Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by Snaku, Apr 16, 2017.
That new head design is beautiful! Hope it turns out as good as it looks
Will the feet fit without any modification to the ankles?
No. I was working on a version that would fit but I realized that, even if they did fit between the ankle covers, it would block the ankle tilt completely. Also I didn't much like the ankle covers so I decided it was worth it to just cut them off. It was either that or design entirely new legs below the knee which I actually was considering doing.
Thank you! I hope so too. The stuff I've seen from Shapeways' Black High Definition acrylate has been very impressive so I'm optimistic it'll look good.
Update on the head/neck/collar. It's getting pretty close. I need to add the embossed details on the collar, the hinge to the front of the collar for transformation, and put a peg hole into the back of the face and cut into the forehead a little to match the inside of the helmet. Then create a few more faces. Then set up sprues for all of the pieces and send it to shapeways and see how it comes out. I might have my buddy print the collar piece on his printer first, just to be sure it fits right and works for transformation. Pics below. Also some pics of the current build assembled (using tighter temporary pins and with the screws installed so that she is posable without falling apart.
If you print this using the high def shapeways stuff beware you can't sprue it - each has to be individual parts which means it ends up being amazingly expensive!
Amazing work though so far dude
Yikes! Why would they make that a rule? Well crap, I'm gonna have to reevaluate this plan cuz there's no way I'm paying for all those individual parts. What about fud/fed?
[Edit] I looked into it and it looks like it's not a hard rule but designs with sprues often get rejected due to making it difficult to align for printing and difficult to process after printing. I'm gonna go for it and see what they say: as much as I want this printed, there's no way I'm paying the insane costs for printing 5+ individual pieces.
Well you relly just need the face and helmet in high detail. The rest could probably be printed by your friend. If he print in ABS that is probably to prefere over the SLA materials (you may even want to print the inside of the head in ABS and put the balljoint neck, eyes, face and helmet on that)
Also, I sugest you conect the top of the face with the botom of the helmet so the back of the face and the helmet opening both face down. This mean the print support will do the least damage. (I'll draw you a picture tomorow when I get to my computer)
Damn this looks good.
Keep it up man!
So here is a crappy picture.
The first is what I tried to say before, link the top of the head with the bottom of the helmet so the spur mark is hidden and the support do little damage.
I then came up with the other version where more of the back of the helmet get support marks but nothing on the front. It will also be easier to remove support as it wont be inside the helmet.
Finally a little tips to print the neck lying down so the layers go along the neck. This make it much less likely to break if you try to get the ballpoint out again.
Good luck with your project, it's looking good so far.
Thank you! I am pretty happy with how it's coming. Not much left to do now: add magnets to hold her thigh/butt fillers in, test and tweak the wheel swingarms when my friend gets around to printing them (he's got a lot he's printing right now), finish up the headsculpt (speaking of which, see below), and paint.
Thanks! Yeah, that's pretty much how I'm gonna' sprue the parts together but there's going to be more parts than that. Face, eyes, neck, and collar are all separate pieces and I'm still planning on creating some alternate faces. Unfortunately, you don't get to decide how your prints are positioned: Shapeways' people do that. For some reason, HDA works best if flat surfaces are NOT level, so I'll want to sprue everything together in a way that makes sense for being slightly off kilter. I'll have to check prices to see if it's more economical to print everything sprued together in HDA or do the head and faces in HDA and the neck and collar in WSF. HDA is more expensive but a large chunk of the cost comes from the parts count, so I'll have to see if adding the extra material for the collar and neck costs more or if creating an entirely new part albeit in a cheaper material costs more.
I've designed the head so it'll fit on the existing balljoint even though I'm creating a new neck/collar for it. That way, if anybody wants to order the head from Shapeways (assuming it goes well and I make it available for sale), and they just want to swap the head without punching out her chest pin to install the collar, they'll be able to do that.
The opened mouth looks the best. I think that her mouth is too wide but these are impressive.
This is awesome work!
I think for the first generic face render (compared to ref picture) needs lowered brows for the eyes. That will create a more sincere look. The way you have them angled right now makes it look wierd
So what is the clay/putty you've been using?
Too wide to be toon accurate certainly, but her mouth is actually pretty narrow proportionally. Human mouths generally stretch from about the midpoint of the left eye to the midpoint of the right. Arcee's here are narrower than that by quite a bit. They just happen to be narrower still in the movie but I'm not necessarily going for 100% toon accuracy. I prefer a more "this is what the G1 Transformers would look like in real life" look.
However, I went back and looked at the neutral expression after your comment and decided it could stand to be a little narrower
It's called apoxie sculpt.
