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Old 08-09-2008, 12:14 PM   #21
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Cropping Out Objects ala Fun-ness!

I figured that if I was going to do a tutorial on motion blur, I may as well start with the very basics first.

It's not the best way, it's not the easiest way, but it's the Fun-ness way.
(Note: I am using Photoshop version 7.0. Icons, tools and functions used may vary on different versions)

In a nutshell:
Use the PEN TOOL (P) to manually trace out the object you want to crop.
Turn the traced layer into a selection.
Cut it out, and do as you will with it.

In detail:
Desired effect: Saber leaping towards Devastator, sword drawn.

Base picture (resized and sharpened using IRFanView).

Fire up Adobe Photoshop and select the PEN TOOL (P).

Zoom in (through the VIEW tab or by pressing Ctrl++) and begin meticulously tracing, dot by dot.

IMPORTANT NOTE - Trace the inner edge of the object, not the outer edge, or parts of the background will get cropped with it as well.
USEFUL NOTE - Pressing the TAB key will get rid of all menus and toolbars to make tracing easier. Press TAB again to undo.

Might want to set the trace layer opacity to 0% to stop the PEN TOOL (P) from filling itself up with colour.

Finish connecting the last dot, right click the trace out and choose MAKE SELECTION. Alternatively, Ctrl-click it.

Select the background layer (I made a copy of it called "bg copy" in case I mess something up), and then copy and paste the selected cut out.

Hide the background to see your results (by clicking on the EYE symbol near the layers).

Touch it up (like erasing parts of the background that got cropped as well).

If cropped object looks too "solid", use the BLUR TOOL (R) to blur out the edges (I usually use 25% strength).

In this case, I don't feel it necessary.

Now just copy and paste Saber as a layer underneath a cropped Devastator.


Resize her using the FREE TRANSFORM tool found in the EDIT tab, or by pressing Ctrl+T.

IMPORTANT NOTE - Hold the Shift key while resizing to maintain the original aspect ratio.
USEFUL NOTE - Hovering the mouse around the corner of the box allows you to rotate the cropped object as well.

Reposition her using the MOVE TOOL (V), throw in some LENS FLARE for a little more oomph (Found under FILTER > RENDER > LENS FLARE)
And that's it! All done.

In some cases, you might want to create a shadow for the cropped object, so that it'd look more realistic.
To do so, go to LAYER > LAYER STYLE > DROP SHADOW and tinker around with the settings.

There are many other ways to crop objects, one of which is using the EXTRACT TOOL (Alt+Ctrl+X), or even simply the POLYGONAL LASSO TOOL (L), but I find the Pen tool to be more precise for the job.

^On a stick!^
(Updated 22nd Feb 2013: Making Up For Lost Time)
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Old 08-11-2008, 07:04 AM   #22
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Motion Blur Tutorial (Photoshop) - Easy Peasy for the Lazy XD

Normally, you'd have to use a pen or lasso tool to outline an object, cut it out and then "motion blur" it. Wanna do this in a quicker way? Here's a way! It's not very appropriate, but it still gets the job done.


Get an image ready, and go to Quick Mask Mode. Press Q to do this.


With your BRUSH tool (Press B), increase the size to about 130+ pixels (depends on how big your image is) and "colour" your object to be cut out.

In this example, I wanna cut out the black bison, so I'm "colouring" it. XD

(You may want to use an AIRBRUSH, but it is optional.)

After "colouring" your object, it should be something like this:


Now, exit Quick Mask Mode. (Press Q) After that, press Ctrl+J to cut out your object.

Now, go to Filter --> Blur --> Motion Blur to get started on the blurs.


Set the distance and angle you're comfortable with, then click OK.


"Drag" your new blurred image backwards a little, so the front of the original object can be seen.

Next, decrease the opacity of the object. You can do this by clicking a box that says "Opacity" at the top-right of your tools pallete:


In this example, the bison is attacking Brawl. I did not add an impact effect, so the collision isn't very clear. Anyways, according to Newton's third law, a force applied to a body has an equal and opposite reaction. So, that means Brawl would "vibrate" or "react" to the collision.

Thus, go back to Quick Mask Mode, "colour" Brawl (or could be someone else in your comic) and cut him out, the same way like earlier.


Okay, so Brawl is reacting to the collision. Add the motion blur, but now decrease the distance. If you use the "same distance" as the previous motion blur, your picture might show Brawl and the bison charging at each other instead.


