Ops_was_a_truck's Exhaustive Kitbasher’s Resource Thread

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Plenty of threads post up on Radicons’ Kitbash Forum which pretty much read like this:

“Hi, I am new to kitbashing and would like to turn (Transformer A) into (Transformer B). What should I do? How do I do it?”

Additionally, the same threads pop up repeatedly – how do I dye parts? How do I paint this part? How do I avoid paint scuffing off of a custom? The questions go on.

THIS THREAD AIMS TO TACKLE ALL OF THE ABOVE QUESTIONS, AND MORE!

I present you Ops_was_a_truck's EXHAUSTIVE KITBASHER’S RESOURCE THREAD!

Come back often, as Ops will update the resource thread often!

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1. GETTING STARTED

A. Some terms

If you have never, ever repainted or kitbashed a transformer ever in your life, it’s start you with some very simple terms:

A KITBASH is the process of taking one Transformer toy (or some toy) and converting it into something different. The degree of complexity in the kitbash varies.

A REPAINT is just that – a repainted Transformer toy.

A DIGIBASH is the process of DIGITALLY repainting or kitbashing (see above) a Transformer. The digibash does not exist in real life (which is unfortunate, in most cases, because Slayer’s digibashes look really awesome.)

B. Basics of kitbashing/repainting: A quick “repaint” project

Some of the most basic repaints simply involve taking a Transformer apart and repainting him. This is a simple process and can be a lot of fun. What follows is a step-by-step guide to a very simple repaint, including suggested paint types. Note that this is being written from personal experience, so other kitbashers may have slightly different methods.

Let’s assume that you’ve purchased a Transformer, have an idea of what color you want him to be (let’s say, for this example, you’re repainting him in red) and you’re ready to go.

You will need:

1. A bucket of soapy water (trust me)
2. A can of Testor’s basic Red spraypaint (available at most hobby stores)
(You can experiment with different types of spraypaint, too…a clever spraypaint called “Fusion,” made by Krylon, is some of the most durable plastic-adhesive paint on the market these days…there are also Japanese model master spraypaints as well.)
3. A can of Testor’s glosscoat (often spelled “glosscote” by them, because they think they’re cool.)
4. Sandpaper
5. A model knife
6. A Philips-head screwdriver

OPTIONAL:
--Goo Gone
--Paint solvent (most people use Testor’s, although I have heard of people using everything from Palmolive up to brake fluid to strip parts)

PROCESS:

1. Take the entire Transformer apart, using the Philips-head screwdriver to unscrew EVERYTHING. Regard your pieces carefully and decide which parts of the car body you want to be painted red and which parts of the robot “guts” you want to be painted red (or, do you want to just leave the robot guts as their original color?)

IMPORTANT: KEEP TRACK OF YOUR SCREWS!!!!!
2. WASH YOUR PARTS IN SOAPY WATER! You never know what type of grime either your fingers or the assembly workers’ fingers has gotten on your reissue. You want the parts to be completely clean and ready to accept paint.
3. You need to remember something important: You are repainting a toy with moving parts. Because of this, you are adding additional layers of paint to a toy that was designed to function with one layer of paint. In other words, you’re increasing the mass of your toy. You will have to sand down some of the parts so that the Transformer can still transform correctly.

Locations to sand include (this is NOT a complete list, just examples)

On G1 figures: where car doors meet the die-cast hood area
On Armada/Energon/Cybertron figures: a seam – i.e., where to repainted parts will meet
On RID/Alternators figures: fingers and joints

4. You may go two ways at this point. You can
A) Strip the car parts of all pre-existing paint by using a solvent and/or the sandpaper
B) Just start painting. Sometimes, this can result in the original paint job “bleeding” through your new paint job, so beware.

WARNING! When you are painting the parts, make sure that you are spray- painting in a room with plenty of ventilation! If that stuff kills ozone, it’ll do a doozie on your lungs!

