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by Hook

Ops_was_a_truck's Exhaustive Kitbasher’s Resource Thread

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Old 02-02-2006, 04:08 PM   #11
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Thank you. I've promised myself some repaints/kitbash attempts on Alts when I get back, and this is fantastic. And honestly, although it's embarassing to admit it, I always wondered how folks used spray paint on different parts.
It never occured to me that they...took the toy apart.
Genius.
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Old 02-15-2006, 10:00 PM   #12
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Lobo, an absolutely amazing kitbasher over at tfmaster.com, posted this tutorial on removing pins:

http://www.tfmaster.com/articles_pin.php

No better source for pin removal. This guy knows it all.


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Old 03-20-2006, 01:38 AM   #13
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I posted this over at Transtopia, a while ago:

I know, I'm not the only one who's run into this. Some parts are made out of plastics that paint simply won't adhere to. Alternators hands and spoilers come to mind.

The April 2006 Model Railroader has a short article on a solution to this. (they love to make little detail parts, and handrails out of acetal plastic) Before painting, spray the parts with a coat or two of Specialty Perfomance Products Plastic Adhesion Promoter #SXA 1050. You should be able to get it at automotive paint suppliers. It's distributed by PPG, and comes in a spray can.

It's a bit pricey, though. According to the article, it's about $15. I'm guessing that this would also work well to prevent chipping, on regular plastics.
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Old 03-20-2006, 02:08 AM   #14
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Trying to get back into the habit of using this thread for its stated purpose...

I've messed around with Denatured alcohol over the past few nights and it does NOTHING to clean off Transformers paint. So far, Purple Power (sold in the Wal-Mart Automotive section) and the Isoprophyl Alcohol (anything from 70%-90%, the stronger the better) are the only things that really cut through Transformer paint if you're clearing a part.

Again, help with that comes from AutobotSDG.


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Old 03-20-2006, 10:23 AM   #15
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I've discovered that on transmetal parts that the color has flaked off, but the chrome remains, colored sharpies touch it up quite nicely. I did it to my RID Prime's chest and he looks like he just came out of the box.
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Old 03-28-2006, 07:09 PM   #16
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Weathering and aging, as posted a few minutes ago in a thread Redline started:

use three different methods for adding weathering and age to both my model kits and my TF kitbashes. Each of them has different degrees of usefulness.

Note - I work with the Ral Partha acrylics. I used to use the regular Testor's enamels but I found that A) I had more skill mixing and matching with acrylics and B) I'm lazy, so wash-up is easier. Your personal mileage may vary.

1. Dry-brush weathering: One can of matte black and one wide-bodied brush. Dab as much paint off of the brush as you can by "painting" a piece of newspaper with the excess paint. You want your brush to leave streaks of black (or just particles of it.) Test on spare parts until you've got the right effect. Matte Brown and Silver work as well, especially when combined; you get a nice "flaking paint, covered in dirt and grime" look.

2. Wet weathering: Honestly, I've found this works best with acrylic; I can't remember ever experimenting with enamels when I did this one. Dip your brush in water, then dip it right into the paint. Run it over the newspaper a few times until you've got a really runny residue of black paint. From there, you just go to town dousing the model kit/TF with the same mixture of water & paint on your brush. This fills in nooks and crannies REALLY fast, while leaving the outer shade of paint a bit darker. I love the end effect.

3. Similar to what sculpt-bot suggested, a quick tap of airbrush or spraypaint, from a good distance away, adds some interesting fade effects to a model kit. The best reference for this is any fan-made X-wing model kit.

