How To Dye A Figure
|01-28-2008, 04:43 PM||#1|
longer days, plz?
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cape Girardeau, MO
Collection Count: 361
News Credits: 3
How To Dye A Figure
How To Dye A Figure
Credit for this goes to Ops_Was_A_Truck:
When Daniel said, in Transformers: The Movie, “Prime, you can’t die,” he was partially right. If he had said “Prime, you can’t dye your metal parts and your plastic parts can only be dyed to a shade of color darker than your current color scheme!” He would have been spot on.
I haven’t done many dying projects, so a lot of this knowledge is pooled from the multiple threads on the subject here at Radicon’s. Before you start, check out these links:
(Big credits to Gen. Magnus for those links, from the thread “Changing Translucent Colors on TF figures”)
Also check out this thread:
…in which Insane Galvatron dropped the knowledge bomb on all of us. (NOTE: Most of the instructions below are from this thread, so I extend a gracious “Thank you” to Insane Galvatron.”)
YOU WILL NEED:
1. A Philips-head screwdriver
2. Some type of tongs or clasps (to hold your part in boiling water. FINGERS = BAD IDEA)
3. RIT dye
1. As usual, disassemble your figure. Separate the plastic parts you plan to dye.
2. Note: You can ONLY dye parts to a darker color than their current color. In other words, white can be dyed to any color, yellow can only be dyed down to orange (with red dye) or green (with blue dye). You can use a color wheel (a google image search for “color wheel” will give you plenty) to figure out which colors blend down to other colors.
3. Set up a pot of water. Add the RIT dye and Acetone while the water is cold. Heat the water to approximately 150-170 degrees. It would be a good idea to test-dye some piece of plastic with the same plastic strength as your transformer part before you begin the dying process; hot water can bend/melt plastic.
4. Using your tongs, clasps or part on a string, dip the part into the mixture for 3-5 SECONDS MAX. Leave the part in for any longer and the part will begin to warp.
5. Let the parts cool down. Wearing a set of rubber gloves, rinse the parts off a few times in order to get any dye water out of cracks and crevices.
6. In my opinion, it’s probably best to let the parts sit for an hour or so, if for no other reason then to let the dye “come to rest” within the plastic parts. (Insane Galvatron says you can begin re-assembling as soon as the parts are dry, I’m adding this step as a cautionary measure.)
I'm not the one that started this nor am I the one that perfeted but this is the way I do it.I do not want to be in trouble for getting someone to do this that doesn't have a parental part in these type of projects.If you are an adult I suggest you take what I say here as the best to my own ability so it is not the only way of doing this.There are other sites out there that do this type of project and I suggest you do a search and get all veiws on the subject.If anyone has info they would like to share,please send a link and I will post that link to that site.
The things one needs
First off you need a pot to put the dye batch in along with the correct amout of water needed as directed on the back of the package.2nd,you'll need RIT dye.This can be found in most Laundry departments in Grocery stores such as Meijers or Wal*Mart.Now some people use Acitone in the batch to help the plastic take the color or to lighten it.Acitone is very Dangerouse is not handled properly.It is flamable so always remember to add it to the batch only before you heat it. Add water, Dye, and acitone and mix it well in warm tap water,then heat.
Now,with heating your batch make sure you have it set to well under boil for 5-10 min as needed.When you start your batch leave it running after you add your parts in to take the color but keep stirring constantly.You let the parts settle to the bottom or have the heat too high,it will warp the plastic.After stirring for about five min,check your parts.Are they taking the dye?Good,we should be on the right track and the parts stating to darken about now.Turn it off and continue to stir and checking randomly untill the parts are the depth of color you want it to be.If the batch starts to boil,turn it off and let it settle for a min.Keep stirring your parts though.Again,warpage is bad.
NOTE: Keep screws from taking apart your project and place them back into the posts they came out of to keep track of screws as well as giving you something to grip with your stirring spoon when dying your parts.