Remember that there will be certain parts of the Transformer toy that no one will see when the toy is reassembled (plastic chutes made to hold screws, the undersides of car hoods, etc.) Hold your part there while spraypainting in order to create the effect of a “completely” painted part.
There are several neat tricks that model-builders use to keep their painted parts from touching a surface. Here are a few:
A. You can jury-rig a “grabber claw” painting rig by cutting out the center of a coat hanger and attaching alligator clips to either end of the coat hanger. Then, hang the coat hanger somewhere where you can easily spray paint the dangling parts.
B. Hold ‘em with thumb and forefinger! Not the best idea because it covers your fingers with paint, but hey – when all else fails…

5. Give your parts about a day to dry (12 hours minimum.) Then, using the same process mentioned above, go back and spray all of the parts with glosscoat. Now, the glosscoat is optional, but I highly recommend it. It will give your parts a “toy-like” gloss shine and it will also seal in the paint from minor scuffs. Remember that, before, we also sanded the parts down so that they should now move smoothly despite having an extra layer of paint. Once the glosscoat dries, test-fit some of the parts back together to see if you have to worry about paint wear at joints or corners. If so, sand that corner/joint down and repeat steps 3 & 4.

6. The best part: Re-assemble! If you have kept track of your screws and your parts look nice and shiney, then start re-screwing that sucker back together. Remember that you will likely have to check out all sorts of reference pictures if you can’t remember where so-and-so part goes, so be sure to check out the tfw2005.com galleries of your toy, if you get lost.

That should do it! You now have a repainted figure.

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2. ADVANCED TECHNIQUES

A. Dying

When Daniel said, in Transformers: The Movie, “Prime, you can’t die,” he was partially right. If he had said “Prime, you can’t dye your metal parts and your plastic parts can only be dyed to a shade of color darker than your current color scheme!” He would have been spot on.

I haven’t done many dying projects, so a lot of this knowledge is pooled from the multiple threads on the subject here at Radicon’s and from Transtopia (www.tfmaster.com) Before you start, check out these links:
http://www.tfmaster.com/articles_dying.php
http://webpages.charter.net/mpalze/
(Big credits to Devita for those links, from the thread “Changing Translucent Colors on TF figures”)
Also check out this thread:
http://www.tfw2005.com/boards/thread67168.html
…in which Insane Galvatron dropped the knowledge bomb on all of us. (NOTE: Most of the instructions below are from this thread, so I extend a gracious “Thank you” to Insane Galvatron.”)

YOU WILL NEED:
1. A Philips-head screwdriver
2. Some type of tongs or clasps (to hold your part in boiling water. FINGERS = BAD IDEA)
3. RIT dye
4. Acetone

1. As usual, disassemble your figure. Separate the plastic parts you plan to dye.
2. Note: You can ONLY dye parts to a darker color than their current color. In other words, white can be dyed to any color, yellow can only be dyed down to orange (with red dye) or green (with blue dye). You can use a color wheel (a google image search for “color wheel” will give you plenty) to figure out which colors blend down to other colors.
3. Set up a pot of water. Add the RIT dye and Acetone while the water is cold. Heat the water to approximately 150-170 degrees. It would be a good idea to test-dye some piece of plastic with the same plastic strength as your transformer part before you begin the dying process; hot water can bend/melt plastic.
4. Using your tongs, clasps or part on a string, dip the part into the mixture for 3-5 SECONDS MAX. Leave the part in for any longer and the part will begin to warp.
5. Let the parts cool down. Wearing a set of rubber gloves, rinse the parts off a few times in order to get any dye water out of cracks and crevices.
6. In my opinion, it’s probably best to let the parts sit for an hour or so, if for no other reason then to let the dye “come to rest” within the plastic parts. (Insane Galvatron says you can begin re-assembling as soon as the parts are dry, I’m adding this step as a cautionary measure.)
7. Re-assemble.

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B. Styrene additions

Virtually anything can be built using styrene plastic – from extra weaponry to a completely new car-body exterior for your Transformer. It can be bought in strips, sheets, tiles, etc. at your local hobby store. Styrene can also be used to rebuilt certain pieces of Transformers that are prone to break – thick, .50 styrene can be used to rebuild G1 Optimus Prime’s trailer door latch, which snaps off a lot.

However, building anything with styrene is a much more exacting process. Note that you are essentially fabricating a new part for your transformer, but you’re doing it the hard way: You’re building it from blank sheets of plastic, which you will cut and paste and sand into the right shape.

