Hercules "fixes" mega thread

Discussion in 'Tutorials and How Tos' started by Zambot, Dec 20, 2011.

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  1. MechanovaKing

    MechanovaKing Well-Known Member

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    OK...i got my scavenger open.

    his shoulder/panel join-rivet-thing has loosened. The bumps should be in a cross lined up with the cross design on the in side.

    (That grey ring with the tabs is fine, ignore that)

    Any ideas how to tighten that up?
     

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  2. daimchoc

    daimchoc Well-Known Member

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    Unless you're doing the shave/filing on the original hips as per the post on first page of this thread, then all you have to do is switch the new hips in.
     
  3. mrtbone81

    mrtbone81 Bringer of Devastation

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    You do not have to remove them if you have the replacement hips. The new hips do come with the screw covers separate so you can plug them in. But the fix for the new hips does not require those plugs to be removed. so you can still open up the new hips to ensure that there is enough lube on the ratchets.
     
  4. daimchoc

    daimchoc Well-Known Member

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    RC Silicone based Lube. Available at hobby shops or online stores.
     
  5. MechanovaKing

    MechanovaKing Well-Known Member

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    http://www.tfw2005.com/boards/creat...508-what-works-better-than-super-glue-ii.html

    I made a new thread.


    Also is there some number or webpage I can contact to ask about returning a broken figure?


    .
     
  6. Axelay

    Axelay Well-Known Member

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    I've disassembled my Structor tonight and examined the arm ratcheting problem. I've determined that the issue is NOT with the ratcheting joints themselves, but rather the "stem" of the joint which is connected to the black exterior arm piece is not stationary. (Short version - the ratchets work fine. It's the black arm "shelf" which is now loose.) I have no idea how to correct this problem, as that "stem" is exposed to extremely high torque when rotating the arm "shelf." I don't think in any way that super gluing it will work. I am skeptical about whether or not even marine epoxy would hold this. I think it may be time to attempt to contact TFC Toys and see if they have a replacement part.
     
  7. Alucard77

    Alucard77 Kaon Gladiator Champion

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    OK... I feel like I need to post this, as it may help some in the future:

    ALL HEAVY LABOR NEEDS IS LUBRICANT


    OK, now that is said, let me explain. All the fixes that were mentioned are not needed. In fact they make things worse.

    For Hercules, do not fix the off set on the legs. There is no reason to do this. It is actually meant for Hercules to stand slightly off set. If you leave it as is, Hercules will actually stand better.

    As for the fix for the crotch. Today I did the shave method and for good measure I added so Petroleum Jelly. Guess what, it is too loose. I didn't shave too much at all. The fix that TFC provides is perfect, you do not need to shave down the piece that looks like a D nor do you have to cut it. If you do, it will just be too loose.

    So let me repeat. For Heavy Labor, just take him apart and add Pertoleum Jelly and you will be fine.
     
  8. CodeXCDM

    CodeXCDM Well-Known Member

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    So I switched the waist assembly replacement for Heavy Labor that came with the last Herc Bot...

    So... at first, his left leg seemed to click back and forth without issue... But his right made a sort of THUNK noise when pulling it upwards, and a CLICK when going downwards.

    Figured I'd go and add some more petro jelly onto the joints... it more or less did the trick. However, now the right leg seems to click a decent bit louder than the left leg. After moving both legs around extensively, there seems to be no wear apparent... Should I still be concerned that the clicks aren't so strong on one of the legs?

    Should I assume that the diaper change for Heavy Labor is successful now?
     
  9. Tekkaman Blade

    Tekkaman Blade Professor of Animation

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  10. kibble

    kibble Seeker style, yo!

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    They come in Neckbreaker's package...at least they did. Not sure if they'll continue with that longterm since you'd think they'd just provide their 'fixed' versions with later runs.
     
  11. Solrac333

    Solrac333 G1 got it right!

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    I couldn't even take him apart all the way. I got stuck trying to swap the legs so I didn't force it.
     
  12. CodeXCDM

    CodeXCDM Well-Known Member

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    So... I assembled the Gestalt mode yesterday... looks fantastic.

    But I have an issue with his stability. He can't seem to hold his weight upright. The knees give away quite a bit... the joint HL uses for transformation on his waist also seems to be a bit week. The figure keeps keeling over.

    It perplexes me because well... I've yet to see videos where he doesn't look quite stable. =/
     
  13. Pun-3X

    Pun-3X Well-Known Member

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    One fix I gave to Madblender's connector is by putting a piece of styrene (I've got sheets) behind the gray block that acts as the tooth against the joint. Shaved at the styrene piece I put in until it wasn't too tight, but pushing against the gray block enough to make the knee click tighter. I suppose you could try other stuff, or leave it. Mine holds a bit better--though it's still kinda loose. Any tighter and I'm afraid it'll start sheering teeth. But that's one option there.

    My Structor knee joint is already very tight, so I don't want to mess with that (and it does hold well enough).
     
  14. MechanovaKing

    MechanovaKing Well-Known Member

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    Sigh...
    no problems with my Exgraver and Heavy laborer....

    So here's Neckbreaked.

    I'm not sure:
    but is his waist section not turning enough? should it turn to be at 90degrees?
    On mine it seems to stop just shy of that.

    And the cab also isn't bending. What fixes can i make to get it to bend?
     

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  15. mx-01 archon

    mx-01 archon Well-Known Member

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    The recommended fix is a slice of vinyl eraser. It provides enough thickness, but has that springy give to it so that it doesn't grind down the joint.

    Did that, and the joint wound up being a smidge tighter than Structor's. So put a piece of card stock behind Structor's (since the eraser piece is incredibly difficult to fine-tune), and that evened it right up.

    That's the case with everybody's. Just push harder.

    Can't tell what's going on with the cab joint. Perhaps there's a bit of mold flashing there?
     
  16. Mechafire

    Mechafire Shadow Broker Moderator News Staff

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    So is there a fix that's generally agreed upon is the best for HL's hips? From what I've gathered, the most suggested fixes are

    - Just greasing it up
    - Cutting part of the ring
    - Shaving a section of the inside ring

    Just want to get an idea about how I should go about doing this. Have my Herc complete but I still have you to do any of the mods.
     
  17. daimchoc

    daimchoc Well-Known Member

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    Use the new hips and just make sure to check for the lube. If you want to go extreme, then you can also do the shaving/cutting. Not really needed, in my opinion.
     
  18. iron maniac

    iron maniac Help Uncle Sixshot, Help!

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    I did the Heavy Labor crotch swap on Tuesday night using the RobotKingdom pictorial guide and it was seriously a cinch. No problems at all.
     
  19. Mechafire

    Mechafire Shadow Broker Moderator News Staff

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    That would be the most convenient option, however I've heard some peoples' hips have stripped even with the lube. Is that true?
     
  20. beigoma

    beigoma Autobot TFW2005 Supporter

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    Making sure both sides are greased well seems to be universally accepted. From what I've read, cutting is out. It will make it too loose. Shaving could go either way. This is just what I've surmised from reading. I haven't tested any of them yet.

    EDIT: When I get mine (he shipped today!) I definitely will not be using WD-40 or petroleum jelly to lube HL. I'm going to the R/C car hobby store for some plastic-safe gear grease.
    http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...07216_117375601631743_790431_1169190944_n.jpg
     
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