After popping out many hinge pins on TF's for various custom mods and other reasons, I experimented and came up with a mod to remove the metal pins from the equation entirely and convert TF hinges into removable "clip" hinges that can be pulled off very quickly but easily reinstalled and still function as originally designed. I've since used this mod on a wide range of applications, primarily to open up new fan mode options as well as easier parts removal and reinstallation for painting. The key to this version of the mod (I've used styrene rod to pull this off before as well) is the use of Bondic, which is a liquid plastic welding substance that instantly hardens when exposed to UV light (watch a demo video of it here first before trying this mod!

). While it's usually meant to form a weld-type bead between 2 pieces of plastic, it's properties are incredibly ideal for many types of projects. In addition to this mod, I also use it to make tabs and clips for TF armor pieces and weapons, fill in unwanted holes and gaps in figures, detail work... it's really great, with only minor drawbacks (which I'll get to later).

For this demonstration, I'll be using the mod to re-position the entire front end hood assembly for Combiner Wars Prowl, a mod inspired by 38RPM on the TFW2005 boards when he re-pinned the hood on a CW Smokescreen:
Combiner Wars Appreciation Thread

The Clip Hinge mod makes it possible to easily move the hood back and forth from this fan mode into it's original factory position to allow for transformation.

Step 1: Remove Prowl's stock chest plate (no pin was used on this piece, so it just pulls off easily).


Step 2: Pop the pin (use whatever method you prefer, I use an auto pin punch) behind Prowl's head. This will free up both the hood assembly and the plate that Prowl's head is connected to.





Step 3: Now comes the Bondic. I highly recommend watching videos on how to use Bondic on Youtube. It's super easy to use, but it helps a ton to be accustomed to its viscosity and how it comes out of the tube. If you don't know what you're doing, it can get messy quick, but since it's NOT a glue, you can just wipe it off and reapply it if needed. The idea in this step is to use the Bondic to create "clip nubs" that will fit into the now hollow holes left after the metal pin was removed. This usually requires 3 passes with the Bondic. The first application of it is meant to just cover the pin hole with a thin glaze of Bondic to form a flat surface over the hole (do not fill the entire cavity with Bondic!). The next 2 or 3 applications of Bondic will be to start building up the clip nub so that it's "just" deep enough to grab and connect to reform the original hinge assembly. For this fan mode, you'll need to create clip nubs over both the hood assembly hinge holes and the hinge holes behind Prowl's head (see pics).





Step 4: Reconnect the hinge behind Prowl's head back into it's original position as shown below. The hinge is now fully functional without the metal pin in place, and can be easily removed and reinstalled if needed.



Step 5: Connect the hood to the hinge on the front of Prowl's head plate using the newly created clip nubs



... as you can see, it can be removed quickly and easily as needed:


Step 6: BASK IN CW PROWL'S NEW G1'ish GLORY!!


Again, the idea is that now, the hood can be moved around quickly with no pin popping required, and all the hinges function and hold securely as originally designed. You can see below that alt modes are not affected at all:



SO, that's it! Keep in mind that this can work on any pinned hinge assembly, but obviously you wouldn't want to try this on a hinge that is meant to hold heavy parts together. I've used this mod on the CW jets to make their cockpit sections easily removable for repainting, move Dead End's hood to a G1 style position, etc etc. The ability to just clip things together instead of dealing with metal pin removal opens a lot of doors, so go wild with the applications and see what you can use it for!

NOTE: About Bondic... despite its strength once it's been hardened by the UV light, it is NOT an adhesive. What may happen is that you create your clip nub with Bondic, only to have them pop out when you try reassembling your hinge. The easy fix to make the clip nubs hold fast is to put down a thin layer of super glue, then refit your clip nub on top of it. Bondic and super glue work well together, and the nub will hold strong after it's glued down. Added bonus is that if you ever want to reinstall the metal pin (not sure why, maybe to sell your bot?), you should still be able to pop the Bondic nub off with some force to free up the hinge hole for the pin installation. No fuss no muss.

Sorry this isn't a video, but I don't have a stand to hold my camera for filming, so this write up is the best I can do for now. Looking forward to other folks coming up with ways to use this mod! =)

 

Nice tutorial, not sure the hood front works on this version of Prowl but still neat it can be done.

 

Yeah, Prowl has a pretty bulky hood, so mileage varies aesthetically. Works a bit better on Dead End and his slimmer hood. I used Prowl mostly just as a "how to" example for the mod, but still kinda like the G1 vibe it gives off. =)

 

The Deadend is giving off a Omnibot Overdrive vibe no? In any case, thanks for posting this man!

 

He looks like Jazz a bit.

 

awesome! Thanks for posting this mate!!!

 

This is an excellent idea and tutorial. Nice work!

 

Awesome job. In all honesty, they look like they've been collecting welfare and watching too tv. Prowl, time to do a few crunches.
Very nice idea. I like it

 

as always with awesome stuff, like FUSION paint cans...
i prolly cant get them here in Netherlands   would like to try Bondic myself !!

 

Seeing Dead-End like that makes me wish they'd repainted that version into Jazz instead of the Streetwise version into Prowl.

 

Very interesting. I'm always interested in adding new tools to my customizing skill set. Is this link pretty much everything I would need?

https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Anything-Waterproof-Resistant-Plastic/dp/B00QU5M4MG

Also, this should be added to the tutorials section

 

Yup, that's the stuff. You might want to consider picking up an extra refill tube with it as well. One tube lasts pretty long when you get used to it, but the extra refill is good to have around while you're in the experimental phase. =)

 

Thanks, I watched the video and saved this thread as a PDF for future toy mod ref! Will come in handy when I get into trouble doing my repaint and break something or want to remove/add something.

Cool!

 

*cough* FOC Jazz custom *cough*

 

Definitely gives that Override vibe. Or, maybe you can Punch/Counterpunch like the Classics figure... flip the car hood and head for one mode... stock config for the other.

That said... this setup would also work nicely for making Sunstreaker's brother, Sideswipe. Granted, you'd have to repaint a Sunstreaker mold red, but the idea would work.

 

Oh very clever. I have a UV-STL printer, so I often use a laser pointer and spare resin to do part repairs and bonding...and the Bondic seemed like a poor-man's cousin of the technology, so I never tried it out. This application is exciting enough though that I want to add this to my tool kit. Great creativity here.

 

Oh Dude, this is so cool.
Thanks for posting this great idea and tutorial!!  

 

Bondic just barely works and can be pretty frustrating, so I'm currently looking for an alternative that is easy to get and works better (especially in terms of actually bonding to plastic, which bondic sucks at).

 

What kind of pin punch do you use?

 

Here you go:
Lisle 30280 Automatic Center Punch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HTAH70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ErxIybCFWTGK1