Paints: Amazing Weathering Painting Tutorial (Part Three)

Discussion in 'Tutorials and How Tos' started by Superquad7, May 26, 2010.

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  1. Superquad7

    Superquad7 OCP Police Crime Prevention Unit 001 Super Content Contributor

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    (Thanks to frenzy_rumble for sharing this tutorial resource with us! ~Superquad7)

    (Original source: Ultrawerke: Painting and Weathering Tutorial: Part III)

    "Now we are going to complete rust effects using pigments (you also have a more detailed rust tutorial here). I first select some suitable rust colors: P230 Old Rust, P25 Standard Rust and P24 Light Rust.

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    I do a pigment mix and add turpentine to make a wash. If the base color were enamels instead of acrylics I would have used alcohol instead of turpentine.

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    This is the surface I pre-rusted with the airbrush in Part II.

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    I now apply the pigment wash and let it dry.

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    I'll start working on the tracks while the "rust" dries. I will go for a dry mud finish with leaves shiny metal on the exposed areas. There are many different techniques, but I'll cover them on further tutorials.

    I start applying dry earth-colored pigments (P28 Europe Dust) with an old brush.

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    I then carefully add some turpentine drops to fix the pigments.

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    I let now everything dry.

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    This is the aspect once the pigment is dry. This will serve only as a base for the dry mud that comes next.

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    I will prepare a dry mud mixture. I select some earth-colored pigments (P28 Europe Dust, P38 African Earth and P31 Vietman Earth), plaster and a special acrylic resin for making mud adding some water.

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    I made some test and trial before finding the amount of plaster/resin to obtain dry mud. The more resin you add gives the mixture a gloss wet finish, as you can see in both mud samples over the tissue (both are completely dry, but the one on the right has more acrylic resin added).

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    I liberally apply the diluted mix over the tracks.

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    I remove the excess "mud" with a tissue before it is dry.

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    This is how the tracks look once the "mud" is dry.

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    Now I will drybrush the tracks using metallic colors in order to give the impression that the bare metal is showing due to the friction with the terrain.

    As usual, I drybrush using a flat ox hair brush and enamels.

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    This is the final effect. I am not fully satisfied with it yet, so I will complete it later using more graphite.

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    Next time we'll move on finishing small details and dusting the tank: http://www.tfw2005.com/boards/tutor...g-weathering-painting-tutorial-part-four.html"
     

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    Last edited: Feb 23, 2011
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