Decrease the opacity and there you have it! Simple procedures to making motion blurs!

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Old 08-11-2008, 09:53 AM   #23
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Motion Blurriness ala Fun-ness!

It's not the best way, it's not the easiest way, but it's the Fun-ness way.
(Note: I am using Photoshop version 7.0. Icons, tools and functions used may vary on different versions)

Prerequisite knowledge: (Not required but preferred)
Tracing and cropping out objects.

In a nutshell:
As with cropping, trace out the object you want blurred.
Copy and paste it in a new layer.
Erase unwanted blurs.

In detail:
Desired effect: Saber being knocked back after a parry from Devastator.

Base picture (with Saber's stand already erased out):

Use the PEN TOOL (P) to roughly trace out Saber.

Make a selection of the trace out. Copy and paste Saber into a new layer.


Tinker with angle till you get something that feels right.
I generally blur it at a strength of 5-10, just to give the feel that the object is in motion.

IMPORTANT NOTE - You might want to create another copy of Saber for the blurring, just in case you mess up.

Now make a copy of that blurred layer above the original (or below, depending on whichever looks nicer).

Blur this new layer at the same angle as before, but with an insane strength of >200.

This is to create a motion "trail" effect for the object.

Erase out the unwanted parts.

Hmm, the insanely blurred layer looks wee bit too "thin", let's create an additional copy of that layer to make it stand out.

Do the same for Devy's arm, and that's it!

Alternatively, you could use the SMUDGE TOOL (R) instead of the MOTION BLUR filter to achieve a similar effect.

While you're at it, do experiment with the other blur filters. Some of which may very well come in handy for other effects...

^On a stick!^
(Updated 22nd Feb 2013: Making Up For Lost Time)
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Old 08-18-2008, 03:18 PM   #24
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Easy and Cheap Cybertronian Interiors: Walls, Floors, and Columns.


Walls and floors:

Silver and gold posterboard
Old corrugated cardboard
Some sort of glue
A Ball Point Pen

1 - Draw panel lines on the posterboard with a ball-point pen. Make them nice and dark. Use old cartoons for reference. I usually break the whole thing up into a checkerboard of 3" x 3" panels, then subdivide the panels into semi-random rectangular pieces, trying to keep the subpanel joints staggered.

2 - Glue the posterboard to a cardboard back to add stiffness. I used a glue stick. Spray cement would be stronger.

That's all! I like to use contrasting colors for walls and floor. The old cartoon usually showed Autobot walls being orange, and Decepticon walls being purple. I like silver and gold better.

Paint paper towel cores with cheap gray paint. I use $3/quart mismixed latex from the paint store, and string them on a broomstick to dry. Then, using a Sharpie pen, add panel lines. I do this in various ways, but a frequent one is to draw parallel rings all the way up the column, then split them with vertical, staggered seams. That's it!

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Old 08-19-2008, 06:18 PM   #25
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Here's how I make speech bubbles in GIMP:

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Old 08-20-2008, 07:25 PM   #26
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Massive shockwave effects you will all hate me for!

Originally Posted by Otispq View Post
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And why? Because Bryce 3D users are much rarer than Photoshop users.

Programs used: Photoshop CS2, Bryce 5

It was requested of me to make a tutorial about how to make the shockwave effect as seen in this panel of my comic, Prime Time!

Sadly, I don't have the pictures from that phase of my comic anymore, so I can't use the originals to recreate it. So instead, I'm going to use a completely new picture.

Assisting me today is Figma Saber. (isn't she just so darn helpful?) Oh yeah, and Landmine. I'm sure he loses this battle.

The first thing I'm going to do is prep this picture for the effect. I start by using the Quick Selection mode to select my characters.

And then, using techniques similar to what was discussed by ZUDON and DilaZirK, I will add a radial blur technique.

Next, I boot up Bryce 5. This is sort of my trump card, because it's a really easy to use, low end 3D design program, suitable for adding a little extra snazz to a webcomic.

Once booted up, it will automatically place me in a blank environment. The thumbnail in the top left hand corner is the preview shot, if I were to render this scene right now, that's how it would look.

Most of the controls on the left side have to do with camera positioning, and I'm not going to move anything, so that's unnecessary.

My first step is to prepare the scenery. Thankfully, they already have more presets than you can shake a stick at, and one of them just happens to be a blank black environment, with no shading, fog, or atmosphere. If there were anything in my background, it wouldn't be useful to me for compositing.

