I didn't pay close to what a complete one would be, which is a positive. But if needs be I'm sure I can recoup the majority of the money back reselling it (listed as KO of course). I think a lot of people like the figure from G1 but just don't wanna mess about with the cost and the hunt for all the parts to make one up. So a KO will be a fine alternative for them

 

Yes Ko's do have some positives about them especially if the quality is on par, thou i would prefer a ya i am a Ko package at least over the full on KO approach of making official packages boxes look likes, but okay with those that sell the boxes without figures.

 

I got me a g1 menasor today, but I wanted to make sure he was legit and not a knock-off. Heres some photos

 

Alright chap, I received a knock-off set in a bulk buy ages ago and these are some of the QA issues I found with the one I had;

- Dead Ends bonnet is very difficult to move
- Drag Strips head will go into the arm port but not properly
- Motormasters chest will come off when you pull off the roller from Menasor mode
- the roller will also not clip on properly anyway
- one of either breakdown or wildriders legs will now swing around and stay open properly in robot mode

Also, here's a page with a couple of things pointed out;
Menasor

hope this helps

 

Thank you, now after reading through this article and what you said, This Menasor is real. That makes me a whole lot happier  

 

well considering this is the often spotted KO i think your good.

 

Hi Guys,

Newbie member here. I just want to get some opinions from the G1 Dinobot Experts in this forum regarding 2 loose Vintage G1 Slags that I got from different sellers:



Using the HighendTF's/Coolyooyou's comprehensive G1 guides,
both figures appear legit when I compared their details to Coolyooyou's Slag Pics:

Slag 1:







Slag 2:









I was however curious as to why their copyright stamps were different, where Slag 2 had the original Takara 1980's stamp while Slag 1 had an additional Macau and Hasbro label in its stamp.

Slag 1:


Slag 2:


Does anyone know if there was a "Macau-release" of Slag? I'm starting to get suspicious due to these additional stamp details on Slag 1.. kind of a shame as these vintage G1s are pretty costly and I was planning to purchase the seller's other G1 dinobots. Thanks in advance for any opinions you may share.. I plan to get my facts straight as he is a reputable seller of vintage toys even among celebrities here so questioning him would cause quite a stir in our local community of collectors LOL

 

I am a -10 on a scale of 0 through 10 as an expert...that said, seems legit as you'll get returns when you punch in Takara Hasbro Macau on the internets.  

 

Dinobots will be harder since the company making the g2 versions went belly up while the molds were there and they got sold off even thou it was hasbro/tt that owned the molds... ya it's messed up.

 

Hello all, I would like to get some advice. I am interested in getting the G1 KO Ratbat, Overkill, and Slugfest.

1. How does the quality compare to originals? Is there anything to look out for? I especially want Ratbat, so I would like to know any QC issues if anyone knows.
2. What is the best way to get them, aliexpress or ebay or somewhere else?

 

Thanks for sharing your feedback, I appreciate it

 

Indeed, I read the detailed G1 articles and it appears that while the dinobots were not reissued, they still had various releases in the 80s... for Slag, there was even a Canadian release IIRC  

Unfortunately, there is no detailed pictorial on the stamps of each and every release of G1 Slag so I guess I'll just base my judgement on the various surface details shown in the articles instead of the stamps, which may vary from 1 release to another... both my Slags appear legit based on those details.

Oh well, in consolation, at least the Snarl that I got was easier to assess... its translucent head was a dead giveaway LOL  

 

If it is a G1 Macau release, it's apparently pretty rare. From Fredsworkshop (the only info I could find related specifically to a Macau release):

Here's the whole article with G1/G2 mold variations and pictures.

FredsWorkshop.com

 

Cool article, thank you so much for sharing. I'm glad I decided to do further research before ranting to the seller of the Slag in question LOL... he is afterall an owner of a local toy museum so accusing him might hurt his pride/reputation, not to mention ruin future possible deals LOL. Funny thing is, I aked him before why he charged almost double for that particular crummy old Slag compared to the usual prices of loose G1 dinobots.. he just smiled and said do some research so here I am pestering the TF boards  

Anyway, I decided to recheck both my Slags using the reference pics in your shared article and their tail connectors don't have tabs making them G1:


Upon inspection, their surface details are also pretty identical to one another, as well as to the G1 samples in Coolyooyou and your shared article. There is however one minor detail that they differ on and that is the number on the inside of their wings with the Japan release stamped number "1" and the supposedly Macau one stamped what appears to be "2L":

Japan:



Macau:


When I have time, I'll scrutinize the figures more closely for other subtle differences. Anyway, I'm just glad I consulted here because I was actually planning to get rid of this "Macau" Slag because it's pretty old and I already acquired the Japan release, which is in better shape... but now, after learning all these interesting info, I think I'll hold on to that crummy old Slag a while longer. After all, doing research on old items is just as exciting as collecting them.. here's to hoping that I come across someone with a Macau Slag in the future so we could compare notes  
Thanks again for all the help, I really appreciate it  

 

You do know those came out of different molds. Those circles are from push pins that release the injection after casting and cooling.

 

Yup, that appears to be the case given the difference in stamped number and placement of ejection pin marks. I'll continue to look for other differences between the two.

 

Ya love to see this all nitpicked i am sure some dinobot fan could be like oh ya that was made on this date between 10 and 11 by this person at this location and so on hehe.

 

LOL yeah, this sort of reminds me of our forums in another hobby of mine (model ship building) where in we would argue over trivial things like the placement of a specific grating in a particular 18th century Brittish frigate... one member would say the contemporary navy board model of the same class of ship shows it to be 4ft aft of the foremast, while another would say that the ship's contemporary plans at nmm shows it at 3ft.. then another would say that according to the ship's log, it was originally 3ft in 1776 but was moved to 4ft in 1778 and the arguments would go on for days.... fun fun fun LOL..
I wish another dinobot collector would suddenly pop out and give me a similar experience here... the subjects are not as old as 18th century ships, but just as fun to talk about LOL

 

Hi guys,

I have yet another G1 dinobot question, this time pertaining to Snarl. I got myself a G1 Japan version in loose but good condition, however, upon scrutinizing it, I got excited and transformed it a couple of times resulting to breakage of the gray tabs near the tail connector hinges (I keep forgetting that decades-old platic can be brittle)  




Fortunately, I was able to find a possible donor, which has intact plastic tabs, but seems to be another version (G2 or KO?) based on its closed tail hinges as compared to mine, which has open tail hinges.

Donor Snarl:


My Snarl:


Is it acceptable to switch these particular parts given that they are from different versions?
Secondly, assuming that it's OK to exchange these parts, could you guys share your opinion if this donor Snarl is legit or a KO, based on its pictures below?




Thanks again for any opinions you guys may share  

 

The molds do degrade like they had to fix Jazz's face so in Snarl's case, they made the joints a hair larger likely because they had issues with the plastic not getting into that area or having issues when being ejected from the cast or flat out breaking. My guess is the difference of using metal then going to plastic.and they found it was not thick enough.