YOU WILL NEED:

1. Anything you needed for the previous repaint project, depending on what you plan to add/modify/re-build
2. Glue, particularly Cyanoacrylate glue. I use the local model store’s stuff: “Handibond.” There are other versions out there, including Sealtight and Zap-A-Gap.
3. A hobby knife, scissors, an X-acto knife, a pocketknife or whatever you feel comfortable cutting plastic with. (A chainsaw, maybe?)
4. Sandpaper.
5. Styrene plastic – you’ll have to choose which thickness and patterning you need for your design.
6. Pencil and paper
7. Creativity, luck and plenty of patience

1. Sketch your idea out on paper. You don’t have to be a master artist, just capable of getting a basic idea of the size and shape of your new part, as well as approximate lengths, widths, etc.
2. Using the paper sketches, begin transcribing your sizes over to the pieces of styrene plastic. Pencil writes easily on styrene and, since you’ll be repainting the piece later, you don’t have to worry about errant pencil marks all over the thing.
3. Cut out the pieces you’ll need from the styrene, using whatever cutting device you’ve chosen. Note that an X-acto knives and pocketknives often offer a more accurate cut, while scissors will cut through most styrene plastic like a hot knife through butter.
4. Sample-fit your parts together, checking to see if there will be any gaps or blatant errors.
5. If all looks well, grab the glue and start sealing pieces together. A nice little trick is that, if you’ve accidentially covered the part with glue or you’ve got a small seam, you can use the glue to fill that seam…and once the part is completely dry, you can sand down all areas where there’s too much glue, creating a smooth surface.
6. Use the repaint guide from above to paint your part.

You’ll note that the styrene how-to is a lot more generalized. This is because styrene projects range from the mundane to the magnificent; people do a lot with styrene model-building.

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Finally, the part you’ve all been waiting for:

RESOURCES:

I want to stop before I get into the resources and strongly advocate something. This is half-soapbox and half-instructional, so bear with me.

I don’t think Transformer kitbashers/repainters have an idea about the types of resources that are readily available to them. What follows is a VERY abbreviated and simple set of resrouces for kitbashers.

A. Other Model Builders

Transformers kitbashing is, by any other name, kitbashing. It has gone on since plastic G.I. Joes hit the scene years ago and will continue to go on for as long as there are plastic toys. However, I think a lot of Transformers kitbashers – novices and advanced ‘bashers alike – are not aware of the model-building community and its interest in the very same stuff: Changing plastic miniatures so that they look like/do something else. That is why I recommend, before anything else…

VISIT A MODEL-BUILDING CLUB.

Sure, some of the folks at these places are a little weird. Sure, they know a little bit too much about the paint-detailing on one certain type of plane. However, there is one thing they all share a common passion, and that is for creating accurate and believable model kits. Not all of what they’re doing transfers over to the world of Transformers kitbashing, but there’s a high likelihood that if you can’t find an answer here on Radicon’s or on Transtopia or anywhere else, you can find it by asking model-builders in person.

I’ve been part of the IPMS (International Plastic Modelers’ Society) for three years now, and I’ve enjoyed every meeting I go to. The best way to get answers at a meeting is to ask your question to some of the members who have a whole lot of kits on display and just listen. Be an observer. You will likely hear more shortcuts and simple “how-to’s” on painting, detailing and kitbashing in one model-building meeting then you will have a chance to process.

The IPMS’s global website is www.ipms.com. There are other model-building clubs and agencies out there, some of which are local, some of which are state- and nationally-organized. Another way to find a local model chapter, particularly for IPMS chapters, is to search the name of your region/state/county and “IPMS” on a google search. For example, searching “IPMS Northern Virginia” brings up http://www.novaipms.org/

If you’re any sort of kitbasher, you will have loads of fun at a model-building meeting.

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B. Books

Sure, you’re all internet-savvy and you think everything is accessible at the tip of your google-search-clicked finger, right? WRONG. There are a lot of great, “actually-written-on-pieces-of-paper” books out there that explain the kitbashing process I outlined above in much better detail. Get to the library and check ‘em out. Two of the ones I’ve used for years are:

1. Bob Hayden (ed.) Styrene Modeling: How to build, paint and finish realistic styrene models (2000). Evergreen Scale Models, Woodinville, WA.
2. Creed, Roscoe. How to build Plastic Aircraft Models: A Complete How-To-Do-It guide to basic and advanced modeling techniques (1987). Kalmbach Books, Waukesha, WI.

C. Web sites

A google internet search and some digging can be the be-all-end-all answer to a lot of the basic “how do I?” questions when it comes to kitbashing and repainting. However, there are some sites on the ‘net that are more particularly worth visiting.

For Alternators and REALLY DETAILED kitbash/repaint projects, check out:
www.tfmaster.com – tfmaster’s Transtopia

For just about any spaceship or science fiction kitbash/repaint project, check out:
www.starshipmodeler.com – Starship Modeler. The name says it all. They also have an AMAZING references section.

