Neat. I looked at it on Dalong's page again.. of all the Star Wars kits I'm actually interested in, I didn't look at Grievous much before now. Even the Battle Droids use the RG gate system.. wow. the surprises of what Bandai does with Non-Gunpla models, like how they're doing that "printed face" detailing on the unmasked character models. Post any pics in the Star Wars toy thread yet, otherwise, put him next to G-Saviour and let's see them side by side. It's an obviously perfect comparison, skeletonized machines with beam weaponry and all! - Happy to help, you won't be disappointed. I'm actually able to get away with the "Cardinal Sin" of using nippers close to the part surface with my Godhand, never could do that with my Tamiya nippers which I mostly use for cutting down runners (cut off the outer gates, or trim away empty sections). However.. I don't cut them that close on the first trim. I snip them off the runners with good seperation from the main gate to the part surface, and then literally angle the blade so it cuts UPWARD from the surface of the part so it creates a more gentle, flat slope that I can shave off and sand down. Anyway, I was moving some stuff around in my deep storage backlog and got clocked in the head by the Master Grade Amazing Red Warrior.. I guess it's the kit's way of saying FINISH ME ALREADY!!! ..I've only had it.... F*** four years?! .... Christmukkah 2015. Arms and Legs have been built for a year, head is almost finished.. Meijin figures are long since painted. but my two hold ups on it were the bogus bend in the head crest, which I fixed with some coffee pot boiled water and my desk vice. And then my last successful replacement part call to a US store to replace the articulating 'tendon' plate that connects the thigh to the knee. Tonight though I committed to finishing the Hyper Bazooka and started working on the Gunblades. I'm letting the sword blades dry overnight after spraying them with some of my Rustoleum Metallic Silver. They're metallic injection but there's an annoying mark on them that I wanted to go away and so, painted.
You might, and this is a big might, be able to retain the shine with a polished gloss coat. Its not a technique I'm particularly interested in, so I only vaguely understand the concept and not the details from passing mentions. Basically, you apply gloss coat(s) and use buffing compounds to polish like you would a car. You could try looking into it and maybe test on some scrap.
I'm going to pick up some gloss coat this week and test. The mobile haro came with an extra thruster, so I'll be messing with that.
I'll dig around, cuz I'm pretty sure there was a big Molotow thread in the customs section - but I think the consensus was Alclad Klear Kote was your best chance of not dulling the chrome. Most other clears, even Future, tend to dull the finish.
I plan on having a picture day once all my kits are complete, but that's a good idea! Grievous can give G-Saviour tips on self-image.
Silver paint dried on the Gunblades okay, but the glaring nub mark and sanding scars were still visible. So, I brushed on some of my "Bungles Silver" which I was already using on this kit in a few places instead of standard silver enamel. It dries on smoothly and will look even better with a second coat.
dumb question...can the action base 2 stand be used with MG kits? Not really gonna do flying/action poses, just need the action base 2 to support the figures while standing.
It depends on how much weight you're putting on it and the means of suspension. Don't forget how many 1:100 scale kits used to come with Action Base 2's to support weapons.
I'll mostly use it on Endless Waltz kits but I do have two back heavy MG kits that I'll use those on as well (XN Raiser and Hazel-Rah Second Form)
Appreciate the help. Didn't know there would be a huge issue clearing it with a gloss top coat lol. Finicky stuff, but it does look great.
Sounds about right, although didn't G-Parts for the Hazel come with the variant Action Base? I have an Action Base 4 set aside for my XN-12 Sword G.
Here's the thread if you want to look over things yourself: Customs: - MOLOTOW LIQUID CHROME MARKERS TRIAL My takeaway is: Once the paint has set up for a few weeks, it can take minor handling. If clear is required for a heavy-handling area, though: 1) Alclad Klear Koat is the preferred clear with little-to-no degradation of the shine. 2) One video shows Spectracolor Clear to work as a clear coat as well. 3) Future/Pledge Floor Finish works in a pinch. It does dull the shine some, but not to the terrible metal-flake of other acetone-based clears. 4) Airbrush is the preferred clear application method. If you *must* brush, use a quality natural bristle brush, and saturate with plenty of clear so you're not leaving brush strokes. Most brushes will scratch the chrome and dull the finish.
It did but it occupies a lot of space in my shelf so I'm gonna change it to a smaller stand. Man, I still need to get myself a 7S/G to complete my XN-12S/G.
Can always substitute the missing weapons. I found through AmyShopCN on Ebay a 1:100 scale Mace! Metal Weapon Hammer Spear Silver color for Bandai TV 1/100 MG Barbatos Gundam 713653940288 | eBay Yeah, I'm a few years behind schedule on that one.. I built the Gundam's handheld weapons and took a break from it right as I started on the O-Raiser. I'll get back to it eventually.
No, I meant the hands (it has its rifle-thing and long sword). When I finished assembling Barbatos so many months ago, I displayed it with its "palms-open" hands and put the rest of the pieces (including the closed hands for holding its weapons) in the box.
Oooooh. I didn't understand what you meant, I was expecting you didn't know where the weapons were. But I still recommend the mace, unless you have a 1:100 form 6 kit.
