Minor/Repaint: Venomus Prime (TR Autobot Hot Rod) CustomZ Progression

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by Venomus Rodimus, Jun 26, 2017.

  1. Venomus Rodimus

    Venomus Rodimus Decepticon 4 Fire

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    And so it begins... the pain over a new project. First day and already the $hit is hitting the fan.
    Broken/warped parts and the plastic won't accept the color dye that I'm using (RITdye). Terrific! So what now? How can I overcome these complications?
    Well at least the paint stripping went perfectly without a hitch.
     

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  2. DrOblivian

    DrOblivian Mad Doctor JaAmS

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    well there is nothing you can do about the mangled warped parts. Use em for some kind of battle damaged/dead custom? You could always try and scratch build replacement parts or try and get a shapeways modeler to whip something up for you if they are willing.

    as for color, may just have to resort to paint.
     
  3. Venomus Rodimus

    Venomus Rodimus Decepticon 4 Fire

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    A small task, I could understand; but paint chips far too easily on Transformer toys. I have noticed a slight darker hue to Hot Rod's head right after testing the Black RITdye; but I just can't get it any darker than what it turned out. I'm gonna attempt another shot at using a more concentrated substance like, RIT Dyemore. It probably wont make a difference, but hey it's worth a shot.
    I've also purchased a junker TR Hot Rod to replace the messed up parts. He should be here very shortly.
    The one pictured above the custom in progress is my better figure; and I'm not using that one for scraps. ;) 
     
  4. reluttr

    reluttr Well-Known Member

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    regular RIT clothing dye no longer has the chemicals in it to dye plastics reliably.

    You will want to buy something called "iDye Poly", it is available on amazon and some retailers. It still works rather nicely on plastics and you can easily find tutorials on youtube for using it to dye plastic stuff. :D 

    As far as the part warping... there is not anything you can do about the parts already affected... but in the future dont use anything like acetone in the bath, white vinegar is good enough, and keep the temperature just below boiling. You don't even have to keep the heat on the bath, just reach the temp and cut it off.
     
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  5. Lord Dcast

    Lord Dcast Dr Lockdown

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    How did you do the spoiler in transparent blue? Is it already like that under the paint?
     
  6. The13Primes

    The13Primes Jaxius._

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    Yeah it is.
    Haven't seen many non hot rod customs from this mold so I look forward to the end results
     
  7. Venomus Rodimus

    Venomus Rodimus Decepticon 4 Fire

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    Alright I'm going out on a limb here to ask for some advise. Remember, this is a Transformers toy; so it has to transform.
    So I have a couple of questions for you guys to smooth the sailing of this project a little.

    1.) Would vinyl spray paint work better for the color dying complication that I'm having? If so, what brand would you recommend for the task at hand here?
    I'm still gonna attempt color dying the figure some more, though I am curious about this other method someone has used before:
    Paints: - Vinyl Paint/Dye Information

    2.) I'm gonna attempt the old soldering iron and an earth magnet trick to remove the stubborn metal pins to Hot Rod.
    For those who have tried this technique before, how well did this process work for you?
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2017
  8. f-primusunicron

    f-primusunicron Unicron Herald BladeZero

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    woah how did you warped the hood that much?
     
  9. TCJJ

    TCJJ 102% Tank Engine

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    I believe what you need is Rit Dyemore, not regular Rit Dye, and they also offer a colour-removing dye that you're supposedly meant to use first but I can only the dye remover for fabrics so I don't know how well it'd work on plastics (I looked into all this but I have yet to use any Rit Dye myself, so someone can correct me if I'm wrong on any points).
     
  10. Venomus Rodimus

    Venomus Rodimus Decepticon 4 Fire

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    A bad mix of boiling water and acetone.
     
  11. deliciouspeter

    deliciouspeter Back in Black TFW2005 Supporter

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    If you're going for black, Testors model master acrylic is awesome for a beginner, and does not chip if applied correctly.

    Dye is a crap shoot. First, it only makes things darker, and often combines with the base plastic color, so that limits your options on a bright red figure.

