Oh I would never paint without one. I just wanted to see if people were concerned about using up their mask supply (filters etc.) or not. I see across social media that Gunpla painting hasn't slowed down one bit. Personally I'd feel better about using the masks I have if I knew when resupplies of these things might resume for the general public.
Hi, out of curiousity, anyone looking to sell Robot Spirits from the original show? Want list here. Seems like this thread is mostly gunpla but thought it was worth a shot. Thanks
The fun of mixing a one and done batch of paint, and needing a second batch to finish something. I assembled most of the Hazenthley torso while accidentally chipping some of my paint in the process. So, I had to mix another pool of it in the pan, and managed to get better results than my initial mix. See the sprockets on the yellow chest piece, base of the collar, and that tiny square at the center. Since this was all I felt like doing, I put a couple extra drops of thinner on the paint and sealed the well with packaging tape to keep it covered for the night. I may just end up mixing a pipete measured jar of it so I have it on hand for the rest of this.
- TO ANYONE WITH EXPERIENCE WITH THE PERFECT GRADE RX-0 - anyone know for sure whether it is actually necessary to remove the head/neck from the body in order to convert it between modes? i've tried it several times while assembled, and i've failed to figure out how to swing the UNICORN MODE face mask assembly out far enough for sufficient clearance for the recessed CENTER HEAD/DESTROY MODE mask assembly to swing back down into it's UNICORN MODE position. indeed, i can only seem to manage the proper clearance when the head is fully removed from the torso...
Usually whenever they say "Don't need to disassemble" you have to. I had a bit of a clearance issue the one time I transformed the head, but you need to pull the Gundam face forward first before trying to fold the Normal mode face back.
actually, the problem is in swinging the UNICORN face plate down and out far enough to provide the clearance for the GUNDAM face to come down to is stowed/UNICORN position without colliding into the UNICORN face plate in the process. even with the head/neck canted fully backward, the UNICORN plate seems to hit the collar/torso, preventing it from being swung out quite far enough to allow the recessed GUNDAM mask to come down and clear it. when the head is removed from the torso, the UNICORN mask can swing right out freely, providing more than enough clearance in the bargain for the central crown/GUNDAM mask assembly to traverse it's full range of pivot downward...
You don't have to, since it's been design to be able to transform without taking things apart. Remember to also push the crest on the top of the head back as well.
I feel like I'm going to need to pick up an extra pair of these guys at some point (definitely not springing for the whole army of 40, though. 5 is good), just so I can make use of all the extra parts from the P-Bandai sets. Aside from that, I'm not a huge fan of these guys. At least, how they implemented the "Fine Build" system with them left them with some janky looking elbows. They're more solid feeling than the Leo and Death Army kits, though.
Yeah, I was all ready to collect the Maganacs, and while it's a fine kit, the design isn't amazing and it does feel more compromised by the lost cost/fine build system. Leos, though, I could have a million of those dudes, even with the minor issues. They look great and if you get even one weapon set you'll have enough accessories for six Leos.
Wait, we already got the traditional red/white one, you're saying that wasn't the regular GM Cannon? Either way, I'm not letting this pass me up. God damnit Bandai would it kill you to actually put more than two GM types - one of which you even canibalized the main gimmick of to sell as a complete P-Bandai anyway - into the Origin line? Who the hell are the Zakus supposed to fight? The non-existent Local Gundams?!
ALL GM Cannons are P.Bandai, like everything else everyone wants. ...okay, I like that blue. - I made a batch of paint for the frame's color but I just finished assembling the arms. This is just the bicep to wrist. .. I didn't realize how small some of its parts were despite how tall the Hazenthley is going to be.
The previous one was labeled "Space Assault Type" but going back to look at it this blue one looks to be just be a color swap and not the proper GM cannon that should have less thrusters and more armor.
So it's probably 'GM Cannon Test Type' and the real one gets released later, much like what happened with the Zaku Cannon.
Parts look identical. it's mostly just a pallet swap, more decals, and a new Bazooka... it's like they gave it a new hat.
I'm impressed, nice color separation save for decals/paint on the ends of the tubing, and the missing color for the rifle. Like the Gustav Karl, it's a behemoth. - The result of my paint mixing madness. I had to wick out the excess thinner in the jar, but my recipe for the Hazenthley turned out okay. It's a close enough match, although the Apple Barrel paint as the base causes it to dry to a very flat finish. When I give the completed model a full clear coat, it will level things off. As I said before I'm using the closed shoulder components from the Hrududu II expansion set, which is molded in typical gray plastic compared to the Hazenthley's rare purple frame. Even though one of these parts is molded in that original color, I painted them both so in the event my paint mix doesn't fully match the original frame color, they'll be a matching pair. I have the arms mostly complete but I'm opting not to do the detail painting until I get more of the model finished. On one hand it's a matter of once-and-done blends of paint, and the major concern is identifying just how much there is to do on the entire kit so i don't have to do the same kind of work more than twice at different intervals. Yellow vents, metallic/clear green running lights and sensors, and red details everywhere, including the finger tips.
