Heavy/Scratch: TFA Marauder Megatron 3D print

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by myloschz, Feb 10, 2020.

  1. myloschz

    myloschz Well-Known Member

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    While taking pics for aiding in assembly I noticed that a screw hole was missing on the bottom half of the nose section.
    I have uploaded the corrected part here: Download free 3D printer designs TFA Marauder Megatron-Nose Bottom-FIXED ・ Cults
    Sorry about that!

    I used #2 woodworking screws and they were fine, but a bit larger diameter than I was using before. I just ordered some pointy tipped m2 screws from 6mm to 20 mm. I think that I was using these before. The longest that I think that you would need for this is 10 or 12mm.


    Here are some pics for assembly:

    -BE CAREFUL WHEN INSERTING THE KNEE PEG INTO THE THIGH, MOST OF THE FRICTION FOR THE KNEE JOINT WILL COME FROM TIGHTENING THE SCREW AT THE KNEE. (SAND THE KNEE PEG A BIT IF NEEDED)
    THERE IS AN EXTRA PIN HOLE NEAR THE BOTTOM SCREW HOLE IN THE LEG PARTS. THIS IS TO INSERT A 6MM LONG M1.5 PIN FOR ALIGNMENT IF SO DESIRED, IT IS NOT A MUST.
    image000000 (32).jpg image000000 (33).jpg image000000 (34).jpg image000000 (35).jpg image000000 (36).jpg image000000 (37).jpg image000000 (38).jpg image000000 (39).jpg image000000 (40).jpg
    THE INNER ELBOW PART (YELLOW) SHOULD BE SCREWED TO THE FORE ARM BEFORE BEING PINNED INTO THE OUTER ELBOW PART!
    image000000 (41).jpg image000000 (42).jpg image000000 (43).jpg
    tHE LONG ARM ATTACHES TO THE BACK. nOTICE THE FLAT PARTS ON THE LONG ARM AND THE NEXT ARM.
    image000000 (44).jpg
    THEN THE TWO ARMS WITH THE ARROWS GO TOGETHER. AND ATTACH TO THE SHORTEST ARM. SMOOTH SAILIN'
    image000000 (45).jpg
    THEY THEN CONNECT TO THE NOSE PIVOT THINGY, WHICH ATTACHES TO THE TOP OF THE NOSE.
    image000000 (46).jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2020
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  2. Cax6ton

    Cax6ton Insufferable Smartass

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    I quoted the prices to have them printed, less than $100 for PLA or ABS. That's surprisingly reasonable. Do you think that ABS will fine, should everything be PLA, or are there some parts you'd recommend stay PLA and the rest be done in ABS?
     
  3. transgeek2345

    transgeek2345 Well-Known Member

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    Put me on the list of people lookong to buy a mass produced version because this is absolutely flipping amazing. This is a wonderful passion project without a doubt, and it honestly is amazing to see unused prototypes be created through the use of 3D printers.

    I can't wait to see Transtech figures and the like in the near future from other passionate creators
     
  4. BLOODRAGED189

    BLOODRAGED189 In it for the engineering

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    I always thought it would be badass to have a line of unreleased figures, keep up the amazing work!
     
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  5. Agamus

    Agamus Not an Iguana

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    This thing looks like a piece of my childhood I never had. Wow.

    Also can't help but think of this quote: "Two fusion cannons. Look at yourself."
     
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  6. MegaMoonMan

    MegaMoonMan OFFICIAL MMM REP

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    Thanks for the assembly pics. I've currently got all the red parts printed and am working my way into the grays. I'm doing the whole thing in PLA, we'll see how that goes. I've got pins and screws on order as well, just need to grab a 1.5mm drill bit to clean out those pin holes.

    At first I was wary of having to use screws and pins for assembly, but now I see they are probably the easiest way to get a solid result that can be "tuned" if need be.