    If you insist on dye, the ipoly works better, and you don't need hot temperatures, but again it is not meant for plastic, but synthetic fabrics. A figure is made up of many different types of plastic, and they'll all take dye differently. You can end up different/uneven shades.

    Also most plastic is left in a weakened state and may eventually degrade further, especially when using acetone. I'm finding figures I dyed years ago starting to look shiny/gummy and still giving off an odor.
     
  12. Venomus Rodimus

    Venomus Rodimus Decepticon 4 Fire

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    Thanks for the info, and for the record: I am trying to dye Hot Rod Black not a brighter Red color.
     
  13. TheAmazingBrave

    TheAmazingBrave 吾輩は猫である!!!

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    There's silver paint under the yellow paint too, probably so it'll show up better over transparent blue.

    Also There's some cases out there where the spoiler on Hot Rod broke for some people. This is probably why.
     
  14. f-primusunicron

    f-primusunicron Unicron Herald BladeZero

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    just take the pin out of the other hot rod in the photo(you have 2 right?) and use one of the many trick there are online to replicate the part, i would say, use acrylic
     
  15. Venomus Rodimus

    Venomus Rodimus Decepticon 4 Fire

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    Replicating parts on a toy isn't as easy as it may sound. There's a big process to all that work, money, time consumption, and gambling. Most of the time it's a waste of resin thanks to the molds not turning out complete due to air pockets seeping in during the curing phase. One project took me 6-7 re-castings just to find the best of the lot of replicated heads; and that chore was all for just ONE 3" custom action figure. No thanks. I'll be sticking with all original parts for this minor repainted figure. As for the spare figure, I'm not doing anything to my better Hot Rod. There's a junker figure that I purchased off Ebay with the necessary parts on it's way to me. I can wait a few days to get back to work on this project, no rush.
     
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  16. knoted

    knoted Resistor Transistor

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    Hi,

    Sorry to hear about the deformation.
    Regarding dye ; I have been getting good results with Rit DyeMore on my Shapeways stuff.

    I also have a question: are you going to disassemble the arms and if so, is it easy to do or are pins making it difficult to do ?
     
  17. Venomus Rodimus

    Venomus Rodimus Decepticon 4 Fire

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    I've had experience with pin removing before, mostly successful with a simple pin pusher and a small hammer (not always required); but the capped pins on a toy, I've never tried to remove. I've seen a few TY videos of users using a method that involves taking a soldering iron to heat up the capped pin for a minute or less; then using a earth magnet, sorta "forcing" the pin to come freely and cleanly outta the housed parts of any kinda toy.
    Earth magnets are pretty dang strong; so I believe it and I'm going to try it for myself with this project.
     
  18. Venomus Rodimus

    Venomus Rodimus Decepticon 4 Fire

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    Well that didn't go at all as planned. The capped pin removal went just fine. Nice to know that trick was seriously legit even if it took a good hour of my time. I'm not sure what to say about the second picture except, massive failure. Pin pusher or not, those pins refused to move and I ended up completely destroying HR left leg in the process.
    Good thing the junker figure will be here tomorrow.
     

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  19. f-primusunicron

    f-primusunicron Unicron Herald BladeZero

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    i was going to suggest other trick that worked for me, get legos, make 2 open boxes, that can close together(but that are easy to take appart
    Making a Two-Piece Mold to Cast with Resin (and doing a test cast) - Forum - DakkaDakka something similar but with hones on one side for the acrylic to get in, also, anther hole for the air to get out, instead of putty or a "rubbery" maleable cast, you could use dental wax, as it can be made lquid(or in between) by heating it up , so it becomes easy to mold, and only would need to use some oil or something on the lego boxes for it to be able to be removed easily after use)(and on the peice you going to replicate or another oily substanse so it doesnt stick to the wax, believe me, it works, and since the wax can be reheated it can be used several times until you get a perfect mold before pouring the acrylic, acrylic does need some heavy precautions though
     
  20. Venomus Rodimus

    Venomus Rodimus Decepticon 4 Fire

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    Well that's... not a junker. Oo
    Oh well, the project continues...
     

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