Repro/Sticker: WFC / Deluxe sized Prime Ion Blaster Rifle

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by project9, Nov 30, 2010.

  1. project9

    project9 White n' Nerdy

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    To follow what seems to be a common theme recently, I've made my own Prime blaster rifle - primarily for WFC Prime. I've been meaning to do it for a while, just didn't have a chance until over the holiday weekend.

    I made a copy of the small Prime rifle that came with the Gear of War 2 set and used some Fixit Sculpt to give it a regular sized post to fit into WFC Prime's hand (or any standard fist hole). Fixit Sculpt is sweet stuff, might I add. People rave about it and for good reason - it's great. I started with a straight cast of the original, used Fixit to fill in some bubbles and built/sanded the post.

    I think it came out pretty decent. I really wanted to use Smooth-on's Task 9 for the resin, as 1) it's clear, which I was hoping to tint a clear red to see if that would look cool under the black paint and 2) it's strong as hell. Unfortunately, I've been fighting with bubbles and curing issues with it so I had to use the last of my Smoothcast 300 instead.

    So, I've casted it and primed it with Fusion Camo flat black and hope to go over it to smooth out anything I missed when it was white. Then finish it off with some highlights/dry brushing. I don't have any other Primes at my house, like Classic Voyager or the other deluxe spinning-punch-action Prime, but I assume it should fit those too.
     

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  2. Lucs

    Lucs This Guy!

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    Dude that thing looks awesome! I guess I'll be the first to say it... are you gonna cast it to sell to board members? :D 
     
  3. project9

    project9 White n' Nerdy

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    If I could nail down this casting process and people want one, sure.

    Since I still want to mess with the clear color tint (I have black & white resin dyes but I hope clear Tamaya paint might work), it would be a little while before I could offer them. As some other folks on the board can attest to, it's time consuming - especially with the Task 9 resin. It's an hour demold time and I've normally had to leave it in for a few hours just to make sure.

    With the weather getting colder, I've used a portable heater to try getting it to set and reduce the problems I've been running into. But barring any bubble/casting issues, I'd still be lucky to get 1 done a night.
     
  4. bellyboy

    bellyboy working working working

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    i started with smoothcast as well ,and then dicovered easyflo60

    give it a try , its 10 time less viscous then the smoothcast300.
    it has 10min curing time and 2.5 mim working time
     
  5. project9

    project9 White n' Nerdy

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    Smoothcast 300 and Easyflo 60 are both solid white when they cure. So any adding of color becomes a mix with white. Easyflo60 (ergo the name) is less viscous - 60 cps versus 80 for SC.

    But Smoothcast Colormatch 325 (and Task 9) is called 'clear amber', so Easyflo Clear would be the closest match and they both are 3min pot time and 10 min cure and similar viscosity. The big difference with Task 9, aside from the 300 cps viscosity instead of 100 cps, is the 85D Shore hardness rating versus the 72D rating for the other and a much higher compressive strength.

    Now... I have no real clue what those really mean aside from their technical explanations =) -- but I would assume that the pieces would be less prone to breaking under pressure. If I'm crazy or off base on that, then someone let me know. When I tried my own 'stress test' of taking a casted part and trying to snap it in half, it was a heck of a lot harder with Task9. But switching to SC 320 or 325 would be a huge help in eliminating bubbles and reducing my curing times.
     
  6. imoff2186

    imoff2186 Well-Known Member

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    cool!
     
  7. Lion

    Lion Will bite you!

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    Ebay:
    put me down for when when the preorders go up!
     
  8. C. Wallace

    C. Wallace Freelance Artist

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    Clear paints are not dyes, trust me when I tell you that trying to use them as such will end in disaster.:bay 

    Parts as small as this should really be cast under pressure, your parts will come out bubble free and look like injection molded pieces. Use a mold release or powder your molds to decrease surface bubbles. Adding tints will usually weaken the surface tension of the resin too, allowing more bubbles to release.

    If your having trouble in the cold, and cannot work in a suitable temp area, try preheating your molds in the oven before pouring your resin. 150 degrees for a couple of minutes will work wonders.
     
  9. project9

    project9 White n' Nerdy

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    I remember someone either painting the inside of the mold before casting or adding a drop or two of enamel paint in the resin. I think they had okay luck with them but all else fails, I can always paint them with the clear paint instead.

    Well, the problem is I do this at home so I have limited space. I'm not sure how big a small pressure pot would be and also the compressor. My mother has a couple compressors installed at her house (father was an auto body guy) but I don't have the time to try using everything over there. I'd like to try pressure casting but I don't think it's in my cards for a while. Thanks for the other tips, though!
     
