Thanks  


Unlikely tho.

 

I'm feeling that way too, I only want him for completions sake, as I don't think it's a good interpretation of the character without buying a third party add on, and I'm not a huge fan of this mould as bliztwing. Although I know I will get him if I ever see him 

 

I have KFC Doubledeck arriving from BBTS tomorrow but only want the cassettes, so I'm selling the rest of him (Doubledeck, non-cassette accessories & packaging.) I'm looking for £70 shipped. I paid about £130 including VAT and shipping. If anyone is interest or wants to make an offer, please pm me.

I also have a new and unopened Botcon 2015 Megatron if anyone wants to make me an offer.

Anyone interested in a complete set of Combiner Wars Superion (Silverbolt, Fireflight, Airraid, Skydive, Alpha Bravo, Powerglide and Slingshot)? All new in unopened packaging.

I'm reluctant to sell through eBay these days after someone tried to rip me off.

 

Finally found a CW Prowl at UK retail for £13. The quest is complete. Perfect 10.

 

I don't think the idea is to go in the order of the flag colours, just simply be 3 drinks in the 3 colours of the flag.

Though I did have to double check with the owner of the bar, for the same reason of thinking it should be in order.

Yeah, I think he's become more desirable simply for him not being available as easily.

Bloody thing!!!

 

Has anyone got a video or set of instructions for absolute dummies like me regarding how to use the soldering iron on Gundog's pin (when people say "a few seconds" I need to know if it's 5 seconds? 20? 35?) to prevent the snapping shoulder plastic?

Many kind thanks in advance, all the best
Maz

 

*Looks through the window at the lamppost swaying in the wind*
Nope, no way am I traipsing to Leeds or Manchestie TRU on the off chance today.

Congrats, MT!

Wait, this Prowl obsession...does that mean YOU are the Big Bad in Sins of the Wreckers?!  

 

Ambitron's probably the best placed to answer this, but I'll be doing the same to mine today.
As soldering irons often vary in their heat output (rated Wattage, and width of soldering tip), specifying an exact time wouldn't be always correct for everyone. I use a 25W iron with a broad rounded tip for this type of work.
The best thing is to apply the iron for about 5 seconds, and then remove it and "feel" the joint to see if it's easing. If not, apply for a further 5 seconds, then check again. Underheating and having to repeat apply is infinitely better than overheating and distorting the plastic.
These kinds of rivets are commonplace on many transformers. If you're a bit unsure, try out the technique on a junker first.

 

I'm just the Big Bad full stop.

Maz - I used the tip of a heated Philips screwdriver (soldering ion is long kaput in my place) for as long as it retained any heat (about 10/12 seconds a time) and it needed about 4 goes each side to be noticeable. And it worked. Good luck with it.

 

I got the blues  

Now with more wing mirrors!

flying by stevil 33, on Flickr

PB282580 by stevil 33, on Flickr

PB282582 by stevil 33, on Flickr

PB282588 by stevil 33, on Flickr

PB282589 by stevil 33, on Flickr

PB282592 by stevil 33, on Flickr

 

80's cars are cooool!
 

 

unopened £40 all in if anyone wants it

 

Couldn't agree more!!
Love these two..............and the Countach(but hes not blue).

 

So pretty much if you bought toy version my hound, if you don't have a soldering ironor do a fix, your toys will break?

And how is this acceptable to anyone?

 

Because we are all just idiots. Right?

 

TW Constructicons come with lube

Maketoys Gundog should come with a soldering iron

Dammit.

 

Speaking of idiots, this one sat here has finally pulled his finger out and had a sales sort out, finally putting up a couple of TFs I've meant to list for a while:

Galaxy Force GC-01 Galaxy Convoy

Galaxy Force GD-14 Master Megatron

Also had a CYBER(TRON) MONDAY Sale Pricing session via Morg & Co.'s B/S/T page only.

 

My symboless Lambor turned up. After some initial concern it was a KO, I scoured KO Lambor threads, and compared my example with my genuine Tigertrack, and I'm convinced I have a genuine Takara product, although the Tigertrack sticker sheet is odd.

It doesn't have many flaws, a moulding sink mark on the crotch flap, some thin paint on the pieces where the wing mirrors are, some paint imperfections on the roof, and of course he can't hold his gun.

 

Sounds pretty f**ked up to be honest.

Maaaaaaan I really want one of them!!

 

Right, I've applied the soldering iron technique to my MT Hound, and it worked 100%
It was very easy indeed (I managed it!)
Firstly move all of hounds various arms, panels, tyres etc... away from the area where the pin (rivet) is located.
I used a 25W Antex soldering iron, with a round chamfered tip (4mm dia).
I made sure the end of the iron was clean, by letting it heat up, and then wiping the tip on a damp spongecloth. Then put a very small amount of solder onto the end of the tip, and wipe the tip again, to leave a very thin shiny film of solder on the tip of the iron. This helps tremendously in transferring the heat to the pin.
Then press the iron onto the centre of the flat head of the pin, and hold it there for 15 seconds. Remove the iron and check the joint to see if it has loosened. If not, apply the iron again, but only for 5 seconds as there is already some heat in the pin. Then remove the iron and check the joint again. Successive applications of the iron will loosen the joint.
On my Hound, one joint side was much stiffer than the other. The looser one needed just the 15 seconds. The stiffer joint needed the extra second application of 5 seconds.
Holding the iron on for more than 20 seconds started to cause the joint to melt (I checked "in the name of science").
And Job done!
If I can do this, so can you.*


*No money back guarantee*