I found this by YouTube user batmanlooksgood, courtesy of JTM45 of the 3A Legion Outpost:

How to do a REALLY Rusty model car - YouTube ​

I must admit, I was floored by the results of this process. I actually tried this technique myself. Here's my experience with it:

I started with a junker Mirage. I got this Mirage used. I was going to use it for something else. I was told it wasn't that bad, so I bought it, got it, and was like "crap, this is screwed up”. So I stripped everything off it I could use, or think to use and got to work.

I used my soldering Iron to create damage in certain areas, mainly what I thought would rust on a car that's just been setting alone under the hot sun rusting away. I also did some window damage, but in these photos, I had already taped up the windows so to not get paint all over them (mind you, the pink was already on it):

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As you can see, I laid out some good damage there - just trying this out [and I] wanted to see how good it would look in person.

To the well advice of TTT and ABX23, I picked up this:



I'm sure others here may have used it, but it was recommended to me by TTT and Earl, so thanks to you two for that.

I've hardly ever used a primer when painting . I just prep, prep some more, then a little more, and paint with Fusion.

But this time, I used the Ultra Black as a Primer, because I wanted everything to look "uniform" when done.

Next I laid down the Ultra Flat Black all over:

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You can see in this top shot here, that there some paint issues on the front end (you can see "bubbles/blemishes" some minor "separation" and the paint lines from where the pink was) and I know why: I didn't prep this as I normally would; I just damaged it, taped off the important stuff, gave it a quick scuffing, alcohol wipe down, and painted it.

I believe the paint issues on the hood will play to my advantage in this rusting process:

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Now, I'll start with the actual rusting process. Here's the stuff from the video:

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[I got] it at Michaels. Oddly enough, it wasn't in the paint section. If you go looking for it, and don't see it in the paint section, don't give up! Ask for help, or keep looking. The little kit comes with two little bottles in it (2 ounces [in] each bottle), and it’s water based for an easy clean up.

This is what it looks like after I laid down a coat of the "Iron Metallic Surfacer" to it. As you can see, the "IMS" is grey in color. [There’s] no need to be "neat" about it at all. After all, we are going for a rusting car look aren't we?

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After letting this set for a day to dry, I did put on the "Rusting Solution". it's a clear liquid (the odor kind of reminds me of nail polish remover, or something like that), but it’s clear, so there really isn't anything to show here.
I placed the Rusty Mirage (while still wet with the solution) in a Ziploc baggie as directed in the video:

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You can clearly see, that it is rusting in there. After a whole day of letting it set in the baggie, this is what I got so far:

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I added one more light coat of the "Iron Metallic Surfacer" to all the areas with "damage":

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After again letting this set for a day to dry, I went back to the "Rust Antiquing Solution" and hit all the "grey" areas I created with the "Iron Metallic Surfacer". In these two photos here, you can actually see that the figure is wet:

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*if you look closely, you can see the liquid droplets inside the baggie already changing colors*

This is what we had after letting it set in the baggie for another 24 hours:

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As you can see, I added some "vandalism" to the front windshield....those pieces have only one thin coating of the "Iron Metallic Surfacer" and "Rust Antiquing Solution"

And here are some bonus "outside" shots:

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I have to say, this was pretty cool to do, and it's super easy to boot. If you can hold, and use a paintbrush, have a plastic bag at your disposal, and can get the "Rust Antiquing Set" then I say give it a shot!

. . . . and remember, have fun!

1. It isn't smooth, but yes, it can be handled without rubbing any off. Now if you actually try rubbing it, you’re going to get some rust on your finger from rubbing it.

*Also, straight from the "instruction sheet" - Sealing: The Rust may stain surfaces that receive water runoff. Treating the surface with a water-based acrylic sealer may be desirable. Sealing may change the finish.

2. If you mean sand down the rusted parts, and paint them blue again, I don't see why not. It's what’s in the paint that gives it the rusting ability. Now does the solution affect the plastic? That I don't know.

3. What I would do to be safe, would be to separate any parts from the rest that I didn't want rust on during the process. From what I've learned from it though, the solution will only "rust" what’s been treated with the "IMS'.

I've been opening and closing the doors and hood, and I can say that nothing has come off yet.