Here are some end-result references for dry-brushing:
The head of this Y-wing:
http://www.starshipmodeler.org/gall...22106_ywing.htm

The nose of this Y-wing has a lot of airbrush weathering:
http://www.starshipmodeler.org/gallery10/ts_xwing2.htm

The ISD Glory, which I built, combines all 3:
http://www.starshipmodeler.org/gall...21306_glory.htm


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Old 06-06-2006, 11:05 AM   #17
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I put up a tutorial over at Transtopia that shows how I sculpt up custom heads for my kitbashes. Take a look!
http://www.tfmaster.com/forum/viewto...708bf8a05788bc
I think you may like it, Hook!
Hope this helps some of you guys plus up some of your projects!
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Old 06-13-2006, 12:45 AM   #18
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Aight, decals out of your own pocket:

First off, you have to decide whether or not you want to do LABELS or DECALS.

LABELS:

1. First off, you need the label paper!
As stupid and easy as it sounds, a google-search for "glossy paper labels" found me this site:
http://www.worldlabel.com/Pages/paper-labels.htm
In reality, all you need is glossy label paper to make the decals look near-Hasbro professional. MAKE SURE YOU GET LABEL PAPER THAT WILL PRINT TO YOUR TYPE OF PRINTER. If it says they're "inket only," don't buy 'em for a bubblejet printer. It won't work. I've tried.

2. Design the decals in photoshop or using MS Word or whatever you want.

3. Print the decals onto the label paper at the HIGHEST dpi resolution you can set your printer to. The easiest way to do this is, when printing, if you click on the "properties" button in most Windows "print" dialog menus, you'll see three options for "fast quality," "good quality" and "Best quality." Click on best and start printing!

4. Cut and apply.

DECALS:

Decals are a bit harder, and it's taken me years to get to a point where I feel comfortable doing a good job with them. Still, if you think you know what you're doing with decals, here's what I use:

1. The paper:
I use Experts-Choice Decal paper. It's Item No. 122 from their catalog. They're part of Bare Metal Foil Co., in case you're trying to hunt this stuff down. It prints great to inkjet printers.

2. Design the decals, similar to how I explained above. You'll also want to print the decals out the same way.

3. Making the decals stick: Pick up some Microscale Industries Liquid Decal Film (Microscale Industry's listing for this product is MI-12.) Once the decals are done printing, apply one coat of this <u>LIGHTLY</u> over the decals. Allow it to dry. If you're real worrisome (like me) you can apply two coats, but MAKE SURE TO DO ONE COAT IMMEDIATELY AFTER THE OTHER. Doing one coat of microscale, letting it dry and then doing another causes your decals to become brittle during the application of them.

3. Pick up a Testors' Decal Set and Decal Solvent pack at the local Hobby Shop. This is a green card-back, one-brush-and-two-paint-vials package with both Decal Set and Decal Solvent. The instructions on the back of the card are PERFECT for making sense of applying the decals, so I'm not even going to write it here. If you have trouble finding this stuff, let me know and I'll go find more product information on it.

4. Although a lot of this is duplicated on the Solvent &Set package, I'll put it here too:
-Cut the decal to exactly the shape you want
-Put it in water (I usually use a clear glass bowl, so I can find the decal if it spills over)
-Allow it to sit for at least a minute or so (or until it slides off the paper)
-GENTLY pick up the decal - still on the paper - and place it on the model kit.
-THEN slide the decal paper out from under the decal. Looks nice, eh?
-IMMEDIATELY start blotting the wetness away from the decal with a tissue or napkin.

Once the decals are dry (wait about a half-hour or so) you can do the final step.

5. Using Testors Glosscoat (that's my personal favorite, others might use different stuff,) apply several thin spray layers of gloss coating to your decaled surface. This will lock the decal in and make it "one with the paint."

That's it! Allow the glosscoat to dry, of course.


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Old 06-27-2006, 12:03 AM   #19
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Apologies for not posting something that is not a more concrete addition, but I have noticed that part of the thread needs updating. The part that needs updating would be the third post, the one on dying. Both the 2nd and 3rd links are no longer valid, leaving that information out of easy reference.
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Old 06-27-2006, 09:27 AM   #20
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If you're seeking more information on dying, it'd probably be best to drop by the tfmaster forums and ask them for more hints. I'll see what I can do about the links.


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