After your batch is done strain them into a steal strainer as to get any dye out of creases.Put that strainer befor hand into a cantainer that you can put the dye in.Use that container that caught the dye to pour it into the Storage container(See Tools of the Trade for more tips.) made from an empty Laundry bottle and store it away for a latter day.Try to do this after the parts have been seperated from the batch and that the batch is cool.
Place the parts back into the pot and fill it to the highest level of part in the pot with water and swish it in circles to get any loose dye out of the parts.Strain and do again untill you feel confortable you got all the dye out.
After that,place parts on a old towel and set it in front of a heater vent of the warmest area in the house untill dry.Do not set too close to the vent,if too hot it will warp your project also.
So remember! Keep stirring and keep checking!And place,try this out on some spare parts first!Get the feel for it,and then just have fun!
Please keep in mind,acitone is not the way you have to do it but my preferred choice.You can do it without acitone in the batch.If using, please do in a well ventalated room and ware a painters mask to keep from breathing in harmful chemicals.
I used the above methods when I first started out, and I did pretty well, though I did have one or two instances of warped parts. I have changed my methods and have so far not had a single bad incident. I have a cheap 2 quart pot that I use, tongs (not the kind with teeth, just curved loops), and a fish fryer hand-held strainer.
What I do is I fill the pot about 2/3rds to 3/4ers full of hot tap water. I set this on a stove burner set to high. While I'm waiting for this to get boiling, I bring in my dye (I use RIT Liquid, but there's nothing wrong with using their powder) and can of acetone, and lay out paper towels. I take one and fold it into quarters to lay my tongues and strainer on, one folded in half to hold under these parts with my opposite hand to catch drips when you carry them to the sink to rinse them off when complete, and then I lay out a piece of newspaper or magazine or catalogue to lay the parts on for drying.
Once the water has reached a boil, remove it from the heat and turn that burner off. Now, first add in about 3 cap-fulls of acetone. by cap, I mean the cap of the can. If you have a tiny size can that doesn't have a real cap, then use 4 spoonfuls. you MUST do this before adding the actual dye as it will make your water sputter as it reacts to the heat!! if you don't, then you will have a heck of a mess. After the Acetone is in, then add in the dye. I normally use 3 caps full, but for really stubborn parts (like alt shell pieces, classic seeker hands and feet) I use 6. stir this real good for a bit, and you're ready. For the really small pieces, lay them in your fryer strainer. for the large ones, just set them down in the liquid.
If you're simply dying black (GREAT for joints!!) just walk away and come back to see if the water's cooled or the parts are done. If you find the water cool, but the parts not done, remove the parts, rehead the mix to a boil, remove, turn heat off, and re-add the parts to repeat the bath. Seeker hands can take 8-10 times! most times first to third is plenty though.
If you're dying a specific color, note you can only go darker. That said, the base color also affects what you will get. Its like mixing paint. If the part is yellow, and you dye blue, its going to be a green. When you're going for a specific shade, you should check your parts every 20-30 seconds or you'll be mad when you find the parts a lot darker than you wanted since you didn't stay right on top of things!
When your parts are done, use the strainer for little ones, the tongues for larger ones, and hold a paper towel under them as you walk over to your sink to catch drips. rinse the parts under the tap, then set them on the paper and let them dry. you need to let these dry at least 24 hours honestly. they might seem dry before then, but if you don't do this, the dye WILL seep into your paint and dye the fresh paint!
(Superquad7: Also, here are some videos
Last edited by Superquad7; 09-07-2010 at 03:23 PM..
|09-04-2010, 08:10 PM||#2|
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Manchester, Jamaica
Collection Count: 50'ish..so many lost their lives
Re: Dyeing Figures
Being that a lot of questions have been asked . . . about dyeing, there's one important point that I've come across that I think could probably be put up for those interested. It involves RIT dye and acrylic paints.
