Some of those smaller pieces are quite hard to switch around. I kind of like the blue pieces better just because he's so good at martial arts posing. Will eventually get the other kit so I can mix and match with the non-flamey pieces.
Tell you what, let me do a revised version of this with the GM White Dingo and their hands and you can share it for me. Technically we're both right. We say GM, They say Jim. either way, It had to be done! - Starting on the final (for now) GM frame, the Version 2.0 original type itself. Quick Panel Accent run on the silver face as I did the CDT, only done better. Here I go again! as you can see, no manual! next time I might do this blindfolded. In the meanwhile, Finished the mod I started last night. Taking the spare nozzle plate from the the Cold District Type and setting in the big thrusters from the Powered.
You got it! What do you want the title to be? EDIT: Also, anybody who has built Figurise Ayame, is there really a difference between using the waterslide eyes over the stickers? I intend to use the eyes that don't have eyelashes since painting those is better regardless and I've already got two Super Fuminas, Hyper Gyanko, and Chinaguy under my belt.
I already called it the JIMYU FORCE!! GM TOKUSENTAI!! The last member is under construction now, but this is where I'm stopping for the night. Steady progress, but I didn't feel like boring out piston sleeves tonight. I built the shoulder joints in reverse this time around, it was easier to snap the parts together this way than having to deal with the flimsy piston parts since these have a tighter fit from being made with the older, more rigid ABS . Which is kind of curious, since I got the Hazels with the swapped ABS to PS plastic frame parts, and all of the later GM variants use PS plastic, but since the White Dingo and Powered are based on older kits still use the older thicker ABS even though they were made in recent years since Bandai made this material transition. Back to what's on the bench, I figured I would also attach the shoulder armor's frame too since it's supposed to fit on the shoulder post and it's not hard to work around either. I've enjoyed this speed run through the variations of the Version 2.0 frames, but its original form is still very solid, and one of its key details that sets it apart from the older GM kits is coming up in the torso.. more on that later.
i dunno about that particular kit, but painting the lashes, as well as the lips, on my DIVERS M.D. Sarah makes all the difference;
Yeah, just re-read the instructions about the face - the water slides are the ONLY ones that come without the eyelashes, meaning they can be applied onto the eye piece that slots behind the face. That's how I prefer to do them as it gives the depth in the eyes that looks more natural (and better than the stupid transparent plastic on the original gunpla girls, the ones on my first Fumina fell out and I honestly couldn't tell much of a difference so I left those off on my other three). There's like, eight eye pieces though so are they freely interchangeable with the faces? The instructions state you can build two complete heads and I think there's enough decals for all of the eye pieces. Been a while since I last applied waterslides, admittedly, but I'll break out the microsol and probably tackle her either later today or sometime next week since she won't require blacklining.
i just trimmed and applied the eye stickers to the inner plate, before final head-assembly, same as you describe. the Sarah actually came with self-adhesive stickers only, but, as you can see, they ended up going on about as perfectly as one could hope for, resulting in a pretty close to dead-on final product...
LOVE that kit, it's one of my favorites for posing over & over again. I keep meaning to buy a 2nd one so I can have both forms on display, maybe this year... Since I'm still waiting on my G40 from amiami (I decided to see how long SAL shipping would take to California, that was a month ago) I started work on a Christmas present from my boss: I've never tried out the Full Mechanics line, so this is an excellent gift! I'm going to actually paint on many of the frame's details, though I'll probably leave things like working pistons alone (paint chips are one of my biggest peeves.) As you can see here, without paint your robots are just defenseless hunks of plastic!
The trick about painting your Pistons is making sure that the sleeves are not binding and chewing into the paint. That's why I have my sets of diamond rotary bits, they're not as risky as using a drill bit which could risk pitching off or biting into the sides or drilling all the way through. Granted it's the most time-consuming part of building these version 2.0 frames but the results speak for themselves. EDIT! pics for reference! Link for Bits: Diamond Point Rotary Grinding Set 10 Pc. Loose enough to slide.
Here's the thing: that's not me who posted it. Nor is that me who that guy is saying is me. As proof, here's the time I posted SPLIT's Neo Zeon Barzam on reddit - note my username: Neo Zeon Barzam - Its creator doesn't think it's good enough to be in this subreddit. I disagree so I'm posting it for him. : Gunpla
Taking a break from working on MG Dynames since I was sick (getting better after visiting the doc yesterday), just need to finish the legs and all the guns and shields. The back of that GN Drive keeps collapsing so I order some green LED unit from hobbysearch for it, plus two more sets for MG Kyrios and Virtue (possibly). Also couldn't let that orange paint for haro go to waste and painted the missiles as well.
Thanks for the tip, Hadlen. One of the main torso pistons is already plenty loose even with the paint (I'm practically drybrushing Mr. Color,) so I'll see how it goes with the other one. Still lots to add to the frame, but so far I'm having fun with it. Still, I can't help but think I've seen this body type somewhere before...
Finishing the last GM frame. While it seems flimsy and delicate, this is one of my favorite moving frame designs ever. Building the shoulder joints in reverse order from the shoulder post and ending with the sliding piston inside the torso itself was much easier than doing the complex joints first and then trying to ram the shoulder post in place. Now for the part that really seperates all of the earlier Rx-78 and GM models and the Version 2.0 standard. The swiveling spine and rib cage that allows a Core Fighter/Block to be kept out and on display and still keep the torso and waist together for a Complete Suit, rather than being soley dependent on the Core Block to keep the body together. There's also the dynamic feature of the linked together chest vents that open and close uniformly. Of course the Core Block is mostly finished at this point but I'll make some improvements on the details later and definitely clean up the sloppy errors. Now this completes the fifth Version 2.0 frame, appropriately its original form in contrast to the later variants. I wound up painting around the silver face sensors to blot out my previous layer of enamel. Line 'em up! And now we get to see what changes were made between the original and the majority of later variations. Now I just need to concentrate on their hands.. for all six of them... oh the things I set myself up for. This was fun though. Never have I successfully marathon built one frame type like this in the span of time I did it in.
Put Barbie in front of the backdrop, I really like how this shot turned out: Apparently I was posting too much Barbatos in the Gunpla subreddit for a single day, as my post got reported as spam and deleted. So now I'm posting here
Oh hey, my G40 (which has apparently been in New Mexico since Saturday morning) now has no scheduled delivery date. That's probably good.
