Let's see your Gundams

Discussion in 'The Toyark' started by agesthreeandup, Mar 13, 2007.

  1. Hadlen_Weltall

    Hadlen_Weltall The original Mad Genius Gunpla and Cow Master

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    I still need to finish the beam rifle, but I'm done with the GP01!

    [​IMG]

    First Real Grade, next GP01 is the Perfect Grade!
    [​IMG]
     
  2. LigerPrime

    LigerPrime Well-Known Member

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    Just completed sticking Dozle Zabi's Zaku II and it was the most tedious thing I have done in the longest time. The decals are a combo of a sticker and dry transfer - something very unique to me. One has to:

    1. Cut the decals out
    2. "Paste" them on the allocated part
    3. '"Rub" them out.

    The 'rubbing part was vomit-inducing as at times the decal simply refused to come out.

    For this kit, I simply applied top coat (Matt Finish) and simply used a Gundam marker (pink) on the mooneye. Used nail polish to strengthen and tightened the elbow and knee joints.

    Anyway here are some pictures:

    1. Dozle Zabi WANTS you!

    [​IMG]

    2. From Behind!

    [​IMG]

    Ha! Welcome to the thread dude! I've been into Gundam even before TFs but I only buy the toys and model kits that I like. I've stopping buying and assemplying kits for the last 2-3 years? Got back into the game because Bandai has revisited some of the older kits i.e. Nu Gundam and Sazabl...which is ironic because I have yet to even starting building the two.
     
  3. ronin0510

    ronin0510 Well-Known Member

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    Looks amazing!!! I could totally see Zeon using Dozle's zaku for propaganda posters as opposed to Dozle himself...lol gotta make war look attractive as opposed to the harsh gritty reality of it.
     
  4. LigerPrime

    LigerPrime Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, the design and the aesthetics of Dozle's Zaku II makes it look very regal and imperialistic.

    The gold decals are indeed very beautiful but applying them was such a dreadful process. I initially had no ideal how they worked - were they stickers or dry transfers? To compound matters some of them were too long and I had to custom cut them as I didn't want them to 'stick' to 2 separate armours - if you know what I mean.

    I also applied water slide decals and I actually managed to successfully wrapped all black stripes around the spikes but they won't stick. When I applied mark setter, some of them dissolved. Pretty cheesed off. But oh we'll, thankfully the gold decals look very stunning!

    Hey, I notice you have a black tristar Zaku II in your signature. Is it the 2.0? I'm still undecided if I should pick 3 of them or get more Zaku IIs.
     
  5. ronin0510

    ronin0510 Well-Known Member

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    Those decals came out great. All your work paid off. Yes its the 2.0 and its my favorite zaku. I have only built 2.0 zakus so I have no means of comparison with the first one.
     
  6. Hadlen_Weltall

    Hadlen_Weltall The original Mad Genius Gunpla and Cow Master

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    GREAT WORK Liger!

    Sorry I missed your help request during my half awake blitz post of the GP01.

    I've learned to use ultra fine grit sanding pads and my X-acto primarily.
    The easiest sanding solution are emery boards from your local grocery store's beauty aisle, they come in three packs of 'clean, condition, shine' and there's a four sided block for 'even, smooth, buff, polish' that work. Alternatively, I discovered at Hobby Lobby the "Alpha Abrasives" brand sanding pads in 400 grit and 1000+ grit polishing pads.

    They work perfectly!


    ---
    The HOW TO!

    First thing first, don't use your parts cutters and just clip it flush or else you could shear into the part with your cutters.

    Cut it down until there's the obvious 'nub' and then go with your knife.

    You don't want to just "Cut off the nub" but shave it down, slicing away at it down and away from the flat side of the sprue-nub. Also,DO NOT go down the length of the model part, but towards the edge.

    When you get it flush enough, you can take a tip of sand paper, and score against the nub, same, single striking motion as you would with an x-acto knife as I explained.

    here's the result of this method on something I just got for review:
    [​IMG]
     
  7. Autoclot

    Autoclot Well-Known Member

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    Thanks - I found a couple on eBay which should arrive just after Christmas :) 
     
  8. MunseMan

    MunseMan Chuck Testa

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    [​IMG]
    (That's the MG next to it)

    Now to wait til Christmas to get started on this.
     
  9. kaos

    kaos the original thirteen

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    so looking forward to this..or having the wife build it rather..
     
  10. Sinestro00

    Sinestro00 S’goden, s’doodis

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    So for those getting the PG Unicorn, are you going to do the panel lines in grey, black, or not at all? All the pics & vids I've seen, they seem to be light on panel lining if any is done at all. Maybe the outer white armor parts and psycho frame eliminate the need for extra lining. I haven't been able to track down the Unicorn anime anywhere for reference (anyone knows where it streams, I'd appreciate a link).

    The HLJ build video (8-part series!) seems to indicate that the injection ports for the parts trees are in nicely-hidden areas to reduce sprue marks, so this may truly be a perfect build w/o the need for paint!

    I should be getting mine this week (with LED kit!), but I'm debating on whether or not to let the wife wrap it for my kids to give to me for Christmas. Sorry for my over-use of !!!s, but this thing is going to be freaking awesome! If MP Magnus gets released before the big day, with him and the Unicorn, it will be the best Christmas since I got my SNES :D 
     
  11. LigerPrime

    LigerPrime Well-Known Member

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    Thanks dude! I incorporated much of your tips in the previous posts such reducing nub marks and top coating the kit! Appreciate the help as I find after following your pointers, my model kits look much better! :) 
     
  12. typev3

    typev3 @VinceSanchez

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    I'm still debating myself. I'd love to see one with Panel Lining first before I commit.
     
  13. Hadlen_Weltall

    Hadlen_Weltall The original Mad Genius Gunpla and Cow Master

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    I'll keep you posted.

    I'm planning to paint those indented panel marks where the armor separates and i'm thinking about using a second color ink for the psycho frame.
     
  14. Armorwolf129

    Armorwolf129 Well-Known Member

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    I know a place it streams on, but i'm not sure if we're allowed to link to them on this site.
     
  15. User_93049

    User_93049 Well-Known Member

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    Got a Unicorn kit from my friends as a late birthday present.

    [​IMG]

    Here it is with my partly finished Zeta.
     
  16. calvin0

    calvin0 Well-Known Member

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    i hope you get the LED set as well, otherwise you'll be missing out..
     
  17. MunseMan

    MunseMan Chuck Testa

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    Yeah, I got it, it's in the box behind the PG. I wouldn't miss out on the full experience (aside from the full armor add-on)
     
  18. anubis20

    anubis20 Well-Known Member

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    Got this box of awesome today :rock  Price for the LED unit still feel like a rip off :redface2: 

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Hadlen_Weltall

    Hadlen_Weltall The original Mad Genius Gunpla and Cow Master

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    No such thing as a Cheap LED except for the flashlights you get at Harbor Freight Tools.
    ---

    Review kit work time:

    The sharpness of the molding is impressive!

    [​IMG]

    I didn't feel like using silver enamel and clear coat on this one, so the eyes are a mix of silver acrylic and my "No Zaku" Blue. Makes for a nice solid color with a slight 'sparkle' in the light effect.

    [​IMG]

    Typical "Cut off the stem" in the middle of the skirt armor, but the added space between the two points gives them better range of movement.
     
  20. FanimusMaximus

    FanimusMaximus Well-Known Member

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    I like what you did with the face, I gotta try that trick some time.