While REDLINE in his last post suggested leaving the dyed pieces for 24 hours before painting, I would suggest instead after 24 hours, they be re-rinsed, and rub-checked (i.e. rub a piece of damp cloth over the parts to make sure that the dye isn't still active on the part surface).
If the dye color does rub off on the cloth, rinse thoroughly and wipe until no more dye comes off on the cloth. Then wait more hours and apply paint.
The reason for the extra caution came up from my experience of my WfC UM figure, where about 60% of the figure was dyed black using RIT black dye. I noticed that on using acrylic paints, the dye (even after a few days), would actually start dying the paint. I believe this is because the acrylic paints are water based, and any still active dye on the surface will simply mix and dye the paint (I went with about 10 coats on one piece, and every coat was dyed).
I gave the parts about 3 or 4 days after the paint was dyed, and tried again (with the same acrylic paint). While it was definitely not as bad, over time I would see that the dye was being mixed in (although more diluted).
On the pieces I took the precaution with, there was no extra dying. For the pieces that were continuously being dyed from beneath there was only one solution: I had to coat them with sealer layers which were enamels. This stopped any further propagation of the dye through the paint.
It should be noted, though, that only one coat wasn't enough; this stuff was tough. For the pieces that had the sealer coat paint, I put those directly on the dyed part with only one coat. While the paint was perfect and unaffected by the dye on its own, I put a coat of Future over it; lo and behold, it started getting a purple tinge as it dried. This suggested to me that the acrylic Future floor polish dried mixed with some still active dye on the surface of the part, though not completely sealed by a single enamel coat.
Also of note is that this didn't only happen for light colors. While white was the worst (obviously), it also occurred through blue and even silver paint. With these two latter colors which were applied thin single or at most double layers, the dye started coming to the surface once an acrylic sealer was sprayed on.
Maybe this is common knowledge somewhere and I just had a run of bad luck, but I figured if it could help I might as well give it a try and put it out there. Thanks, and take care!
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Last edited by Superquad7; 09-08-2010 at 01:39 AM..
|09-07-2010, 03:34 PM||#3|
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Zebulon, NC
News Credits: 11
(original source translated in English here: Google Translate)
If you've made it this far down the thread, then you'll be able to see that I'm currently in the process of adapting this tutorial for Radicons Customs Tutorials. Please be patience while this resourcing is done. ~Superquad7)
Gashapon courses useless in the village
Let's build your own figures to tweak (^-^) Gashapon
I also like getting Microman move came too (^-^)
More than 30 places in the body moving parts, ♪ You can pose a variety of
And now you can get prime field Materiarufosu the release of the variety of colors.
In addition, by now that there can be some white in it prime field
I'm the main K might want to try it myself since I saw the examples Microman's remodeling (^-^)
It is a favorite color prime field "color" ☆ is
Micro Man "Dye" For further information about me please refer to the main K is written, it's the site (^-^)
(Mr. Main is a link manager is already accepted.)
So through trial and error this time building up to something now "skin colored" I would like to introduce (^-^)
A hint to be released April Materiarufosu flesh-colored?
No problem (laughs)
It is a benefit that can be dyed with the colors of their favorite
The disadvantage is that it fails concave cost just minutes (^^
First, the easiest first "black" I tried to practice dyed (^-^)
Try Rockman dyed black body.
Washable paint color before all the drops.
He has bought the same thing at Tokyu Hands dye is introduced in the main site I (^-^)
This dye 1: 20 ratio of Thin water.
Work procedures were performed with reference to dye the main site did.
Hands, feet, remove the part of the shoulder,
Ri Mimasu decomposed body in the dye pot
Even black plastic rubber also染Me上Garimashita Epopate (^-^)
painted gray armor finish
Prime field then dyed with dye I noticed no one here is good paint color.
Tron is imbued with images of black dye on the armor is painted gray chest, now quite dark.
Me Geru plastic dye penetration condition is strong and
If you painted a white color is thought to be imbued with a black mouse.