Amazon.com: Apoxie Sculpt - 1 Lb. Natural - Light Gray Epoxy Clay
My bad. I assumed you were going for full-on toon due to the comparisons with the toon. Like I said earlier, still impressive. And yes the neutral expression looks better. I'm excited to see the faces on your figure.
Ooh thanks! I think I'll pick some of this up.
Really like how the head is coming along. I especially like that what you've done is stylistically different from what I'm working on and just holds up on its own. And you said you weren't really a 3D modeler. Ladies and gentlemen, we have a natural here.
Yeah, that makes sense. I actually thought about going full toon, but I just didn't think it'd look as good on a 3d action figure as it does in the movie. But yeah, I'm trying to make the faces evocative of the movie, hence the side-by-sides.
I think those are all the faces I'm gonna' do. I looked through my movie captures of Arcee and those seem to be most of the expressions she does. I mean there's some surprise expressions and a few more variations on the open mouth look but I don't need her to be able to replicate every frame of the movie; just the most iconic ones. That said, I'm open to feedback if anybody has any suggestions for tweaking the current faces or for faces I might've missed that I should consider doing. No IDW, though: I don't hate it or anything but I've never read it so it just doesn't mean anything to me.
Thank you. I did cheat a little of course. The mouth on mine was awful until I looked at the image you showed me of yours and I basically just copied what you did. I'm also over-using Blender's modifiers to make it easier which has a tendency to come back and bite me when I've used too many on a mesh (I spent more time cleaning up the problems on the helmet mesh than I spent creating it). I also haven't tried to print anything yet beyond the relatively simple feet I created a few pages back so I'm still not 100% certain this will work out but I'm determined to try my best. Any suggestions on the polygon density you can get away with on Shapeways? I haven't seen any comments on that anywhere and I worry I'm making my models too high-poly.
 Also, fair warning: Apoxie Sculpt has a bit of a learning curve. It's sticky when you first mix it which makes it really hard to shape since it wants to stick to your fingers and/or tools. Water helps. It has a three hour work time but I find that it's easiest to get it to stick to what you want it to within the first 30 minutes or so and it's easiest to sculpt after an hour to an hour and a half. Once you get to two to two and a half hours, it's pretty firm and you can carve in the fine details. After four to five hours, it's pretty damn solid and you can start sanding, though you'll still want to be careful as it takes 24 hours to cure fully. Fully cured, it's pretty tough but it's just a little on the brittle side so you'll want to be careful with any small/thin pieces. It sands really well and, while I haven't painted any yet, I'm told that it takes primer and paint really well.
I also have some stuff called XTC-3d which is an epoxy resin meant to be brushed onto 3d prints to smooth out the step lines. I haven't worked with it yet, but I've read that it can be thinned with denatured alcohol and doing so at the right ratio will yield a slightly more flexible layer that should go on pretty smoothly: I've given some thought to coating the apoxie pieces with a thin layer of XTC to make up for its brittleness. I've also given some thought to using XTC as a clear coat over paint to make it bulletproof (since Transformers necessarily have rubbing issues), but I'll have to do a lot of experimenting with that before I let it anywhere near my Arcee.
The main thing is you have to be within their specs, which I believe are under 60MB for the file size and under 1MM polys for everything in the file. Now fewer polys should equal faster printing time which might affect how soon you get your prints. If you're running at say 600K polys for the head currently and the STL file is well under 60MB you should be fine.
I've used Blender very little and I'm not sure how their modifiers work. If there's a way to flatten the modifiers you might want to see if you can take advantage of that. I use 3DS Max at work and the Modifier Stack will be used as needed and collapsed as need. It's kind of a workflow thing that you just get the hang of as you get better.
Regarding cheating in 3D, that's a must. Oh and no one cares as long as you get to the fun park. XD
The problem with modifiers in Blender is that there are things that can cause some of them to fail. In particular, the boolean modifier used to combine two meshes can have problems if one of the meshes has any weirdness going on. Weirdness can be caused by the subdivision modifier (smoothing) or another boolean. I've struggled a lot with meshes that I just can't get to do what I want because something is causing problems. These aren't really legitimate problems but it's a known bug in Blender. Fortunately, so far I haven't had this problem rear its ugly head while working on Arcee's head (except a minor issue where I had some extra polys inside her head after combining in the hairbuns but that wasn't too hard to fix) but it's what completely derailed the 3d scratch build I started a year or two ago: I just couldn't make some of the parts work and I just kinda' fizzled out on it. That and my model didn't really look all that good and I was really really struggling on transformation joints.
3d modelling is fun, though. I think, once I'm done with Arcee, I'm going to take a stab at modifying the 3d Voltron on myminifactory to improve articulation and then see about printing it. By then, I should've saved up enough to get a 3d printer... if I can refrain from blowing all my money on Transformers, that is
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