Customs: First time painter questions

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by MnemonicSyntax, Mar 30, 2020.

  1. MnemonicSyntax

    MnemonicSyntax Macrodata Refinement - SVR'D Access

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    Hello Radicons!

    I have an OS movie Starscream (the big one in his Red, White and Blue colors) and was interested in painting it to match his movie appearance with the grey instead. I'm trying to get him as close as this one in color.

    42182702770_e40f57dc2e_b.jpg
    Credit: Soundwaves Oblivion (www.soundwavesoblivion.com)

    Are there any tips or hints to get started? Anything I could do to make this easier? I'd like to avoid taking it apart but I realize that might not be ideal for painting.

    Thanks!
     
  2. Dachande

    Dachande MULTI-QUOTE- USE IT. Super Mod

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    Taking figures apart isn't always necessary (well, it's rare), depending on where the stock paint is.
    Stripping the paint that's there is the top priority, so 91%alcohol for that.
    If you mask everything off that shouldn't be painted and make sure it doesn't creep into the panels or joints, you should be able to paint it with sprays with minimal overspray or bleed.

    Testors has a great line of aircraft paints, which is what I used to paint a MP Starscream with the realistic F-15 patterns. Just spray your base color, then work out with the lighter edge colors.

    I would honestly look at some aircraft modeling tutorials before diving in.
     
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  3. MnemonicSyntax

    MnemonicSyntax Macrodata Refinement - SVR'D Access

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    Sweet, thanks man. So when you say sprays, you mean like a can of spraypaint?

    And the alcohol, I just rub it on there? Or should it soak?

    I greatly appreciate the help, sorry for the noob questions!
     
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  4. Dachande

    Dachande MULTI-QUOTE- USE IT. Super Mod

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    We were all noobs at one point.

    Spray cans, yes. The ones I mentioned are specifically for modeling.

    The alcohol can either be rubbed with a Magic Eraser or cotton swabs or cloth, or the pieces soaked for some time depending on how.much paint is there. That is usually a matter of testing every so often, but generally not long.
     
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  5. Grimwolf100

    Grimwolf100 Well-Known Member

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    if you have an air brush getting him done will be fairly easy. just take him apart, sand and prime and get the base grey color down and then thin out the paint of the shades on top so you can build them up and make that transition effect. if not then tape parts up and rattle can but still sand and prime
     
  6. Dachande

    Dachande MULTI-QUOTE- USE IT. Super Mod

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    If someone is a complete novice to painting, an airbrush isn't the best or most cost effective route. You can indeed get them cheap, but you get what you pay for.

    I do highly recommend how-to videos as a great way to see how this can be done. Everyone has different techniques, but figure out what works best for you and go for it.
     
  7. MnemonicSyntax

    MnemonicSyntax Macrodata Refinement - SVR'D Access

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    Any suggestions on sandpaper grit?
     
  8. Bigcuddlybastard

    Bigcuddlybastard Well-Known Member

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    I like to use 600 grit, or Magic Eraser foam works too if you search for Gundam products you can find it on a stick or easier sanding but those are more expensive
     
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  9. Dachande

    Dachande MULTI-QUOTE- USE IT. Super Mod

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    Yeah, 600 is a good mid-level sandpaper.
    Magic Erasers are pretty awesome for most paint. You're supposed to wet it with water, but I also use alcohol just for the added boost.
    Be warned that some of the plastic detailing will eat the erasers pretty quickly.
     
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  10. MnemonicSyntax

    MnemonicSyntax Macrodata Refinement - SVR'D Access

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    Thanks! Hopefully I can order some of this stuff!
     
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  11. Bigcuddlybastard

    Bigcuddlybastard Well-Known Member

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    I Actually prefer to use the melamine foam dry, it gets eaten up by the detailing but it really gets into all the corners for a very smooth finish between coats of paint. Especially if you use a melamine Gundam stick
     
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