Next, after selecting the ground plane and deleting it, I create a sphere by clicking on the sphere icon, and centering and enlarging it using the edit tools. (steps not shown. If anyone would like a more detailed explanation, please PM me!) Now, I need to turn this featureless gray ball into an explosion!! That takes texturing. Again, thankfully, the team at Macromedia included a massive amount of textures, and in the complex FX, I find the ones I want.

Now I take my spray render tool, and render a section of the sphere. You will notice that the edge of the rendered image is smaller than the edge of the actual object. This displacement is caused because this particular texture is a volumetric one.

That's the outer shell of the explosion. Now I copy and paste that sphere, and scale in down slightly, making what will be one of the core explosion effects. I select a new texture map, and then copy/paste and scale again, making the explosion a bit more complex. In retrospect, I should have changed up the settings on the innermost sphere's texture map, so it didn't look doubled, but I felt that would be a bit more in depth than what people wanted. Again, if you really do want that, PM me, and I will edit it.

Here is the picture again, after I have used the spray render to preview a portion.

Next, I need to increase the resolution of the image, since I'm a freak of nature and do all my comic work in 2MP. (1600x1200) Again, thankfully, with a simple click of the mouse, I can fix that. I go to File>Document Settings, and click the button that renders it at three times normal resolution. That way the aspect ratio and size of my working space is the same, but I render more pixels.

And then next I render!

For those of you who are eagle-eyed, it did not take me all night to render this image, only about 20 minutes. I just had to stop and pick it up again the next day. Anyhow, my render is done, and I bring it into Photoshop!

Next I'm going to drag it into my working file, and set the layer properties to Screen. And I'm going to move and scale it to go how I want it.

And then I'm going to recenter it, and have some fun. First, I add an Adjustment Layer, Hue/Saturation. I click the box for Colorize, then move the slider to a cool blue color. I also increased the saturation. Don't increase the lighten slider, because that will screw up your overlay. When done, hit Ctrl+Alt+G to parent that layer to the shockwave layer. That way the Adjustment Layer doesn't affect the rest of the image.

NOTE!!! That Ctrl+Alt+G is a HUGELY useful tip! Since I discovered it, I have found myself using it more and more.

Next I just added a Radial Blur to make it a bit more spiffy, and revealed all the rest of the layers. Using Guides to zero in on the impact point, I moved the explosion to that point.

And lastly, I added in a bit of a lens flare at the impact point, to coolify it! Ta dah!!

Again, if this tutorial sucks, PM me, and I can fix it.

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Last edited by Chaos Incarnate; 04-13-2009 at 01:24 AM..
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Old 08-30-2008, 11:20 AM   #27
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Simple Explosion effects

A few people have asked me how I do my explosions, so here goes. Like all other great tutorials in this section, I don’t claim my way is the best, or produces the best results. What I’m showing you is simply the method I like best, because it’s fast, and I’m lazy.
I’ll demonstrate how to do this on poor Sunstreaker here, using Adobe Photoshp 6.0. You can still follow along even if you don’t use photoshop, since most image packages have similar functionality.

Firstly, I do all my special effects before I resize my comics to 800x600 for posting.

1: Create a new layer and draw some circles using the paintbrush tool. I overlap several of them.

2: Then I use the burn tool, and draw around the edges of my circle cluster, which darkens them.

3: Right click on the burn tool, and select the dodge tool. Lighten the center of the circle cluster.

4: Now click on the smudge tool (If you don’t see this icon, right click the box I’ve highlighted and select it). Using a small brush size, I draw the circle out. Do this all around and through-out the circle.

5: For extra effect, smudge a few sections really far out, then use the eraser tool to cut away the connecting ‘strand’, so you end up with a few isolated sections out away from the center of the blast. Now we’ve got a funky pattern with some depth to it, since we’ve essentially mixed our original, burned, and dodged colours together. Right-click on the layer and chose blending options.

6: Now check the outer and inner glow boxes, then click on outer glow. I like orange-y explosions, so I chose that colour, but you can chose any you like. The key to making this look good is making sure Element Technique is set to Precise, and anti-aliased is checked under quality. Play around with the Spread and Size functions until you find settings you like. Likewise play around with the Inner Glow function until you find something you like. I find the results more variable with Inner Glow, so I won’t spent any time on it, other than to say I likewise set Element Technique to Precise, and turn on and anti-aliasing.

