by Superquad7 Amazing Weathering Painting Tutorial (Part Three) |
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| They can't beat the best. ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2003 Posts: 36,472 Location: Zebulon, NC News Credits: 11 | Amazing Weathering Painting Tutorial (Part Three) (Thanks to frenzy_rumble for sharing this tutorial resource with us! ~Superquad7) (Original source: Ultrawerke: Painting and Weathering Tutorial: Part III) "Now we are going to complete rust effects using pigments (you also have a more detailed rust tutorial here). I first select some suitable rust colors: P230 Old Rust, P25 Standard Rust and P24 Light Rust. ![]() I do a pigment mix and add turpentine to make a wash. If the base color were enamels instead of acrylics I would have used alcohol instead of turpentine. ![]() This is the surface I pre-rusted with the airbrush in Part II. ![]() I now apply the pigment wash and let it dry. ![]() I'll start working on the tracks while the "rust" dries. I will go for a dry mud finish with leaves shiny metal on the exposed areas. There are many different techniques, but I'll cover them on further tutorials. I start applying dry earth-colored pigments (P28 Europe Dust) with an old brush. ![]() I then carefully add some turpentine drops to fix the pigments. ![]() I let now everything dry. ![]() This is the aspect once the pigment is dry. This will serve only as a base for the dry mud that comes next. ![]() I will prepare a dry mud mixture. I select some earth-colored pigments (P28 Europe Dust, P38 African Earth and P31 Vietman Earth), plaster and a special acrylic resin for making mud adding some water. ![]() I made some test and trial before finding the amount of plaster/resin to obtain dry mud. The more resin you add gives the mixture a gloss wet finish, as you can see in both mud samples over the tissue (both are completely dry, but the one on the right has more acrylic resin added). ![]() I liberally apply the diluted mix over the tracks. ![]() I remove the excess "mud" with a tissue before it is dry. ![]() This is how the tracks look once the "mud" is dry. ![]() Now I will drybrush the tracks using metallic colors in order to give the impression that the bare metal is showing due to the friction with the terrain. As usual, I drybrush using a flat ox hair brush and enamels. ![]() This is the final effect. I am not fully satisfied with it yet, so I will complete it later using more graphite. ![]() Next time we'll move on finishing small details and dusting the tank: Amazing Weathering Painting Tutorial (Part Four)" ![]() [TF 4 SALE! -VINTAGE G.I.JOE SALE! - WANTS - FEEDBACK - PHOTOBUCKET - NC@TFW (NC TFW2005 SOCIAL GROUP)] Last edited by Superquad7; 02-23-2011 at 02:11 AM.. |
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