Not surprisingly, a google search for “kitbash” will give you plenty of Transformers kitbash sites as well.

I have a feeling that all of these lists will grow exponentially over the next few weeks, so keep your eyes on this thread. Until then, have fun making new toys from your old ones.

[AutobotSDG]

Addendum to #1, stripping the paint:

An easy and most effective way to strip a transformer of its original paint is to use Isopropyl Alcohol. It can be bought at any retail store like Target, Wal*Mart, Walgreens... whatever is in your area that has a pharmaceutical area. Pour the Alcohol in a bowl, I personally use one of those plastic Glad disposable bowls that have the lids, either all or some doesnt matter because it can be stored to use again with the lid. Take the transformer apart like normal, and put all the pieces that you want to strip into the bowl and let them sit for at least 24 hours, but the longer you let it soak the better. After which time, the paint should just wipe right off. I personally use an old toothbrush to get into all the detail areas... some extra dipping into the alcohol may be necessary (the part, not you) but otherwise it should come right off. Sure its a little messy, but not near as messy as Goo Gone or even sanding.

NOTE: This only works on factory applied paint apps.

Now, lets say you have a piece that you repainted yourself using whatever paints you prefer, but it didnt quite come out the way you like and would like to start over. In my experience I have found that the Alcohol doesn't strip this very well although it does seem to weaken it. To remove that paint in a similar fashion to the Alcohol, I use Castrol Super Clean. Yes the stuff you find in the Automotive section, big purple jug. Follow the same directions as the Alcohol and there ya go.

[Ops_was_a_truck]

"The_ONE" dropped by the Radicon forums and posted this INCREDIBLE explanation about how to mold and cast YOUR OWN TF parts:

----------------------------

Why would I want to mold and cast my own parts? Good question! Here are some of the things that motivated me to try it out:
You can make multiple "chips" of Transformer pieces and try out different paint schemes on them. This let's you see all the paint schemes at the same time and you don't need to strip the part between tests.
You may want to modify part of a Transformer. You can cast the part that you want to modify and instead of modifying the original you can modify the cast. You can try a number of different modifications. If you don't like any of the modifications then you can still use the original part.
When sculpting your own items, like a base, you can cast the part when it is done so that you have a robust final part. Sculpey remains fairly soft and bendable even after hardened and is still too fragile to use as a final part.
If you are sculpting your own items you can make casts at various stages so that you won't lose much work if you make a mistake or damage the fragile hardened Sculpey.
By doing it yourself you can see how the different types of artifacts (seam lines, air bubbles, warping, etc) can occur. You can also see how long it takes and how much it costs. These things can bring a better appreciation of the reasons behind the quality and price of Hasbro/Takara Making Molds and CHANGES to a mold.
And as if that isn't enough, it's pretty fun to do it!
So What Are We Going To Do?
To keep things simple I'm going to use a very simple Energon Weapon for the master part. This means that we can make a 2 part mold. Remember this article is for beginners!



Before you start on a project like this one you need to make sure you have all of the materials that you will need. Here is what I used for this project: cardboard, tape, scissors, two plastic tubs, two craft sticks, mixing cups, 4 marbles, Vaseline, Resin Dye Experts Choice two part mold material, and Fast Setting two part resin. That's it!

The sequence of steps to mold and cast a part is pretty simple:

Make a box to hold your master part to be molded
Mix and pour the mold material
Pull the master from the mold
Mix and pour the casting material
Pull the cast from the mold
Of course, the details of how to do each step can be pretty complicated. Let's not waste any more time, now we'll jump into the details!

Make a Box
For this project I decided to make the mold box using cardboard and tape. It's cheap, easy to work with, and does the job. When laying out the box, make sure you leave enough room around the part so that the mold will be thick enough to keep its shape. You can simply create a rectangular box that will hold your part.
If your part is large and irregularly shaped then you may want to add some filler to take up some of the unused space. It's worth the effort to add the filler because the mold material is fairly expensive. A good tip: recycle old molds by cutting them up into parts and using them for filler.

When your box is built you can set your part in it and move on to mixing and pouring the mold material. Since we are using a weapon, we want to make sure that the box is on a level surface so that the mold will be level when it is done and we can easily pour the casting material into it without having to worry about leveling the mold. Next you need to take blob of clay and place it in the mold box. Coat your Weapon with a fine layer of Vaseline to prevent sticking of the mold/clay materials then Press your weapon onto it gently just so the bottom is covered. This will act as a barrier for the mold to set around so your weapon is not completely sorrounded by the mold materials.