7: Now copy your entire explosion layer and paste it in. Here’s where you get creative and bring the explosion to life. I use different layer settings for each of my subsequent layers (color burn, screen, multiply, whatever), as well as different Inner and Outer glow settings. I’ve used “colour burn” here. I often re-smudge each layer too, so each layer is subtly different than the preceding one.

8: Now we’ll deal with those ‘isolated strands’ I mentioned in step 5. Create a new layer, and copy layer 1 into it. Make sure your new layer (layer 3 in my example) is nearly perfectly aligned atop layer one. You may want to set layer 2’s opacity to zero to help you. Right click layer 3 and go to the blending options again. Check both Inner Shadow and Drop Shadow, then click ok.

9: Erase most of the layer except for the stand areas, and set the layer opacity to about 65%, or whatever you like. The effect I’m trying to create here is that pieces of metal or debris are being blown out from the center of the explosion. I didn’t do it too well here, but like I said—I’m lazy.

10: Once done, copy layer 1 or 2 and paste it in as layer 4. Set it to colour burn and add an outer glow. This helps blend the dark sections of layer 3 a little better.

11: Now we’ll add a bright center core to the explosion. Create a new layer named “Explosion Core”, and use a thin brush tool to paint some white in the center. Use the smudge tool to create a now-familiar star-burst pattern. I then add a pure white Outer Glow, but here I usually LEAVE THE ELEMENT TECHNIQUE SET TO SOFTER, and don’t add much spread or size to it. Of course, you can do whatever you want! That’s it for a basic explosion, and it only takes a few minutes.

Some (Slightly) Advanced Stuff

12. Create a new layer named “sparks”. Select the Magnetic Lasso or Polygonal Lasso Tool, and draw some lines radiating out from the explosion (I used both tools in this image—the straighter sparks were made with the polygonal tool). Fill each one with colour by using the fill command (EDIT->FILL).

13. Add and Outer and Inner Glow to the sparks. If you want, add a new layer called sparks core and use the brush tool to paint white on the end of the sparks. You can use the Outer Glow function here as well.

14: If you want to really spruce it up, create a new layer and name it radius. Select the brush tool and set it to 999 pixels by right-clicking where I’ve indicated. Select whatever colour you wish that’s in your explosion—again, I’ve stuck with orange.

15: Paint a circle on the image, then select the eraser tool and set it to 997, and carefully place it so you erase all but the outer edge of the circle (you probably can’t see the circle now in this tutorial, but it’s there).

16: Set the opacity of this layer to “screen” (if you’ve chosen a dark colour) or “overlay” (if you’ve chosen a light colour). Then—you guessed it—add an Outer Glow to it!
You can distort the radius by using the transform function if you don’t want a perfect circle. I haven’t done that here, but it’s useful in certain situations.

Closing Comments:

Whatever you do, take your time, and save your work in a format which allows you to edit your layers. That way, once you’ve created an explosion you really like, you can use it over and over again (like I do). Just rotate the image, use different glow effects, and the explosion will look unique every-time you use it!

Last edited by StarFire_MK2; 10-22-2009 at 08:46 PM..
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Old 09-06-2008, 09:41 AM   #28
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Presenting.....TCracker's Absurdly Simple Method To Glow-Glow Eyes!

First, you need Photoshop. I use 7.0, old but functional.

Open the file you want to photoshop

Here I chose BA, simply he wants to volunteer

Create a Layer

Use the Lasso tool (circled in RED) and outline the eyes

If you have more than 1 area to lasso, just hit the shift key and go ahead with the next area you want to lasso

After that, use the brush tool and brush over the lassoed area with white

Then, to Layer > Layer Style > Outer Glow

From there you can play with the settings until you acheive the desired glowy-ness

Once you are satisfied, hit OK and save the file

There, easy as pie.
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Old 10-06-2008, 11:27 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Otispq View Post
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Okay, today I'm going to teach you how to make a Bubble Shield in Photoshop. I'm using Photoshop CS2, but I think most of these instructions are backwards compatible.

Step 1: Play some Halo 3.

No, really. Grab a bubble shield, activate it, and just stare at it. Look at it from the outside, look at it from the inside, go all around it, and get a feel for how it looks. If you don't have Halo 3, your life sucks, dude. I mean, get some reference pics off the internets.

