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Building Movie-Accurate Hands for '07 Movie Leader Class Optimus Prime

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Old 09-07-2008, 02:30 PM   #1
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Location: The Netherlands; In the provence Friesland in Heerenveen. Yes, the place of ice-speedskating.
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Building Movie-Accurate Hands for '07 Movie Leader Class Optimus Prime

[Here's] how I build movie-accurate hands of Optimus Prime:

First of all I unscrewed the hands of the arms and unscrewed the thumbs. Then I cut off his hands of the base and made the base flat with a fine metal-rasp and sanding-paper (grid 400 waterproof):

Next I made the hands fit on the upper-part of the Bionicle joint and I drilled the hole where I put the thumbs in a little wider to fit the thumbs in it:

Then I put a screw into the upper-part of the joint to attach the thumbs. I also drilled holes in the upper hand part and the upper-part of the joint and put some metal-pins in with superglue to make a strong connection. Then I put it all together with super glue:

[The] next step was to make the connection with the base. I drilled a hole in the center of the base just above the hole where you attach the base on the arms. Then I drilled a hole into the Lego pin, cut it to the right size, put a metal pin in it and glued it together on the base:

Then I attached the Bionicle lower-part of the joint (that little black ball) on the base and also the hand. The hands must be removed to transform Optimus to truck-mode because the hands donít fit in the sleeping-cabin:

To make the hands movie accurate I looked at the CGI pictures to make the backside of his hands. I used sheet styrene of the brand Evergreen which can be bought at a local hobby-store. I attached it with metal-pins and superglue:

Next I did the paint-job with a satin black base-coat using Revell acrylic satin black number 302. I dry-brushed the hands with Citadel Games Workshop Chainmail, and to brighten it a little up [I used] Mithrill Silver of the same brand. I also colored the finger-joints with Citadel Brazing Brass, Revell Messing and Revell Gold. All are acrylics. To fixate everything, I put two layers of outdoor satin sealer of the brand Plaid Folk Art:

Originally Posted by frenzy_rumble
looks cool, but sucks they need to be removed. How do the bottoms look in alt mode? does your hole go through?
Thanks. It doesn't bother me that they have to be removed because I wanted them pose-able. The hole goes through the bottom but you don't see a thing because I put a little drop of superglue on the other side and used it as some sort of filler. It became rock-solid. Then, I flattened it all with a very fine metal rasp, waterproof sanding paper 400 grit, and 800 grit made [it] all smooth. Next, I painted the bottoms with Revell number 54 Midnight Blue Gloss acrylic. This color is close to the original blue color. I gave OPs his head the same color, which you can see on the WIP-update I did on September, 7th, 2008.
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I'm not a complete idiot. Some parts are missing.

Last edited by Superquad7; 05-17-2011 at 03:47 AM..
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