Mix and Pour the Mold Material
There are some really quick hardening mold materials available. These are great if you are making casts in the middle of a project or only want to cast a couple of parts. For a final part where you want to make a lot of casts you would use a different type of mold material.
I used Experts Choice Quick N Easy A&B Low Viscosity Mold Putty in this case. It cures in 20 minutes, is good for a small number of casts, and doesn't require the use of any release agents. It is very easy to use, simply mix equal amounts of part A (black) and part B (white) in one of the plastic tubs. Stir slowly so that you don't introduce air bubbles. When the mixture turns a uniform gray you are ready to pour.

Pour the mixture slowly and let it run into all of the cracks. It's kind of like pouring syrup on pancakes. Take your time and let it spread all over so that air won't get trapped anywhere. . This is a 2 part mold and you will need to make 2 sides to the mold. Then you just need to wait 20 minutes until the material has hardened.
Flip The Pancake Mold
Ok its been well over 20 minutes and you first half is now dry. It is now time to flip your mold over to complete the second half. To do this just simply flip the mold over so that the top now becomes the bottom. Gently remove the clay from the weapon and get ready to pour the second half of the mold. Again Place a fine layer of vaseline on the top of the whole mold and weapon you have just cleaned to prevent the new mold materials from sticking to the bottom half of the mold you just created.Take the 4 marbles you have and coat them in a fine layer of vaseline. Place 1 marble in each corner of the box. And repeat the pouring process to complete the mold itself.


Pull the Master
Since we are molding a weapon we end up with a 2 part mold that is really easy to use. Cut the tape around the edges of the box with an X-acto knife and then peel away the bottom and sides. Now you should be able to see the seam of the 2 part mold. Bend the outer parts of the mold away from the part to loosen them up. Then just bend back one side of the mold and start to work the part out of the mold. Don't bend the mold too far or the mold material may crack. Now you are ready to cast some new parts!

Mix and Pour the Casting Material
I used 2 part clear resin to cast my parts. This is a two part resin consiting of Curative (clear) and Isocyanate (light tan). When the two parts are mixed a chemical reaction takes place that heats the resin and causes it to cure. Thicker areas in your cast will cure more quickly because they have more material and thus generate more heat. Thin parts will cure less quickly.
2 Part Resin is easy to use, just mix equal amounts of Curative and Isocyanate. Place resin Dye in the mixing cup Stir slowly for 30 seconds so that you don't introduce any air bubbles. Now slowly pour the mixture into the mold. Again, take your time and let it spread all over so that air will not get trapped anywhere. But don't take too long because you only have a couple of minutes before the mixture will begin to thicken. Then step back and watch it "kick"! It should get cloudy then turn white. It gets pretty hot when it kicks, so be careful.

If you will be pouring more than one cast you might want to use two measuring cups: one for part A and one for part B. Then pour both parts into the plastic tub to mix them. Since you never mix the two parts in the measuring cups you can reuse the measuring cups over and over without having to clean them.


Pull the Cast
In a matter of minutes the part should be hard enough and cool enough to pull from the mold. To pull the cast follow the same method as used to remove the part. First loosen up the cast by pulling back each edge of the mold. Then bend back one side of the mold and work the part out of the mold.

Consume Beer and Doughnuts
And there you have it, a casting of your original part. Time to celebrate by consuming some beer and doughnuts!


Wow that went smooth! A perfect part the first time, cool! Um, er, well, maybe I edited things up so that it would be easy to read. I did have a couple of problems.
The first problem was I didn't have enough mold mixture to cover my part and fill my mold box! So I had to quickly grab some filler and try to stick it in the big gaps. Next time I'll make sure to do a better job estimating the amount that will be needed. I'll also make sure I have some filler on hand before mixing and pouring.



Just Do It
There are lots of uses for reproducing parts for kit builders as well as sculptors. With the great materials that are out there it is easy and fun. Molding and casting should be a skill in every modelers bag of tricks!
Warning Warning!
OK, kids: don't try this without an adult helping out. Both the molding and casting materials can be dangerous.


Do not take internally. Keep out of reach of children.

As a saftey precaution, all Por-A-Kast systems should be used in a well-ventilated area and skin and eye contact should be avoided.
Thanks Guys!

------------------------

Once again, thanks to The_ONE for this information.