The same was painted over several times.
That is its problem that affected the color of dye dyed dyed and painted later.
Reconstruction is advisable for you now please do dye sufficient to consider the point.
For example, when making prime field with dyed Kamen Rider black
Lateral line can be drawn in white.
I put a seal cutting, I have to settle for a gray line (^^
For decomposable prime field could be better to try different parts, so each can Me Ke (^-^)
Then, following the "skin" ☆ dyed advances the story
Acrylic resin is a liquid dye that
11 The number of 11 different colors (black rat brown peach green purple red orange yellow blue sky) but no,
No skin (^^
If mixing is assumed dying.
One day, those Orimashita skin is dyed with a dye for clothing in some micro-man board.
Not many types of garment colors, I decided to try it right away is close to the skin color (^-^)
400 I bought a sewing corner of the Peach Tokyu Hands (400 yen)
create a dye powder, so melt water
The results failed (^^
I think you need to understand and looking good
Shoulders, chest, abdomen, and orange parts of the waist and gloom (sweat)
Cause of the failure Tekito Dattari dilute concentration,
I can not pass it and no混Zenakya salt
The problem has gone about my (^^
But the wrist was stained with blood as part of cool (^-^)
Polycarbonate material is not,
Soft rubber (styrene elastomer) may be because it was.
Challenge is to continue Despite the failure of the skin dyed so (laughs)
This time came to buy a liquid acrylic dyes (^-^)
Mix pink and yellow skin (orange) ☆ create a color close to
Amount as described in (1 dye: 20 water) because I dyed it orange,
Thin to about half.
Dye working conditions (laughs)
1 pink: pink, so I put a Lot of feeling somehow get stronger and yellow color is yellow mixing ratio of 1.
100 Pan, measuring cup, washing nets Emashita 100 yen shop.
(I do work in the kitchen hall sweat and offline meetings remodeling Gashapon)
Please observe the proper temperature dyeing process and is written using the dye containers.
(^^ Bubbly boil That is out
Will be transformed from part (sorry!)
While watching the experiment with dyed plastic board try to adjust the density and color.
Is, after all, I'd need to dye stained Materiarufosu condition actually did understand, the reality is that (^^
dyed skin Materiarufosu
Parts are disassembled parts of dye, and imbue every creature.
First failure (sweat) pickling time is 3 minutes.
(^^ Become uneven
The cause is still a prime field from dyed and stained with dye powder gloom (lol
more successful pickling time is 2 minutes.
Gradient is a good feeling now that I dyed a subtle deep end a bit part (^-^)
Cleavage only remain absolutely white.
Hey why would (^^
Oh, it's shank is defective in both the left leg (perspiration)
Failures (left) and successes (right) comparisons.
Because two-color mixing and uneven or not able to stir well and dye Ki Ze.
So steeped in dye, and does not interfere with moving discolored but did not move any joint (^-^)
Hours vary depending on the weather dipping to dye stain.
I left it short and dyed a light time.
Pickling time of 2 minutes 1 minute 40 seconds left on the right.
How will you understand the difference between the colors?
This is the case of liquid dye and hand parts (styrene elastomer) is a strong feeling I have become yellowish.
45 45 seconds left. Dyed right two minutes.
Powder dye from the left, liquid dye, and the original ones.
Peach is a good wrist just like a powdered dye.
Matefoshisuta hand parts of Dubbo part by the dye (convex part) to rise, they may no longer inserted into their arms.
So it is better to fill the parts still dyed in the wrist holder.
Materiarufosu elbows and knees inside the glue that has been painted out to prevent the pin
I dyed it dark glue.
Who care about it cause uneven dyeing and fine polish is scratched with sand paper before dropping dye V might be a better melt glue and paint thinner in color.
With the thinner joints, however, recommended致Shimasen might break so much.
Comparison of skin color and molding Microman Sakura.
It is a bit more light skin color dyed prime field.
