Customs: Weathering/lining help

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by Jeremy.B, Mar 7, 2008.

  1. Jeremy.B

    Jeremy.B Leader Blackout LIVES!!!

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    Hey guys, need some help. I know the drybrusing technique and I have used it effectively. However, I am having an issue when it comes to attempting a realistic look on other colors. For instance, I am putting together a few MG and a pg gundams, as well as an alteisen. On the instruction covers, they show the white and various colors with a worn look on the edges and that kind of "dingy" look. I have used ultra fine markers to edge, but all I get is the panel lining effect, which is cool but leaves the figs looking incomplete. Any suggestions? I am also trying to figure out how you guys make the silver and grey parts look metal...i.e. jin's phenomenal work...
     
  2. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

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    try drybrushing silver over the finished paint.
    check out the knees on this one, i think it's what you're looking for?

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Jeremy.B

    Jeremy.B Leader Blackout LIVES!!!

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    Will that work on white? here is what I am trying to do:

    http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/betaku/l_mk2_7.jpg

    If you can go to that pic, see how the white is matted and shaded on the corners? That is my ultimate goal. It is the way the Gundam boxes show the completed kit on the side of the box, where it looks more professionally done.
     
  4. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

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    i don't see anything different on the corners of that mold. Maybe you can paint with a gloss white, then drybrush the edges with a flat white?

    or...

    paint it all in a very very light gray, then heavily drybrush in matte white.
     
  5. Boggs6ft7

    Boggs6ft7 TFW2005 Supporter

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    I would do a wash, its easy to do and will give the look I think you are going for.

    I like to use Tamiya spray paints for my base colors because they don't react to paint thinner (which is important in doing the wash).

    If you are painting white, I would use a gray wash. Take some gray oil based paint and thin it down. I usually thin mine down to 50/50. You want a nice thin consistency. Dip your paintbrush in the paint and let it soak up the thinned paint, then touch your paintbrush to any cracks and lines on the figure. Capillary action will do the rest. Don't worry about being neat, just make sure you get paint into all those hard to reach areas. This is an easy way to do panel lining as well.

    Once the paint has dried overnight or a few hours, take a cloth and lightly damp it in paint thinner. Then GENTLY wipe away any excess paint. You'll be left over with what looks like dirt and grime in the panel lines and any other recessed areas. It takes some practice, but I think you get great results from it.

    I used this process on my Evil Jetfire.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. TTT

    TTT OutOfCommissionToys.com

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    Exactly what these guys said, also give it a good whap of silver on the protruding corners & leading edges.
    The trick is having just the right amount of paint on your brush.
    It takes practice so try it on a junker etc.
    HAVE FUN !
     
  7. Jeremy.B

    Jeremy.B Leader Blackout LIVES!!!

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    cool. Thanks, I think that is what I was looking for; a wash. And on the white, I should use a grey? That dirt/grime look is what I want.

    Also, TTT, your MP SS is wicked!
     
  8. Boggs6ft7

    Boggs6ft7 TFW2005 Supporter

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    Yes, on white you should try grey. I've seen some shades of brown used before too, or you could combine the two.

    Usually you want to use a shade that is darker than your basecoat. So if you basecoat was orange, you would use brown. Or if you basecoat was grey, you could use black. But black panel lines on orange or yellow basecoat is too much of a contrast and it will look bad. (Black on yellow is the strongest contrast to human eyes)
     
  9. Jeremy.B

    Jeremy.B Leader Blackout LIVES!!!

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    Thanks for the tip dude! That seems to be working.