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Recommended Adhesives

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Old 09-10-2011, 04:58 PM   #1
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One of the key components to making a good, solid custom is using the correct adhesive. Since I feel like it's such an important element for customizing and kitbashing, I thought I would ask the Radicons for their input. Below are those contributions (and thanks to all who contributed!):

This is our original tutorial source: Glues For Projects

From hXcpunk23:
“I've used the following glues on most of my projects, which involve styrene to styrene bonding and styrene to TF plastic bonding (I haven't tried others, but these work wonders for my customs work):

Loctite Super Glue Ultra Gel - For parts that you want to hold very well. This glue is for the heavy duty stuff.



Loctite Super Glue Control Gel - For parts where you'd like more control over glue application. This glue allows you to "control" small amounts or large amounts to help bond small to large parts.



Testors Plastic Cement - For styrene to styrene bonding. Works pretty well, but personally, I prefer the two above, depending on the project at hand.



Loctite Super Glue Control Extra Time - Tested this recently and it works fairly well, though it's more like a liquid and runs everywhere. This one gets very messy, very quickly. I'm also not sure what the "Extra Time" means here. The glue dries very quickly and holds well, so the "Extra Time" doesn't apply here. Maybe it means you need extra drying time to allow it to set. On the smaller parts and heads I've tried it on; it dries and sets pretty fast. I'd still suggest the top two over this or the Testors.”


* * * * *


From nellie131:
“I have also used the Loctite Super Glue Ultra Gel. For really heavy duty jobs I use these two:

Devcon Plastic Weld - This stuff is scary strong and very pungent to use. Well ventilated area is needed, and it has a decent working time.

(I'd also like to note that when asked, this is the adhesive that plowking recommended to me as well. ~SQ7)



Zap-A-Gap: Replaced the Loctite brand for me. [It’s] very, very good stuff to use, but [it] will glue skin to anything in seconds and has a good strength.”



* * * * *

From big hank:
“For my main ‘superglue’ cyanoacrylate I use Jet brand. It comes in 3 flavors:
Thin (which is like regular watery superglue)
Medium (I use this for 90% of my superglue usage)
Thick ( very gel -like, I don't use it often)
Jet is probably the best (read: strongest) cyano[acrylate] type glue I've come across. The down side is the nozzles do tend to clog and the glue itself seems to dry in the bottle quicker than other cyano[acrylate]s. I still prefer Jet to any other for sheer durability.



I also frequently use ZipKicker accelerator for my cyano[acrylate]s. This stuff forces the cure time to near instant:



Here is Loctite 2 part epoxy for plastics, I am using this for the G1 Grimlock project, and it's very good. Not as good as DevCon Plastic Epoxy, but certainly cheaper and more readily available:

]
Not pictured because I don't have any with me, but recommended:

DevCon Plastic weld
Tennax plastic weld
Plastruct welder
for similar and dissimilar plastics”

* * * * *


From shinobi77:
“For the heavy duty bonding, I use the Zap a Gap. Fills gaps nicely, it’s a permanent bond; the plastic will break before the glue does.

For a bit more flexible bond, I use the Plastruct Plastic Weld. This stuff is also good for gluing straight edges together and not leaving a bead. You hold the edges together and brush it on the edges; it seeps in by capillary action and, leaves a nice flexible bond.
It is kind of smelly, really thin. It’s a brush on glue, and literally a dab will do you.”


* * * * *

From Treadshot A1:
Zap a gap. Really strong and sets fast. I’ve dropped my toys from height and the plastic breaks before the glue does. [It] does bond skin, but also has almost no smell compared to other glues. Get the green version.” (See photo above. ~Superquad7)

* * * * *


From sodawilly:
“For all of the customs stuff I have ever did I use the watery type of cyanoacrylate from Great Planes. I have a pretty steady hand when using this stuff. I've found it to be the best for me. Usually, [it] cures ultra-fast. Nice thing with it, too, [is] you can set your parts and get them lined up just right before it fully takes hold. I used it making the head for my newest Chromedome custom.”


* * * * *


From bonus2003:
“I have used this glue a lot of times: Gorilla Glue, glue pen. It is not a serious bonding agent, [but] it will hold but with moderate strength (i.e. pulling with both hands in opposite directions it will fail). What it is very good at is gap filling with moderate hold. So, if you have to glue something or reinforce it and need the gap filling this works well. It starts out like everything else but it ‘bubbles’ as it dries and expands 2-3 times what you put on. Once dry, it can be cut with an X-Acto knife or filed down somewhat. Oh, and its cheap 2-3 bucks tops! [A] little bit goes a long way.”


* * * * *


From Zildjian:
“[This is the] only stuff I use; I mix it with toothpicks or scrap plastic and spread it with them as well, sometimes smoothing with a wet finger.:”


* * * * *


From Marto6:
"So far I use just a few adhesives for my custom work. [I use] super glue in the forms of a liquid and a gel - which one I use depends on the criteria of the materials I'm bonding or if I need a gap filler at the same time. Other then super glue ([I have] no favorite brand yet) I use Testors model glue for model car type plastics. The red labeled stuff in the precision point bottle.

When I glue anything, I try to use clamps when ever I can. It should be noted that my limited adhesive needs are because I only have customized Alternators in various ways. When I move into different lines, I figure I will need to get some other types of glue."


* * * * *


From Wikkid:
3M panel bond:
This stuff's made to glue roof panels, door skins, and other automotive parts to your vehicle. The only way to break the bond is with a hammer and chisel. From what I understand, when sprayed through a high pressure and heated application system, it is also used to bomb-proof military equipment.

. . . . so yeah, she'll hold your toy together.

* * * * *


From Venksta:
"I use "Insta-Cure + Gap Filling Glue". [I started] using this for my Banshee Blades. I was worried the glue I use would break down after awhile with the blades. This thing, however, is amazing! I glued together some ruby blades for CybCon and threw them in a bag after a couple hours of it setting. When I got my hotel several hours later, the blades had gone bent, but the parts remained stuck together, thanks to the glue. I think any other glue would of made it come apart. I use to use two part epoxy glue, but Insta-Cure is leagues better, in my opinion."


* * * * *


From frenzyrumble:
For smaller details stuff [,this is the] best "super" glue I've used. [The] bond lasts forever. They have 2 types: the other is purple - [it] runs thicker and takes longer to dry (I think):




Also great for Zap-a-Gap is the [Zip] Kicker. A little jot of this stuff, and the glue instantly dries. [It] comes with [a] spray pump. [Be] careful not to get this on your skin, and beware of it's stink:




For heavier stuff I use Devcon. [It's] easy to get and, when dry, [it's] stronger than the plastic it's bound to:


(Many thanks to each member who contributed their thoughts and suggestions to this article! ~Superquad7)
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Last edited by Superquad7; 09-27-2012 at 04:37 AM..
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