Some one from the Kronos thread asked me to start a thread on this. Sorry, I don't have pictures for these items, but I am hoping the wording is enough. Please note, unless your name is Dark Seeker, you shouldn't have all these issues. Maybe 2 or 3 at most on your figure. So all the "Items needed" will not be needed, just the ones that apply to you.

Hoping this helps those of you with issues.

Part I. Items needed
- Lube (Associated Diff Silicone Grease 4Cc RC10 (ASC6636) | RC Planet)
- Epoxy Repair Putty from Loctite Adhesives http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-43134...71&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=amazon+loctite+puddy) OR super glue
- An exacto knife, or razor blade. Just something to cut a bit of excess plastic.
- A No. 0 - 2 1/2 philips screw driver to tighten or losen screws.
- Rubbing Alcohol wipes (91% preferable)
- Softscrub
- Patience

Part II. Main reported questions/issues
IMPORTANT SHIT. REALLY IMPORTANT SHIT!

So in my transformation today, I actually found a QC issue that I want you guys to be aware of.

The cause of it is mold flashing, and the fix is easy, but if you "bruit force" the issue, you will break your figure. So I think it is serious enough.

I the transformation sequence, on Page 20 of the manual. You need to fold the arms into the bot. The shoulder area goes in the whole area. It is the second step on Page 20.



This should fold up nice and smoothly. In mine, it did not. At first I try to apply some force. Then I thought, I better not.

So I identified the issue. The little square block that holds the arms together. It's slightly too big. Causing it not to fit. If you push it, YOU WILL CRACK THE PLASTIC. SO DON'T BRUIT FORCE IT! DAMN IT!

So what do you do? Well, you unscrew the arms from those two screws:


That will give you access to just the block in question. Now you can either remove a couple more pieces or shave from here. I shaved from here, but I would actually recommend removing more pieces.

The trick is, you want to shave enough on the sides to get this to fit. Not too much, but not too little. I shaved VERY little, test fitted, shaved some more, test fitted, shaved some more.



PLEASE MAKE SURE TO DO THIS IF YOU FIND THIS STEP TO GIVE YOU RESISTANCE. This will fix your issues.


Hey, look, "Head, Shoulder, Knees and Toes!"

Head:
I have only seen this reported once. However, if your head has popped off AT THE BASE. you can take some Crazy glue to glue it back on. That is, if it is at the base. This shouldn't effect head movement at all. The ball joint is not at the base.


Thanks to Optibotimus for the pic.

The shoulder tabs:
Can you hold your Kronos by his arm? Well I can:


How? Well, simple. I play with the 3 tabs that need to be tabbed in right for this to hold. The reason why it doesn't tab at the shoulder is cause these 3 areas pull on each other in opposing directions. Get these lined up, and winner, winner chicken dinner. The way I do it works best as mentioned here. However, you may have to play with it. But you play with it, you will get it right. BTW for the shoulder tabs, the tab goes in first, then the extra push locks it in place.



The knee area that collapses:
This one is interesting. I am wondering if this is another area that needed to be lubed at the factory. I kinda think it was. There are multiple locking areas in there it slides by, then locks into. If lubed this should work fine and handle the weight of the figure well. Having said that, I have no clue if it should be lubed. So I will leave that to you.

If you have problems transforming that area, rock the joint left to right and give just a bit of force, but you don't need to give a lot. The last click is the hardest. Wait for the figure to be almost all together and push on the plane mode down and both the knees will click in in the last level.

Yet again, this is a 3rd Party toy. Handle with care. Since when do we bruit force our TFs?

Toes:
- In Optibotimus review the toe was hard to push in. I had the same issue. But what I love about this figure is that you can control tolerances with a screw driver. So when I pushed it, and it wouldn't move, I looked for the screw that corresponds to it. Once I found it and LOOSENED it, that toe moved in with no issue.

So the moral of the story is, always look for a corresponding screw that may go along with your issue. Tighten it or loosen it to see if it changes and or fixes your issue.

As an aside, I love the screw design. Being able to change tolerances with just a twist of the screw is great.



Some grabbing of your ankles, a little Lube, some screwing around the hips and strengthening your bicep. Not what you think, you sick bastards.

Ankles:
Put your finger on the ankle. Do you feel lube on them? If not, lube them. Then be careful on the last two tabs. The are tighter then the rest and are meant to lock.

I gotta say this design feels strange. Having said that, I think it was a design choice to handle all the weight of the figure. This design definitely allows for you to pose the figure and for it to stay. A ball joint would never handle this weight. So I know people are attacking it, but it is an interesting solution.

JUST MAKE SURE IT IS LUBED. I think the plastic is intentionally softer to let the mechanism slide when LUBED.

Additional Tip for Ankles:

Yet another Tip for those pesky ankles

SHIT, WHY DIDN'T I READ THIS THREAD FIRST?!!! LOOK WHAT I DID! What? There is a fix for this?
Did you do this by mistake?


Then lookie here:

Hips:
If you have lose hips, look behind the hip area, there is a screw. Screw it in. I was surprised how deep the screw went in. Once done, no more hip issues.