To start, get your picture. I'm using the same image of Master Chief and Saber that I used in my comic.

Next, you need another reference shot. Something that you can use to make the pattern on the shield. I just did a search for geodesic spheres. You can do the same thing, or you can scalp the picture I found. Now, add it to your picture as a new layer.

Next I'm going to resize and reduce the opacity of the image. I've rotated it so that I can take advantage of some of the lines later.

The next thing to do is to make a selection that's just as large as the bubble. In Photoshop, if you click on one of the rulers that run the left and top edges of the picture, you can drag a ruler onto the picture. The Move tool will move them if you wish.

Drag a ruler to each edge of the circle. Soon you will have your working area surrounding your work area. Now, grab the Rectangular Marquee and make a selection of your area.

Make sure you have the image layer selected, and not the sphere image. copy the selection, and then make a new document. Photoshop will automatically use the dimensions of what you copied into your clipboard as the dimensions of its new document. Once open, paste your selection into it.

Next we are going to apply a couple filters to make the basic look of the bubble shield. First we are going to go to Filters>Distort>Glass. This filter will make a vaguely rippley look to the image. Please play with the modifiers to achieve the effect you want. I admit that I should have toned down the glass filter a bit.

Next, go to Filters>Distort>Spherize. This will add a rounded bubble look to your image. I chose to go about 75% of the full effects, because that looked best to me. As always, making images is art, and it's not yours without some of yourself in it.

Now you are ready to start putting the picture back together. Select the entire image and copy it.

Okay, paste it into your original image, and put it over your background image, but under your geodesic image.

Now, you know how you can make really straight lines in Photoshop by clicking with the brush, and then holding the Shift key and clicking somewhere else? Well you can do the same with most brushes, including the Smudge tool. Basically we are going to play connect the dots. I've highlighted the dots in this shot:

Now, double check that you have the geodesic image up, but it's at about 35% opacity. Enough that you can see it, but not so much that it gets in the way. Also double check that you have the underlying layer active. The one with the effects on it. This is where you want the smudging to be, using the overlying layer only as a guide. Now, take your smudge tool, and simply click on one of the intersections I highlighted. You can see that this shape can be divided into many hexagons and one pentagon. We'll start with the pentagon. Click on one intersection and then move to the next one. You can hold down Shift if you wish, but Do Not drag the brush. Then, holding Shift, click the next intersection, and the next one, and the next and so on. After you come back to the original intersection you should have a neat little pentagon, like so:

Now expand the pattern into hexagons, and continue across the entire surface of the shield. Hide and reveal the geodesic template as you see fit, to get a better look at the image, and soon it will look like this:

Now, if you feel the need, go back over some of the lines with a smaller smudge brush to get better visibility out of them. Some line I smudges three or four times until I was satisfied.

Next, use your Pen tool to make a new path. This path will define the edge of the bubble. Remember when I said that I rotated the geodesic image to take advantage of some of it's lines? Well here's why. The shield bubble is not a perfect sphere, but is inset into the ground a bit, so a view of it would not be completely circular. I'm circumscribing the circle, and adding a shorter arc to represent that.

Once you have your path made, in the Paths Palette, at the bottom, there is button that says Load Path as a Selection. Click it. This will deselect your path and instead make a shape of marching ants.

Now, in the Layers Palette, click the button at the bottom that says Add Vector Mask. The glassified parts in the square around the shield will disappear.

Now for the final step. I'm going to add a little more visibility to this effect. In the Layers Palette, click on the Effects button. First, add an Inner Glow. Make it completely white, and fade it out to about 20% opacity. And make it fairly large. My glow extends about 200 pixels into the shield. Now, click to add an Outer Glow. Make it white as well, and make it's opacity the same as the inner glow. Make this glow considerably smaller, since it's only purpose is to soften the edge of the shield. Click Okay and you're done!

Now you have yourself your very own shield bubble! Go make a comic!

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Last edited by Chaos Incarnate; 04-09-2009 at 01:57 AM..
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Old 10-09-2008, 03:06 AM   #30
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Cloud/smoke brush

Originally Posted by Otispq View Post
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Hey again! I'm back, and this time with another new technique. This is something that Photoshop does, but in all the years I've used this program, I've never used the feature.

I've been working on making good smoke effects for a long, long time, and have been mostly failing at it. Finally, I decided that what I needed was a new way of painting those pixels on, I needed a cloud brush. That, my friends, is what I will be teaching you today.

