How soon should we expect to see KO's of SS38? i already own one and have been considering getting a second to customize, but to be honest IDK if im going to be comfortable hacking and tinkering with the authentic considering the price tag ($30+ for SS38 vs a KO that could be 1/2 the price?) I would rather it be on a KO than to work on an authentic one in case I end up destroying it lol

 

I'd love an MPM Ironhide, but I'm waiting for a KO that fixes all his issues, like LT02 fixing all of MPM Primes issues

I'm sure BMB will make one soon, seeing how they have an OSKO SS18.

 

Yes, there is the WJ OS blackout that scales well as does their hound, there is the BM OS SS05 Optimus Prime that comes closer (19 cm while optimus should be 22) but their OS Voyager TLK Optimus scales beautifully

 

10 years ago we never thought of Transformers toys being so accurate. Can y'all imagine what these toys are gonna look like another 10 years from now?

 

I have no idea but I’m super excited! You’ll probably be able to download your own figures and print them at home and they’ll be super accurate no matter how complex the design is.

 

Lol they'll probably be able to transform themselves

 

Shipping to Germany from Amazon.com each figure was still 5€ cheaper than in Germany...

I love those constructions and if you think outside the box Rampage (or Bonecrusher as I like to call him) has 180° elbow articulation

and I would not recommend cutting his arms off and gluing them to the other side for elbows as it ruins foot mode in my opinion

 

I hope they don't shrink any smaller. Prices may go higher for more complex figures but they shouldn't make deluxes any smaller than studio series beetlebee.

 

The smaller the figure the less complex it can be.
So don't worry. Your complex figures can't get super small.

Besides I wonder why so many people dislike smaller deluxe figures. I think it must be more about the money.
But then again I always preferred Lego to Duplo  

Small complex figures are awesome IMO! More space in your room. Less ratchet joints that always seem to give you that one click less than what you would've needed haha

And there's gravity. Large figures are so hard to stand up in dynamic poses

 

If ROTF of 10 years past is any indication, we’d advance so far in engineering we’ll have mini ILM models that transform the exact same way as they do in the movies. Imagine mass shifting Lockdown and quadruple changing Mixmaster, oh man..

 

Funny thing is, LT02 is more of a sidegrade to MPM4 to me personally. (my copy)

Sure, it has this glossy coat of silver paint compared to (dank gunmetal) unpainted dull grey of Hasboi but there are a ton of issues.

• His fingers are notably more loose than the original. One might be able to resolve it with a dryer or something I guess.
  
• Paint was too thick around a couple of parts like the bottom tab that connect the 2 halves of of the bumper, that I had to chop off a little so they actually tab in. Also I had to go hell and back to finally get that left smokestack tabbed in snugly into the cab. Only managed to have the 2 stacks symmetrical like they should be after like what, a year after having the thing.
• For some reason I find him more fiddly to manipulate in robot mode than MPM4. Probably subjective, maybe because he's heavier. Also in robot mode the smoke stacks are more loose when tucked in. MPM4 doesn't have this problem.
• Also it was stupidly easy to break the gun trying to remove it from the back storage... MPM4 took a foot kicking into it and it was easy enough to take the piece out and glue things back in.

Still, the locking tab for the smokestacks was pure genius though. Most functional truck so far would be Black Mamba... but the size of that thing scares me.

As for Ironhide, same with Hasbro Prime I just tried to dance around the issues with a bottle of superglue and a hobby knife:

• Right shoulder was so loose that his arm would literally break apart from the rest of the toy. Superglue solved that stuff nicely enough since I don't have proper soldering tools for that.
• As for the shoulders, someone mentioned that putting the them in a way would make the armpit wheels to click in a bit, softlocking the shoulders into a position so that lightly holding them would be enough to manipulate the arms without moving things around. The infamous female tabs are starting to get loose, I think. He ends up looking gappy. though.
  
• Forearm tabs: chopped them off a bit so that they mostly stay in or somewhat click in as opposed to just outright refusing to tab in. Results were inconclusive though.

So all and all I think have my standards set low.

 

Well, I guess we better save our money!

 

3D printed Transformers sound awesome!!

I’d like an option where we can choose the size of our figures. S, M, and L. S for Studio Series, M for ROTF, and L for MPM. At a slight premium we’d put an end to the people whining about Transformers being too small or not having characters in the right scale... like me  

 

I have been late to the party in really getting into movieverse figures. I've got quite a few but haven't connected with them like other TF series figs. But lately I've been enjoying the Studio Series deluxes (the more obscure ones tend to be my favourites Shadow Raider and WW2 Bumblebee) and today I finally added Stinger to my collection. Love this figure. Incredible aesthetic. I've got him configured in bot mode the way I really like him. I'm not sure if it isn't completely accurate to how he should be but this is how he is going to be for me.

 

Crowbar owners, would you guys recommend cutting his dreadlocks off?

 

I don't recommend cutting them off, but if you want to remove them here's the best way to do it:

1. Unscrew the two screws on Crowbar's back.

2. Remove the panel that makes up his upper back. The three dreadlock parts are attached to this panel.

3. Boil a kettle of water. When the water is boiled pour it into a mug or a small bowl. If you are a younger fan, it's best to get somebody older to help you when dealing with boiling water.

4. Dunk Crowbar's back panel into the hot water, holding it by the ends of the dreadlocks. You will only need to hold the piece in the hot water for a short time, only ten seconds or so, before the hot water softens the plastic dreadlocks and they will straighten out.
The plastic isn't melting, so don't worry, the heat is returning it to it's original molded shape.

5. When the dreadlocks are soft, remove Crowbar's back panel from the water and shake off any hot water.

6. Pull the dreadlocks out from Crowbar's back. Because they have been softened they will pull out easily without tearing or damaging your toy. When they cool back to room temperature the dreadlocks will harden back to how they felt before you dipped them in hot water.

7. Dry off Crowbar's back panel and screw it back onto the toy.

All done! Your Crowbar is now clean shaven.

~L~

 

"Did you do it?"
"Yes"
"What did it cost?"
"Bumblebee's ability to transform"

 

Is the fan Quadruple changing avalibe for one person Mixmaster is ok for u

 

Yokohama Doll Museum have a load of figures on display for Transformers' 35th Anniversary, including fantastic dioramas for all six live-action films.

Check out all 123 images here: 『「親子で楽しむ」トランスフォーマー35周年展』＠横浜人形の家 | Facebook