NOW, be careful not to STRIP the screw. Tighten a little and test the loseness. Then some more. Don't tighten all the way, it's not needed.

If your screw keeps turning, it may be stripped. Please see the stripped screw section below.

Bicep Swivel:
It is pretty good for the most part. It can hold it's pose. However, if you want it TIGHT. Then you need to open it up. Take apart just the shoulder housing. Then get yourself some pledge with future in it. Then lather the joint at the top on the part at the elbow that connects to the shoulder assembly. If you want, you can also do it to the shoulder assembly.

NOW WAIT. WAIT 24 hours for it to FULLY DRY. Refit the part. It should be TIGHT. If not, rinse and repeat these steps. If you have to do it more then 2x, I will be very surprised.

Alternate Bicep Swivel Fix Method

Part III: General
Gaps:
If you have an unsightly gap, take apart that piece carefully. What I recommend is take pictures of what our doing with you camera phone. That is what I always do. This way, if there is a spring or something, you see how it was positioned.

Once the piece is apart, you will most likely see mold flashing. Shave it down, and reassemble. Gap is gone.

WARNING FOR DISASSEMBLY!
Can you break something when disassembling the toy if not careful?

Take a look here

Daca Toys Kronos (Masterpiece scaled Skyfire / Jetfire)

Paint over sprays:
In most paint overspray cases, you can take a rubbing alcohol wipe (one you can buy from a pharmacy) and beginning wiping with a bit of elbow grease.

But be careful, as you can wear away the paint under it. So if it looks questionable, let it be, or return the figure.

Other Paint over Spray Tips:

Fixing stripped screws
With a stripped screw, what you can do is fill in the area where the screw is supposed to go in, with a 2 part epoxy. Let the epoxy dry completely after applied, then you can drill right in. Here is an epoxy that is recommended.
Repair Putty from Loctite Adhesives
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-43134...71&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=amazon+loctite+puddy
- Thanks go to Autotroprime

Other fixing stripped screws tip:

Fixing the hole in his hand:

Part IV. Transformation Pro Tip:
Best Transformation Video I have seen so far:

So for the ankles, first move all the tabs to the side. Slide the feet back a couple of notches until you can get the sliding mechanism through the Toe hole. The whole time, make sure to support the sliding mechanism. Then fold up the feet fully. First the Toe, then the long plank. This will help the mechanism slide in place correctly. When they are closed this way, the sliding mechanism fits in between the toe area, and it closes properly. Just to be clear, the instructions say to slide the mechanism first. Yeah, don't do that.



Don't forget to lube the ankles!

PRO TIP for transformation #2:
So, you know how on page 20, the picture the Red part of the arms, facing downwards. YEAH, DON'T DO THAT. Face the white part down.



Why? Well 2 reasons. 1, you don't scrape your red paint.

Reason #2, GUN STORAGE!!!


Yeah, and Optibotimus, it holds. There is nothing to click or tab into. It hold by friction alone but it holds.


And the best part, now Kronos looks like he is taking off when you place him flat.



Part V. Overall:
Hope this is helpful. This covers off all of the issues I have heard about the figure.

If there are others I have missed, please feel free to add to this.

 

- Added pics for Shoulder tab transformation
- Added method for fixing stripped screws
- Added warning for disassemble of the figure
- Added pics for various Ankle items
- Added shapeway replacement from broken ankle
- Added additional item for paint overspray tips
- Added picture for tightening the figure at the hips so it doesn't do the splits

Just udated the main page with:

- Hand fix for the whole
- Bicep fix with shim
- Additional flash on ankle fix

Quoted all authors on fixes to make sure they get the credit.

 

Great work man. There's one tip on here that is so simple, but genius that spans beyond Kronos.

Take pics with your phone or other device as you are disassembling. I think that is the best tip of the bunch. I can't tell you how many times I've been over confident in taking something apart to fix it whether it be a transformer or a computer and then realized I couldn't remember how it was supposed to go back together.

Simplest, yet best tip!

 

I'd recommend the lube as well, as WD40 is a solvent, not a lubricant.

 

So, color matching paints. I really want to repaint the red on one forarm, but I don't trust myself to paint the whole figure and not mess it up. Anyone have a recommendation for the closest matching red out there?

 

Ok, so I started looking at the ankle design. For those of you that have the ankle binding issue (myself included),just take as small file (ie jewelers file) and file down these two points on each end little by little (Alucards rule as it shall be known as) until it move free enough but still holds securely. - quick CAD drawing to illustrate each end.



Thoughts??? I am going to order one and test it out. I'll let you know how it goes.



Based on

Ok, here you go if your feeling brave!!! I have ordered a set and will post the results when I get them. It is basically a direct copy, except I opened the holes up by about 0.003" and made the peaks between holes large radii to help with a smoother transition from hole to hole. Lastly there is a peg included just in case the one that is in between the leg halves breaks like mine did.

Krono's Replacement Ankle by autotronprime on Shapeways

Krono's Replacement Ankle Set by autotronprime on Shapeways

Hey, no problem!

Btw, this is what your looking for to fill the hole that is stripped. Loctite Repair Putty Multi-Purpose from Loctite Adhesives

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-431348-2-Ounce-Cylinder-Repair/dp/B000BOB8P6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406745071&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=amazon+loctite+puddy

Same stuff. I have used both.