[Ops_was_a_truck]

More awesome info from The_ONE:

"
Acrylics off Vinyl
"Use Lestoil! You can submerge the kit in it either full strength (gets expensive fast), or you can dilute it (takes longer to soften the paint). Let it soak overnight, or as long as you want, and then go at it with a stiff brush - no metal bristles. It doesn't affect the vinyl at all and if your paint job is recent it will come off even faster. Remember to thoroughly wash the kit before repainting."

"Lestoil is a cleaning solution, similar to Pine-sol, and should be available at any Wal-mart, Venture, Target, what have you. You may also wish to try Easy-off oven spray, or "Purple Stuff" from the automotive department of your local department store."

Paint off metal
"Has anyone tried Easy-Off Oven Cleaner for removing paint? I have had some success on metal figures with this. I don't know what it would do to vinyl or resins. Maybe it gives off too much heat?"

Oils/Lacquers off Plastic, Vinyl and Resin
"Finally, an ally on the 'Easy-Off' front! Yes, I've been using it for years. On plastic (styrene, plasticine, polystyrene), vinyl and resin. Mostly on oils and lacquers, so I'm not sure what effect it will have on acrylics. Leave on for about 1 hour a coat (includes primer coat). Rinse off with warm water and dish detergent scrubbed lightly with a toothbrush. Only problem I've encountered is with incompatible paints. e.g. If I've accidentally painted a lacquer over an oil (with Krylon primers this is easy to do), then the Easy-Off takes a little longer to take off the "curdle" of paint (maybe a second application)."

Off Polystyrene, Squadron white putty and Model Master cement
"Go to Wal-Mart's Automotive section (or K-Mart) and look for 'Purple Stuff' (Castrol Super Clean). It removes paint quite well, and will most likely do the same for the primer. Allow the kit to soak in a bath of it mixed with water for a while, checking frequently. A toothbrush will help to clean it up as well. It does not harm polystyrene, Squadron white putty and Model Master cement. In addition, it is relatively innocuous and biodegradable. Probably would be endorsed by YOUR MOTHER." Acrylic off Vinyl and Resin

"Pine-Sol WILL work, I usually let it soak in a bucket for about 3 days. After that the paint usually comes right off with just tap water. I have used this tactic on vinyl, resin and kits with success. If you are in a hurry to remove the paint use Easy Lift Off from Polly S (I believe), that will remove paint in a hurry, just brush it on and brush it off!"

Acrylics off metal
"Tip of the day: On this subject, for those who don't know: When stripping acrylic from metal minis soak the model for a hour in a) Pine-Sol (for my American brethren), a pine-based disinfectant or, b) Dettol or similar for European, c) scrub with an (OLD) toothbrush. Use a dentist's tool to clean out grooves, etc. Remember to wear rubber gloves if you don't want to leave a layer of skin behind you 24 hours later."

Water-based paint
Enamels off vinyl
Paint off Polystyrene
"Surprisingly enough many water based paints will comes right off with alcohol. If you are stripping a vinyl kit and need to get off enamels you could just use lacquer thinner or acetone (though I suggest gloves and a respirator with these chemicals). You don't want to use harsh solvents on a polystyrene kit (your basic model car kit for example) .

"

Thank you so much, The_ONE, for hella useful kitbashing tip goodness!

[Ops_was_a_truck]

I keep trying to get back to this thread and keep forgetting about it. I just posted this for Crackerboy:

GUIDE TO PAINTING STRAIGHT LINES:

1. Pick up some blue painter's tape at Home Depot or Lowe's. Use a combination of that and paper (or whatever you want) to mask of everything except for the stripe you want to paint.

2. I assume you're painting Hasbro plastic. If so, pick up a can of Krylon Fusion (available at Michael's, Wal-Mart, amongst other places.)

3. I figure you can make the jump from A to B here and figure out you'll be spraypainting. THE KEY TO STRAIGHT LINES IS LIGHT, LIGHT APPLICATION OF SPRAYPAINT. Spray your vehicle from at least 2 feet away, lightly, with the Fusion ONCE - i.e., run the spray across the surface ONE TIME. Then WALK AWAY. Then come back about 5 minutes later and do it again ONCE. Repeat until you've got a clear, solid coat.

See, I used to fuck this up a whole lot by masking off my lines and then just going to town, loading down an area with spray. When you pull up the tape, you get shitty-ass lines with lots of bleeding. If you spray ONCE, let the paint set, come back about 5-10 minutes later and spray again, (wash, rinse, repeat) you'll get a nice, clean line.