Sakura and Chun-Li can not replace the standard hand parts of it changed the way the wrist and arm holes (^^
V prime field falls thinner thin dyed colors (sorry!)
I tried it and was surprised inadvertently dropped what (^^
Can be part of this Me Ke.
The gap down and dye it would be difficult joint (^^
Also, V thinner surface stroked Remasu Please note that some color.
I just dyed black only mild left part of Chun-Li costume,
Material in different parts of chest and shoulder parts, changed the way the weather-stained.
If you are still part paint dye stain is difficult because it seems to be better down the paint.
Also, the shoulders and skirt this (styrene elastomer) is attached to the painted surfaces of the other dye (^^
Setamashitara foot wearing a skirt,
I gloom and stained molded rubber parts hips.
(V Tosemasu thinner color)
The polycarbonate is Kimasen.
Styrene elastomer coating surface from above
Dye may be best avoided (^^
Here is a styrene elastomer parts are molded of the wrist was fine.
Perhaps it would be difficult to penetrate the paint color.
What did you think (^-^)
They've made many failed, and I believe I could do something good.
Point to note is the concentration of dye,
Thin minutes can retouch (^-^)
If we fail darker colored by repeating the dyeing process in a short time, not suddenly think less time confit.
Ultimately, I had to adjust the concentration of the dye, while prepared to weigh dropper, so it now can add dye diluted with water and watching the hateful stained condition, and can measure the exact amount the (^^
Advantages, disadvantages that by dyeing white elementary bodies are like each
Can reduce the surplus parts can be replaced with new parts by the prime field.
The skin is made even adjust the concentration of the dye color to match the color of the Gashapon replace.
Joints were also wearing the color,
Maybe the attraction of permanent dyes yet even that (^-^)
Now try making your own original figures I suggest you also?
SQ7 is working on contributing a better translation for you.
Last edited by Superquad7; 09-08-2010 at 04:17 AM..
|09-07-2010, 03:35 PM||#4|
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Zebulon, NC
News Credits: 11
Today was a holiday from work tired this week it now deep sleep until 14:00.
Thinking of what to do I woke up, and I bought an item before you can try out.
Took out the milk pan, ladle net, thermometer .... Hiro apple blog or cooking changes to the content?
No, I Microman. Plastic dye SDN. Try colored paint!
If I wanted white or beige, red and blue colors most systems.
I'm trying to turn the color of yellow Matefo Closeouts this woman.
What color is closest to? I thought I bought the orange.
I'd like to change the color product images were then infiltrated with plastic dyes have heard so plastic, I'd like to cover the principle of such thin film coating on the surface of the acrylic block and see a sample of store display .
[Shop assistant film also does not fall after the top blew dye clear, [and with the erosion of coating and adhesive notes told me after I paint.
Matefo divided women as much as possible parts first.
The dye pot with water and seems to 20:1 ratio of mixing and mashing. Strong chemical smell pretty.
The thing that originally thermometer thermometer immersion deaths have Always rough.
The description of the package of dye, Matefo Polycarbonate material that is in [℃ 70 ± 3 ℃ 10 ~ I Murashii Special 5 minutes. Elastomer material of the same wrist in polycarbonate What should I write to no explanation?
Bathing is turned around from degradation Matefo ℃ 70. Time is set to take the middle 04 minutes. We will adjust the heat with temperature control.
Disconnect from the pot washing minutes and four parts.
Line dry kind of taking part. In such a color has not changed much?
Ieromatefo compared with the original colors and combine.
Color has not changed too much.
Dyeing temperature, time for commenting in such sense that no colored painted clear, changing the color of the ground it completely seems like a paint can.
Man painting clear plastic micro Maybe effective.
My intention, but I wanted to change the skin or the white and colored Ieromatefo out-of-kill.
What a dye the resin into consideration the effects of plastic damage, and I paint better given the amount of time and thought.
Last edited by Superquad7; 09-09-2010 at 04:50 AM..