 

As you can see from Alucard77's pic, there are some flashing in the ankle slide, make sure to clean that up.

 

Posted this in the Kronos thread, then directed here. Hope this helps you all out.

Hello everyone, not sure if this was posted yet but I found out this trick to help me with the ankle/feet not properly working in the channel that optibotimus broke in his video.

So here goes. When I first got my 2 Kronos I found a mystery screw in the first box and couldn't see at first where it went. But I did notice that the left foor/ankle was almost impossible to move in the channel without really putting a bunch of force behind it. And the right one was really easy to move through. I thought this was one of the flukes that this was having along with the rest of the issues.

Upon further looking I noticed that my mystery screw was from the middle screw on the right foot/ankle. Well I put back in the screw and tightened it down and the foot/ankle would not slide at all on the right side now without a bunch of force. So what changed I tought and I said to myself "it couldn't be that easy", well it was. I lossened both middle screws on the right and left ankle/feet and they glide flawlessly in the channel.

I took out the other Kronos and opened him up to find out that the ankle/feet were also very hard to move in the channel without a bunch of force. So I lossened the middle screws on that one also and boom, they move perfect.

I don't know if this will help others out but it helped me and I figured I would share the info.

Here is a picture of the screw I loosened, it's pointed out with the red arrow.

 

Hi guys, question about gaps, in particular the left forearm. Mine has a gap in the left forearm similar to pics in this thread. I'm not sure if its mold flashing or if the peg that is attached to the flap that opens up to hide the hands might be too long as I can see it doesn't look fully pressed into the hole. The flap operates fine, so I'm guessing the peg is too long. Anyone have any experience fixing this issue ?

 

I need one, too.

 

Alucard had just posted this in the main Kronos thread. I wanted to ask about this very interesting technique. Which epoxy would I need to buy in order to seal the thread part to then later put the screws back on? Would take any recommendations, so I can order some, cool general idea.


@ Autotronprime, thanks for having these made at Shapewayes, and pls let us know how well it works out.

 

I think you need to use a 2 part epoxy. Not sure which exactly. Maybe someone can answer that.

 

all i did was push down on the actual base of the flap...u'll feel it go down a bit....then u can easily fold down the tail flap

 

Fixes for the open slot on back of hand...

.065" styrene

My size was apprx 1.75 x 7.7 mm



Fills in the slot perfectly. Just wedge in and it stays. Not necessary to glue either. Just cut to size and it'll hold perfectly.



Looks like it came from the factory that way!
Enjoy!

 

Don't know if anyone else has had this problem. If there is a fix I would be very grateful.
http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/80sforged/media/IMG_20140806_192630_zps502563ce.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

 

What is the issue? If its that the flap on the forearm that will not shut flush, check the other hand and you will see how it travels to flip in. I had one hand that the wrist part was installed backwards so the hand wouldn't fold in all the way. They have pegs on the sides that travel in a u shaped groove track. They should only go in one way properly. When you take it out, you will see what I mean as its easier to see with the hand out. I just spread the forearm arm plastic ever so slightly you dont need a lot of force as you just need to get one tab side out on the hands base. took the hand out, rotated the wrist and flipped the hand base and reinstalled. My forearm flap could now close flush.

If that wasnt your issue, sorry for the long post

 

No, look at the right hip (to the left of the picture near the open hand). The leg is telescoping out of the joint.

 

Thanks for clarifying.

Anyone know how the legs come apart? Would like to use hobby grease on the leg parts that collapse in transformation.

 

I should have been more specific. It took me a couple minutes to notice the hip as well. Everything else on it is fine. Would it be worth while to open the thigh, can it be adjusted from there?

 

Many thanks, Alucard77! In part thanks to this thread, I have managed to transform Kronos with no breakages:



I had a couple of problems:

1. The shoulder area wouldn't fold in, but following Alucard's instructions and shaving down the rectangular part, fixed this.

2. The legs were incredibly difficult to collapse, especially the right one. In the end I had no other choice but to use brute force for the last part, so fingers crossed I can ever extend them again...

3. I was careful to check for lube on the ankles, and in fact there is so much lube that my hands get covered in the gunk even handling the ankles. Loosening the screw recommended by optimuspimp helped here, too. One of the ankles/feet transformed perfectly with no issues, but with the other one, when I folded in the toe and then slid the foot along the fragile crescent part, the toe would get pushed out again. After a bit of examination, I found that there was a large chunk of mould flash on the top of the fragile crescent part, inside the foot:



This meant that the toe could not slide over the crescent piece. Carefully trimming the excess plastic away with an Exacto knife fixed the issue.

Other than that, his hips were a bit loose and so I've tightened the screws a little, as per this thread, and the bicep is loose, so I need to find a fix for that, as tightening the screw there had no effect (I think I read that tape works, or was that for Scoria?).

Over all, I've been pretty lucky with my figure, though (provided I can extend the leg again!), and I'm really happy with it. I'm very glad that this thread existed, as it saved me a chunk of frustration.

Thanks again!