Customs: Tough, plastic-like filler/sculpt material? What to use?

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by Ops_was_a_truck, Sep 2, 2006.

  1. Ops_was_a_truck

    Ops_was_a_truck JOOOLIE ANDREWWWWWS!!!!!!

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    Hey all. I am more familiar with doing static model kits (i.e., once they're done, NOTHING moves on them,) and so I've used testors orange putty for years. Only recently, I began to realize this was a ridiculously bad idea for Transformers; I used it on the RID Grapple I did and the damn thing's filled areas are starting to crumble apart.

    What type of filler material should/could I use to fill in gaps in between styrene for kitbashes? I need something that would be functional enough to undergo the movements of transforming, obviously. What do you guys use?
     
  2. Greyryder

    Greyryder Kitbashed

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    Actually, I use the gray Testors putty. I've never used filler in a wear spot, though.

    I also like Mr. Surfacer. It's a thick liquid, and geared more towards filing scrapes and things. If something really needs a lot of filling, I usually file it down and glue thin sheet over it. (I have some sheet that's just a hair thinner than 90lb card stock.
     
  3. Ops_was_a_truck

    Ops_was_a_truck JOOOLIE ANDREWWWWWS!!!!!!

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    Yeah, I've seen TFmaster and some of the other static modelers use the combination of styrene and glue just to fill spaces, but I'm trying to find a cure-all for those random-ass shapes - half-cones, "J" shapes, or places that just wouldn't accept a pack of styrene as readily.
     
  4. mx-01 archon

    mx-01 archon Well-Known Member

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    Most action figure customizers swear by this stuff now:

    http://www.avesstudio.com/Products/Apoxie_Sculpt/apoxie_sculpt.html

    or the newer:

    http://www.avesstudio.com/html/fixit_sculpt.html

    The stuff air dries, bonds to plastic, sculpts well, is non-toxic, heat resistant, sandable, drillable, paintable, etc, and is virtually indestructible. And quite cost effective, compared to most other products out there.

    The only catch is that the only way to obtain the stuff is to order it through their website.
     
  5. fschuler

    fschuler Member TFW2005 Supporter

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    I've been using Testor's gray putty and it seems to work well. I've also been experimenting with a polystyrene hot melt plastic applicator. For shallow fill-in jobs, I'll spread some cement onto a small piece of polystyrene, work it around to dissolve some of the plastic into the cement, and spread it over the area to be filled (sometimes this can leave bubbles, though, after the solvent evaporates).
     
  6. Sculpt-bot

    Sculpt-bot So waddya want, a medal?

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    To echo mx-01 archon:
    Apoxy Sculpt dude! It is workable like clay for about three hours, but once it sets it is rock hard.It has allowed me to do some body mods, and add-ons that I wouldn't have been able to do before. The stuf has enough versatility, that I have been able to use an Alt frame as a base for a triple-changer, that will be unrecognizable from it's original model. Comes in a ton of colors. Highly reccomended!
     
  7. Sidecutter

    Sidecutter Evil Dealer Scum TFW2005 Supporter

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    A less orthodox solution is SGT, aka Superglue-Talcum Powder Compound. It's workable for a length of time, bonds superbly to plastic, sands well, is fairly cheap, drills, and generally can't be told from plastic once painted.

    It has the superbly strong advantage of superglue, but without being brittle or fast-drying. You can adjust the dry time by using a higher or lower ratio of talcum powder.
     
  8. Kittie Rose

    Kittie Rose Banned

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    Is it possible to use Apoxie to create models from scratch? Like could I make 6" statues out of it? Or even posable figures with joints I make from the Apoxie, copied from another figure?
     
  9. zailand

    zailand Well-Known Member

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    This thread is important. Everyone should read it! I will try the SGT.
     
  10. mx-01 archon

    mx-01 archon Well-Known Member

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    Check out their site. They have modelling professionals using the stuff to create life-size dinosaur sculptures (using wireframe supports, of course. Making a sculpture out of solid clay is ridiculous), etc. 6"? Feh. As long as you either build it in stages, or provide a rigid internal skeleton to prevent it the clay from sagging, you're all good.

    The new Fixit Sculpt compound resists sagging better, but it takes an additional hour to cure, and as of this moment, its more expensive for less product. On the flip side, its reportedly even more durable than Apoxy, and because of its non-sagginess, it holds detail better.

    Oh, the other thing that I forgot to mention is that both compounds are water-clean up. Until they cure, they've got essentially the same consistency as clay, and just like clay, you can water down your hands and tools to smooth out surfaces and prevent them from sticking to the compound.
     
  11. MegaMoonMan

    MegaMoonMan www.megamoonman.com TFW2005 Supporter

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    That's an interesting idea, especially for a cheap bastard like me.
     

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