Yes everything. I got those parts months ago already.

 

Cool. PM me the price and your paypal again lol
Not sure if you'll be at TFCon next week, but picking them up there is an option too, if you are.

 

PM'd.

I work 7 days a week. How else I can afford MP BW full cast lol

 

My Dinobot's shoulder JUST ceased when I lifted the arm and it wont go down. Both shoulders were perfect and I transformed the figure 3 times. Is there any precedent of good shoulders becoming like the bad shoulders? It's the toy's left shoulder as well. I'm pretty sure that's the bad one. Any help or advice? I'd love to not break this toy.

 

Did you apply any lubricant?

 

no the figure was pristine and perfect until all of a sudden the shoulder stopped in an up position. I am extremely scared to use lube on a toy. I don't like adding things to toys.... but if you have a suggestion I'd take it. My shaver comes with some pasty lube in one of the shaving heads that i could use a toothpick and salvage some lube from there. and I have some WD40.

 

Isn't there lube for toys specifically?

 

Suuuper late into the Dinobot party but I finally got mine  





This might be the first MP I buy a second copy of, it's just. too. good.

 

Never too late to be adopted by Dinonot!

 

Ooh that sucks dude!
I think there's been multiple reports of people who's shoulder tab became dislodged after handling the toy for a while.
First order of business would probably be to take the joint apart or to see if you can guide the tab back into its slot (assuming the tab hasn't sheared off).

If you can do this successfully your toy should be saved. I would add an e-clip and apply some silicone lubricant to the joint to prevent the issue from occurring again.

I haven't had any issues with my figure so I'm just going off of what others have written in this thread.

Perhaps you could take a picture of his arm pit to see what the state of the join is?

 

Not sure. I live in Korea and I’m not too familiar with toyshops. Because toy shops are actually rather rare here unfortunately. I’ll just have to do some research I guess. Or never transform my toy again

My tab is still in the correct position. It doesn't look like a bad shoulder. yet. I saw the nub flex when i tried to move the shoulder so i stopped. I'll need to see how to take it apart. I might be competent enough to do that.

 

If the tab is still in its slot, then that is very good news. I do believe there is a second tab as well that isn't visible in robot mode.
To take the joint apart I believe you need to remove a pin which is a bit of a pain. Perhaps you can partially transform the figure (being careful not to move the shoulder joint). to see whether there are any issues with the other tab.

Hopefully someone that has some experience with this can chime in.

Here in Japan, guys like Wotafa use Silicone Maintenance Spray by brands like Tokyo Marui seems to be used a lot to loosen up joints.
I just scored a can myself the other day and used it on my Car Robots Wildrider and MP Dinobot.

I've seen it being sold at R/C hobby shops and model gun stores.
Here's a link to Amazon Japan: https://www.amazon.co.jp/東京マルイ-TOKYO-MARUI-H9107G-シリコンメンテナンススプレー/dp/B0014YL2YE

 

Just so I can have some relief: you think that this spray will not make the pain peel or corrode, and the plastic will not deteriorate, and this lube will more than likely completely fix my problem? I'm not asking for a guarantee cause you're not a salesman haha. Just hoping you know more than if you had just google searched this. I'm nervous to add stuff to my toys.

Oh I just remembered I have the Star Saber Upgrade Kit from KFC. It came with a little pouch of solvent or lube for the springs in the hips. Wonder if that would work.

 

That's how I understand it, yes.
It's specifically made and used for plastic models (guns, R/C cars, figures etc)
Like I mentioned, I've used in on my own MP Dinobot as well  
If you're apprehensive, you can ask me what my figure looks like in a few weeks before trying it yourself.

The KFC stuff sounds like it would work as well.

Remember though, that there's still the chance that the other tab slipped out of its slot. Make sure there isn't an issue there before trying to move the joint again.

 

Thank you kindly for the input. I watched this thread for the few months after Dinobot came out and read everyone's problems. I sympathized with them but felt happy that mine was not affected. Strange feeling now that mine is crappy as well. I really hope my Shadow Panther's shoulder doesn't break soon too. That would sour me on BW quite a lot and I love them.

I'll update after I try something. Thanks again.

 

@HolyCulture , yeah man check and see if there’s a hobby lobby or something like that in your area . The R/C shock oil works well. Also , once lubed up , you wanna compress that joint as much as possible while also being able to wedge a piece plastic in that joint . I heard a lot of folks mention they just cut some of the plastic the figure came in to wedge that joint nice and tight .

 

There are actually 2 tabs. Check under the shoulder to see if the other tab is in place. What may have happened to yours is that 1 tab may have been in the slot while the other one wasn't. That's kind of what happened to mine.

The RC Shock oil was 70 weight. What you want to do is get a toothpick and dip just a tiny amount between the ratchet teeth. Then cut a small piece of plastic(like from a sandwich bag tab), press the ratchet joints together(make sure the tabs on both sides are in their slots) by using the innermost shoulder joint(which attaches to the body), and place the thin plastic between the back shoulder ratchet and the shoulder guard.

 

Just got cheetor... Figured he would make a nice play thing for dinobot.

Primal is unimpressed.

 

What mode should Dinobot be in when inserting the plastic or e-clip?

 

You have better access in robot mode. Otherwise, it doesn't matter. The ratcheting collar doesn't have a defined "robot mode" and "dino mode" position. It just does the usual ratchet gear thing of sliding in-and-out slightly as you rotate the joint. The E-clip/spacer just prevents the gear from sliding too far out, where it may pop free of its guide slots.