  10. megatronatlas

    megatronatlas Well-Known Member

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    put me down for one as well
     
  11. project9

    project9 White n' Nerdy

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    Well, while I was waiting for another cast to be done, I figured I'd slap a crappy test paint job on the one I've been working on.

    I put the primer on a little uneven and tried touching up some with a different black paint. The Stoplight Red paint I tried using doesn't cover well with a black base so I tried putting a few coats on. And the paint on the peg made it too tight to fit, so I tried sanding off some. All in all, it's not great but it's doable for now.

    I hope to get a good cast out of the mold eventually, then I will redo the peg and hopefully make a new mold with the peg. I'm running on about 25% left of my Task 9 supply. If I keep having bubble issues, I might just end up buying some Smoothcast next - just to keep my sanity.
     

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  12. project9

    project9 White n' Nerdy

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    Yeah, I think I'm going to move on to the clear Smoothcast instead. In the two or three projects I've been messing with, Task9 been more trouble than it's worth for me. I ordered some through Amazon, since I can't make it down to the local Smooth-on dealer because they're only open when I'm at work (M-F 8-5). So I should get that shipment next week some time.

    I'm wondering if I should sand out those details on the gun on my next attempt. They're part of the original because of the lightpiping they do with the LED. While they are cool, they're not real accurate to the G1 gun. There are still some other lines and sections that can be painted red to invoke a WfC vibe. I'm not sure but let me know your thoughts.
     
  13. Lucs

    Lucs This Guy!

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    If you did another batch in just black you could sell them as is for a lot of fans that would love to have them. I mean it seems like your idea was to have some kind of clear areas but if you did want to sell them black mold would be easy enough. I do like the version you used for a mold but a lot of people don't care much for the leds enough to NEED them in there
     
  14. project9

    project9 White n' Nerdy

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    Well, the idea for it to be clear was mostly because that's what the resin was to begin with. =) But I figured it would be cool to have it clear red in those sections rather than paint over the black.

    It wasn't specifically for adding an LED - only that the original gun from TFC was designed that way because of the LED feature. I just wonder if I should make it look more G1-ish and less of a direct copy of the other toy.

    If I do end up selling some, I'd probably offer them in clear or black resin and maybe flat black primed/painted version.
     
  15. cheetor71

    cheetor71 Autobot

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    This looks good. I would also be interested in one.
     
  16. project9

    project9 White n' Nerdy

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    Well, I got my new resin today. Now, just trying to get a good cast out and then figure out how much pigment to put in. I tried a few drops of black and it came out grey - which I thought was weird since it's a clear resin. I would have assumed it would have been an opaque black at the very least.

    I also figured out that my WFC Prime has smaller holes than normal. My 'test' gun fits mine perfect but is loose as hell in my friend's Prime and in my Classic Prime's hands (which I think this is a good size for too). So, when I make a new one/master, I'll have to fit the peg to my classic Prime and then sand it down if needed.

    Ugh.

    EDIT: Well, it didn't come out that bad... except for the little scope type thing on the underside of the barrel. A bubble took that out. Oh, and the other pieces are a side project. I want to do some custom Revoltechs but didn't want to wreck a real one as a base, so I'm trying to cast a bunch of the parts from them.
     

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  17. C. Wallace

    C. Wallace Freelance Artist

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    Is the extra plastic under the peg from where you poured from? Did you have any vents? Smaller stuff comes out infinitely better if you know how to gate and vent a mold properly. Less air trapping so you wont lose pieces of your castings to air bubbles.

    Check out some of the vids from brickintheyard on youtube - YouTube - Mold Making: venting a 2 piece mold
     
  18. project9

    project9 White n' Nerdy

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    Thanks, Chip. It is where I pour from but I do have vents at the top points but I don't think I vented the scope for some reason. I don't so it often enough, so I need to fine tune and perfect my process.
     
  19. C. Wallace

    C. Wallace Freelance Artist

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    Keep working at it...always take your time, and care about what your doing...stick with that mentality and you'll be producing flawless castings in no time ;) 

    Oh yeah, and ask lots of questions if your not sure on something...the only reason I know as much as I do is because I was a pest to others asking tons of questions all the time:D 
     
  20. project9

    project9 White n' Nerdy

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    Well, I'm getting closer. Even though I vented the back portion, I still got a bubble there. And I still have some bubbles on the sides but I didn't use any release this time, so maybe that will help.

    Hopefully, I can just get one good, solid cast out so I can make the post and then a new master mold. More importantly, I just need time - I haven't had much of that recently. =(
     

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