    Another note - I've had to edit most of the parts to print in different positions and had to remove the little blocks that made them print a certain way. Any reason you chose to do it like that? Some of the parts would need more plastic for support than the actual part in the default positions. There aren't a whole lot of flat faces on the parts but I laid what I could on the print bed (as long as the new orientation still allowed good quality and structural integrity).

    Once it is done, I'll be adding screw hole covers. It's too nice of a design to be marred by holes. I'll probably give it a good sanding and try to gloss it up as well.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2020
  7. setsuna

    setsuna Well-Known Member

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    is that blender youre using?
     
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  8. MegaMoonMan

    MegaMoonMan OFFICIAL MMM REP

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    Getting there, slowly but surely. The head came out awesome, I can't believe how well it printed (and was modeled).
    IMG_20200221_184101729.jpg

    Big bag o' parts:
    IMG_20200221_184752946.jpg

    This is about 30 hours of printer time and I haven't even started the big parts yet.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2020
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  9. waffel

    waffel Well-Known Member

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    You're ahead of me, man those are some crisp looking components though. I can't wait to get my copy printing
     
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  10. Megascream

    Megascream bow before your new master

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    I'm 50% done with printing this guy.
     
  11. MegaMoonMan

    MegaMoonMan OFFICIAL MMM REP

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    Just got the shins and the big guns left to do, and still waiting on screws to arrive, but I'm in the home stretch. My printer ran about 40 hours over the past 48 hours.

    I had to change the orientation on some of the parts - it created some interesting patterns on some of the surfaces. Looks kinda like plate armor, I dig it.

    After getting mine done I may be up for making more copies, but they won't be cheap nor will they be made quickly. This has literally been the only thing I've done for the past week, my wife is starting to lose it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2020
  12. Megascream

    Megascream bow before your new master

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    well i guess this project is at a halt for me because of my teacher. He said i left the 3d printer on for the weekend and is saying i'll "take a break" from it. i don't know when I'll be able to print again.
     
  13. maxlovesamber

    maxlovesamber TF Addict.

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    So I apologize if this has been asked but I didn't see it in the previous pages or download page's info. What's the minimum plate size needed to print the biggest part here? I'm going to be ordering a 3D printer for myself finally and while I think the one i'm going to order will suffice, would like to be sure unless I need to rescale the project down to a smaller size but that would have its' own issues.
     
  14. MegaMoonMan

    MegaMoonMan OFFICIAL MMM REP

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    Due to how the parts print, none of them take up much bed space. A lot of them are grouped together but I split them apart in software and do them one by one. My printer is 200x200 and I haven't even come close to using the whole bed.

    A little amputee porn:
    IMG_20200224_161734974.jpg
     
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  15. maxlovesamber

    maxlovesamber TF Addict.

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    Thanks for the info. The printer I'm going to be getting is unfortunately only 100^3 so this may be tricky for me lol. I suppose I could cut the bigger parts in half and just glue them :p 
     
  16. MegaMoonMan

    MegaMoonMan OFFICIAL MMM REP

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    I think you'll be fine, I didn't even use up half the bed for the biggest part (it was probably the forearms laying flat).
     
  17. maxlovesamber

    maxlovesamber TF Addict.

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    Sweet! Thank you. That actually makes my whole day!
     
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  18. Demonss

    Demonss Well-Known Member

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    Wow.. Just wow.. I'm floored with these designs!
     
  19. waffel

    waffel Well-Known Member

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    What dark grey filament are you using there? I can't find a decent dark grey so was considering just using black, but that colour looks really solid
     
  20. MegaMoonMan

    MegaMoonMan OFFICIAL MMM REP

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    Can't remember the brand offhand but the color is called "graphite gray".

    I've been having a tough time getting the big guns to print on end, they keep failing. I've had to resort to laying them down and cutting off the inner attachments, I will just glue the two halves together. I only have one left to print, and I'm still waiting for screws. Should be project done tomorrow hopefully.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2020