What about working with Leader-sized TF's? What would be the most ideal sized light box for everything between a Scout class to Leader class figures? Would 19 inches be enough? I have seen 24-25 inch boxes, but they take up a LOT of table space.

 

My light box is very tall (as I said I had it built for a tall figures), but it's too narrow. ROTF Jetifre didn't fit in jet mode.

That's very interesting trick you've got there NF. I guess I don't have enough patience for that (and impossible for me to do since I don't use a tripod) but it's really cool. I an surprised there's even a program for that!

 

Oh, okay. Doesn't seem like there would be enough light that way, but probably just means I need to learn how to place the lights better. Thanks, I'll give it a shot.

I'd give this a shot too, except you keep saying ISO as if I'm supposed to know what that means.  


For what it's worth, I have a Kodak EasyShare Z650. It does have some settings that can be manually adjusted, and it looks like ISO is one of them, but I'm going to have to see if I can find the manual I stole from my brother (who has the same camera) or look it up online to figure out how to adjust it.

Can you give me an idea of how far to lower it, or how to tell if I'm in the right neighborhood?

 

My camera from the same line except a little older, I can help. The whole point of using a light tent, light box is to not use the flash. Turn it off, don't use it. I use two light off to each side for my pictures so your good. From there, there are only three changes I make in my camera. First is changes the white ballance to tungsten. This will eliminate color from your white. You change the white ballance to whatever your lightsource is when you are shooting. Second thing I change is turn the flash off, as I mentioned before. Thirdly, this may change depending on how much your camera is upgraded compared to mine. On the back where the viewing monitor is, to the right is a button with a circle around it it. Push the outer ring on the right side. This will make the brightness of your pics go up. Depending on the lighting, I usually set mine between +.7 and +1.3. Nothing good has ever come from me messing with my iso, so I have left it at the factory settings. I hope this info helps you as much as it did for me.  

Also, one last thing. Don't be afraid to back up a little bit.I usually take pics of my transformers from about 18 inches back using the macro setting up by the "take the picture" button. On my Koday Easyshare, it is the flower icon on the ring around the "take the picture" button. Sorry I can't remember the buttons proper name right now. I woke up about 40 minutes ago, and I can't think yet.

 

I'll agree with thenatureboywoo except for the ISO thing. ISO is essentially setting sensor sensitivity in digital cameras. It used to be film speed, but on a true digital there is no film so it's simply adding or removing gain from the sensor. More gain = more noise. How that manifests is grain or grit in the shot.

Myself? When taking light tent photos I keep ISO either on the lowest possible setting, or only one step up from the lowest. If you have a tripod you can compensate for low ISO by having a slower shutter speed. Higher ISO is for low light situations where you still need speed. Like trying to capture a picture of a moving animal at night. Unless your toys are moving around on their own, low ISO should be better.

 

I know the ISO thing is important, I've been okay so far dodging the issue. I messed with it a while back on my Easyshare, and I got nothing but grain. But I imagine if I go back to it knowing now what I know about my camera it may be beneficial.

 

Thread's a bit old, but hey, oh well!

Anyway, I need some advice on what to diffuse light. Natureboywoo says that he uses embroidery backing. I could use tissue paper, but I wouldn't want a fire. Though the lamps I just bought don't seem to get to hot...

Any ideas?

 

If the lights are flourescent, you can use tissue paper. I'm taking a guess that's what they are because you said they don't get hot.

 

If the light is bright enough, go to a room with a white ceiling and point the light straight up. The light all splatters against the ceiling and diffuses nicely. You still have to position the light in an interesting place in front of/to the side of your fig...just take into account how it bounces off the ceiling.

This is right off of the camera. Most of the light was bounced off the ceiling and then a much weaker light was shined in from the left through tightly-woven white synthetic fabric to fill in the shadows. The lighting was not much different without this fill light. It was pretty subtle.




And here is the same setup except one light bounced off the ceiling to diffuse and another light right next to it shined directly on the figure.




Then you can throw it into Photoshop and crank it up (to tasteless extremes if so desired   )



...Or reel it in a bit.

 

Man it's been quite a while since I've seen this thread. Glad it's still going.   Wish I had some pics to share. My photo "studio" area is an absolute wreck from working on a massive re-arrangement of the TF's. Anywho...

This my friend is just gonna take trial and error. I have issues with focus when using my zoom lens. Sometimes you're just too dang close. Best to just gradually back up and keep taking shots til you see something that looks like it worked. Be glad we're not shooting with film hahaha.  

The fabric on my light tent is like that semi-reflective parachute style material. But it's a bit thicker. Kinda hard to explain. It's very smooth to the touch and definitely synthetic but I dunno what to compare it to.


Cheebs, how far are your figures from the ceiling in those shots? Or do you mean the ceiling of a light box?
-G

 

It is a standard ceiling height and Hotrod is on a table about 3 feet off the ground. So... 6-7 feet? White paper ran down the wall behind Hotrod and curved onto the table top where he was standing. No box was used.

My lights are pretty bright and there were two bunched together held up close to the ceiling (don't put any burn marks on your ceiling!). I use a tripod and remote control when the light gets really diffuse and I need a longer exposure. Something like the second picture with the one direct undiffused light didn't need a tripod (even though I used one). When every light is diffused...then that exposure time creeps up there.

Just remember when you don't use a box that you have to remove any external light that might be a different color. That usually means turning off the regular lights and blocking the windows.

 

Much as I want to take high quality white void photos like all the cool kids, I just can't seem to be assed to actually put a lightbox together. I guess my picture ideas are too spontaneous to actually set anything up for them.

When I want to take a picture and I don't want it to be on the diningroom table, I just go outside.








Weather permitting of course.

 

Added for resourcing.

 

Post for resourcing.

 

post