best to straighten them out. Both methods worked, so it is up to you on which you want to do. Looked over the whole figure and removed any extra flashing or extra plastic. Slightly trimmed the back of the forearm piece little by little until it sat flush. Once this was done, it honestly was better than my official. It moved smoothed, everything lined up and locked into place with no issues. I also noticed by doing the trimming, it no longer was getting stress marks (I cleaned those all up also with a hair dryer). So my end thoughts on this. It does need a little TLC, but once it is done it is an amazing figure. The plastic feels fine honestly in hand. Just take care and it will be a great figure for years to come. Best Regards,
Thank you man!! Seems like some people are very picky on this ko, with really unrealistic expectations. I mean, for what it is, and after a few adjusments is a reaally good product, and just 1/5 of the price on the official one. Im really happy with mine!
The part sticking out should be behind the grill. So glad I told people to use this marker. It looks amazing. Sorry, but no. I just spent time working on one. There is no extra plastic. What is going on is, it was made for tolerances that had paint on it. The tabs are not as thick as they should be. Once you thicken those tabs up they hold perfectly. The clear polish will rub off in time, but it is very easy to add a fresh coat. You can do other things but I would not recommend it. Clear polish is the best way to go for a nice long life to your toy. If this was to me, you are very welcome. I loved working on the figure. Was all pretty easy at that. Best Regards,
The amount of force on mine that is pulling the panel away from where it tabs in is pretty significant. At least on mine, just making the tab thicker definitely wouldn't work. Cool that your panel sounds way more relaxed of a fit than my copy.
If that is so I am sorry. but you can trim it. As I said I went along and removed all extra plastic and flashing I could find and man did it make a huge difference on how things lined up. Might want to give that a shot. Best Regards,
Great summary @Optimus Dime! What did you use to trim the leg tabs down? A file? Is there a special tool good for plastic toys? Would be interested to know the exact places you had to file down for the arms? What’s the brand of lube recommended? I would guess WD40 is not appropriate for toys?
Exacto Knife I used for most of the trimming, as you can control where you want to trim much easier and as long as you do it lightly you are golden. But I did use a file here and there. For the arm (was only his left forearm). I will gran a picture of my official and highlight where I trimmed. WD40 will dry out fast and could make the plastic brittle, unless it is WD40's silicone spray. When using lube always try and find silicone. It is the best and safest for plastic. Here is what I used. Yes, I took the legs apart like when you go to glue them. But instead of gluing them, I lubed all areas. Any place that will have another part slide or rub together was lubed. Do not lube the ratchet pieces themselves, but everything else. Hope this information helps some. Best Regards,
Well I am aware of the knee issue and I perfectly know how it's supposed to be fixed. But that doesn't answer my question as to how you make the panels line up better for the side panel of the legs to tab in better. Seems the issue is not there after all anyway. Thank you for all the instructions, but I still don't get what part you trimmed to make that panel sit flush. Sorry about that. Seems I was right about the lack of paint and the tolerances. As they reverse engineered this, they are off. Glad you can all help us out. Please document the fixes once you get yours
That's all? Ok, I somehow thought it would be more complex. You think you will be able to document the fixes on yours to help us all out? I wanted to initially but you seem way more able than I am and the fixes on this are way too far from the official one. So I would rather follow someone's advices than try things on my own and mess up. Also how were the hips on your friend's figure?
I can do that. I am not sure when I will get mine though. It still says "2020-08-11 03:50 Shipping Label Created, USPS Awaiting Item -> A shipping label has been prepared for your item at 3:50 am on August 11, 2020. This does not indicate receipt by the USPS or the actual mailing date." But once mine is done, I will gladly take pictures of each step of what I do and share on here. Always love to help fellow collectors. But honestly, it is not hard at all as long as you take your time. As for the arm that I fixed. They seemed to make the arm panel itself straight but if you look it should be angled. So I more or less trimmed it until it lined up. Once it was lined up correctly, it shut and tabbed together no problem. I also thought it would be much harder but was just some simple plastic shaving. If you do get yours before mine, and try some fixes, please do share also. Every little bit helps people on here. Best Regards,
Yeah that tab isn't moving, fits flush into the notch in back of leg then the lower knee moves, just not hearing clicks?
The eyes were painted by markers? This. I got mp36 (IT) because, there is no other decent Megatron at that scale. I never liked the looks of it, the fact that IT improved the thing considerably didnt turn me around. Its the one figure in my display that I dont enjoy.
