With the way the arms are connected to the shoulders, Sunstreaker's arms tend to pop off the little peg rather easily when swiveling the arm around. Is there any easy way to fix this?
Hmm...mine hasnt had any arm/shoulder trouble. I have, as I stated earlier, had an issue with his back piece(aka "the front part of the alt mode") "clipping in place".
I think all your rants are what I'm also gonna share here. The left arm is quite loose on the joint and yes his front piece when you rotate it to bring his head up is not doing any good. Better to let him turn into Sideswipe atleast they are brothers I've been figuring out how I can make some improvements may be some kit bash gurus can help us I just got all of the 3 TF universe deluxes yesterday and I also won TF A optimus and megatron through a super hero trivia contest for being first place. And the good part is having TF Animated Jazz.
the arms on my are very snug. They were actually hard to separate when i switched hands and shoulders to make tigertracks. Maybe you just need to push really hard....they should click when there in
The arms on mine pop off occasionally and the important thing to remember is how to have them twisted so that they don't. Here's a good example of the wrong way: The arm on the left there is rotated in such a fashion that it's likely to fall off when being posed or transformed. I can also think of two other fixes that are increasingly more involved. If you have spare twist ties laying around (who doesn't?) shave the plastic off of one of them so that it's just the wire (watch out they're sharp without plastic) then use that to wrap around the upper arm. I don't know how successful this would be but it should be fairly un-obtrusive. The other one is to get a tiny amount of putty and shape it into a half circle that fits snugly on the opposite side if the slot and glue it into place and paint it black. That's probably the best solution, and also the most involved. Personally, I just twist the arms the right way and they don't come off very often. I recommend trying the solutions I've suggested in the order I've suggested them and then come back here and let others know about your degree of success.
I don't have the arm problem but I can make a few suggestions. It depends on what might be causing the problem. If the yellow post or black mating piece, are deformed or have a burr. Then you will need to remove it, but be careful. If you remove too much the joint will be loose but make sure you do not touch the two tiny raised nubbs that are on the forward edge/sides of the black piece. These are what hold the yellow piece in. If they are, already, too small or damaged, then that is why the joint seperates so easily. (but I think it is the previous problem). If no burr or deformity can be found and the nubbs are intact. you can shave a small amount of plastic from the back edge of the black piece. (The back edge would be the area straight in from the opening) By shaving this area then you will have less pressure on the nubbs. But, only cut a very small amount and do not shave the sides and there will be less chance of the joint becoming loose. (If the joint becomes too loose then you can add a drop of superglue and keep moving the joint until it sets). Question: This is the first I have heard of the "Super charged weapon" ( from the other topic) and assume that you mean to use the "gray" pieces to flip around the gun? In this configuration, the gray pieces didn't want to stay attached to the gun so I shaved off the 1 raised detail piece, from the dome area in front of the blocky piece, and then filed down the blocky piece, top and two angled sides, and the supercharger stays on. (the angled pieces were the main problem along with the raised detail, piece). I hope this wasn't too confusing. This is the only way I know how to describe them. I hope this helps and, always, be careful with any sharp knives (I don't know if you are a novice or experienced, kitbasher).