I am using Photoshop CS2 on a Windows platform.

Step 1: Make a new document

I simply made a new document, 500 pixels by 500 pixels. Easy stuff here.

Step 2: Make Clouds

Now, what you are looking for here is clouds that are mostly black and white. The clouds filter makes a random pattern, so just keep repeating it (Ctrl-F) until you get something with a good definition.

Step 3: Make Selection

Take your Lasso tool (and for once I actually recommend the default lasso, every other time I use the polygonal lasso) and make a roughly round shape that includes light and dark areas.

Now go to Selection>Feather and make it about a 10. This blurs your selection by 10 pixels.

Step 4: Make new document

With your selection selected, just hit copy (Ctrl-C) New Document (Ctrl-N) and Paste (Ctrl-V). This makes a document the exact dimensions of your selection and pastes it in there.

Step 5: Eat a Sammich

Go ahead, I'll wait...

Step 6: Create the new brush

Go to Edit>Define Brush Preset. Now, in all technicality, your new brush has been created.

Step 7: Edit Brush Properties

So, we got the brush made, you can even use it and everything by going to your brush selection and getting it from the very bottom. But, if you notice, the stuff you make with it doesn't look anything like smoke or clouds. Now you must edit the properties of your new brush. With your new brush active, go to the control palette on the top and open the Brushes blade. Make sure your new brush is selected, if not, then simply click it on the bottom of the list. You can edit your default brush size here, I like to make it a nice round number like 100. One more thing to remember: When making your brush, it's basically taking the image you defined, and stamping it a bajillion times to make the stroke. So, if I refer to the image as a stamp, bear with me. These options affect just how it gets stamped.

Step 7A: Brush tip shape

Click the next item in the list, immediately under Brush presets. There is one very important option here. The spacing must be modified, and you will probably want to tweak this again, so remember where it is. This will affect how closely together the stamps are.

Step 7B: Shape Dynamics

Here is where you start to inject some randomness. Smoke is random in nature, (actually, all fluidic motion is a chaotic system) so we want to jumble it up.

The first slider says Size Jitter. This controls how likely it is to change the size of the stamp. Let's move this to 100%. Next is minimum diameter, this controls how small the stamp can actually get, randomly. Since we don't want lame tiny specks, let's move this up to 50%. After that, go to the Angle Jitter. This will randomly change the angle of the stamp. Move this to 100%. This will do for now.

Step 7C: Scattering

Smoke and clouds like to bloom out and have little offshoots instead of staying in their place. So, what this option does it affect how far the stamps will deviate from the actual position of your brush.

Click the box for Both Axes, this will affect distance in both X (the line of your stroke) and Y (perpendicular to X). Then put that slider wherever you want it. I only wanted a little deviation, so I put it at 66%. Keep an eye on the preview at the bottom.

I put the count at 2, since 1 seemed too thin, and 3 seemed too thick.

Step 8: Test Drive

You can't be expected to buy something until you test drive it, right? So open up an image and play with your new brush! Here's my test. Something's not quite right though, everything is flat looking. The brush is stamping them in the same shade of color. I don't really want that, so it's back to the Brushes blade.

Step 9: Color Dynamics

Back in the options, click on Color dynamics. This will make it do the stamps aren't all the same color. Make your settings something like mine. Feel free to play with it, of course, but I found this to work pretty well. What it does it takes the foreground color, and mixes it with the background color. The jitter slider changes how strong that mix is.

Step 10: Other Dynamics

Just for fun, click this box to throw in more randomness. Again, the settings are what I felt was good. Feel free to pick your own.

Now, after testing it again, I find that it works great!

Step 11: Play!

What's this shiny new brush good for? Anything smokey! For instance, by picking a dark gray foreground color and a mid gray background color, I can make cool smoke, like in this shot:

Maybe it's Prime's funeral pyre...

It can also be used for big fluffy clouds. Here's a giant Master Chief standing tall!

That's all I have for now! Keep on running those editing programs, and don't get discouraged! Remember, every success stands on the shoulders of previous failures. So go out and make comics and have fun!

Xbox Live Gamertag: Xakimus Prime
Nintendo 3DS Friend Code: 2492-4127-7270
My Shapeways Store, Chaotica

Last edited by Chaos Incarnate; 04-08-2009 at 03:35 AM..
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