Customs: Thinning enamels? - update: OH NO :( help?

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by Jaekwong, Mar 20, 2008.

  1. Jaekwong

    Jaekwong Well-Known Member

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    READ MY LATEST POOST AT BOTTOM :( 

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    Just wondering, what kind of thinner are good for using for testor's enamel paints?

    I tried mixing isopropyl with it and it didnt thin it, then i realized alcohol probably won't work.

    I have a whole carton full of lacquer thinner. Will this stuff thin enamels?
    Only thing is i know that lacquer thinner eats plastic really easily

    Mind you my piece is primed with krylon fusion.

    Any suggestions for enamel thinners? (other than testors or MM brands of thinners)
     
  2. StarFire_MK2

    StarFire_MK2 'Till All are One! TFW2005 Supporter

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    Use paint thinner, not lacquer thinner...that stuff will eat through paint far more durable than Krylon.
     
  3. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

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    i use laquer thinner, thins it fine, and don't have problems with the paint.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

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    let me add....there are *some* types of plastic that won't handle well with enamels or any thinners in general. It's best to know your medium and where it's going before throwing paint on it (should make this into a disclaimer)
     
  5. Jaekwong

    Jaekwong Well-Known Member

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    I have a can of Recochem lacquer thinner. will this work?
    Should i be careful of ratios making sure i dont have too much lacquer thinner?

    Currently I am working with a Star Wars Ship. (the v-wing made by hasbro).
    Its just i have a huge can sitting at home and would like to make use of it if i can.
     
  6. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

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    I use the exact make/brand in the image I posted, I highly doubt the chemicals in a different brand really differ enough to make an impact and destroy your figure. Make sure you use it moderately, it IS strong stuff. I've heard rumors of guys melting joints and plastic, yet after about 40 customs, I have yet to personally experience that. However, I always use acrylic bases on the softer plastics that are almost like a rubber (ie TFTM SS nose cone, optimus prime's exhaust pipes, etc)

    You need to really get a feel for what you are about to put it on, then it is smooth sailing.
     
  7. Jaekwong

    Jaekwong Well-Known Member

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    ******UPDATE ****************
    alright, so this is what happend

    I primed my ship in with krylon fusion
    waited about 2 days for it to dry

    Thinned down testors enamel paint with lacquer thinner. about 8:1 (thinner to paint) for a backwash.

    and few seconds later... it started wrinkling the primer (the fusion coat). It got so ugly quickly.

    Then quickly trying to wipe it off i noticed it warped the plastic ever so slightly. crazed it maybe.

    Anyone tell me what did i do wrong here?

    I thougght that this would be ok :( 
     
  8. anovasinn

    anovasinn THE PAINTS MUST FLOW!!!

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    some paints are not compatiable with each other. like you can paint acrylic over laquer but you can't paint laquer over acrylic. this may be the issue. but i have had the same problem if i did not let the paint cure as well.

    easyest thing to do is use the same brand of paints and type
     
  9. StarFire_MK2

    StarFire_MK2 'Till All are One! TFW2005 Supporter

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    Correct, which is why I strongly suggested to Jaekwong to stay away from lacquer thinner: it's designed to melt fiberglass resin. It's best to thin oil enamel with paint thinner...paint thinner was designed for use with oil enamels.
    Another thing which may have caused you problems Jaekwong is the fact you didn't wait for the Krylon to cure, which takes 7 days, but to be safe, just use paint thinner.
     
  10. Jaekwong

    Jaekwong Well-Known Member

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    ok thanks guys! i went out to get the paint thinner!
     
  11. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

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    It's near impossible to wash a thinner/enamel paint ontop of a thinner/enamel base. Thats the biggest weakness AND stregnth of enamels. Thinner WILL liquify enamel paint 2 months old if you want it to. I usually wash with acrylics over my enamel bases. Water won't effect enamel what-so-ever.

    It's also a blessing though, say you got paint in the wrong area, 2 weeks later you can jot some thinner on it and pick it up. Same goes with your brushes. I'm so lazy, sometimes I leave them covered in paint at night, and the next night, they clean off brand new. Can't do that with Acrylics.
     
  12. Jaekwong

    Jaekwong Well-Known Member

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    hey frenzy, thanks for your informative reply

    so what you are saying is that its near impossible to do a thinner enamel layer on top of another thinner enamel layer? even dry brushing?

    so are you saying that when you do layers of enamel on top of other coats of enamels, you don't thin it with thinner?

    Jessey. I'm learning tons. thanks ... may want to keep my questions in your upcoming enamel guide. may help a lot of others with beginnner questions like mine!

    (ps thx for posting here.. thoug i know u dont answer my pms :p )
     
  13. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

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    well, drybrushing is a whole different story. there's hardly enough thinner in the paint itself to actually effect the layers underneath, but a wash is usually at least a 4:1 (thinner:p aint) ration, which means you're dousing lots of thinner on top of paint. it'll eat it up or liquify it to a mess.
     
  14. Jaekwong

    Jaekwong Well-Known Member

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    what ratio do u use for drybrushing? thinner to paint
     
  15. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

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    no thinner when drybrushing. you want that paint almost dry matter of fact. I'll have a tutorial on enamel drybrushing on my site very soon.
     
  16. Jaekwong

    Jaekwong Well-Known Member

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    ok! i think ill experiment for now. Frenzy. thanks for your help once agian. PLEASE do have that guide up soon!

    haha its cuz of u im trying out with enamels.

    (if you have time answer: so basically its ur base coat that only has thinner?)

    thanks again
     
  17. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

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    well, lemme lay it down easy way....

    • my primer is usually Krylon Fusion.
    • my base coat is painted on like so:
    · coat 1: typically 2:1 (thinner : paint) almost like a wash, to get in all the cracks/crevises/details.
    · coat 2: straight paint coat (100% paint mixed or out of bottle) spread THIN
    · coat 3: same as coat 2, to help covering.
    · coat 4: "clean up coat" : this coat will be mostly paint, but THINNED out paint to help remove and blemishes, gunked up paint, misformations, brush strokes, etc. This is the final coat, so it needs to not only completely cover the old color, it needs to be clean and flawless as possible.
    • dry brushing
    · drybrush 1: 20% lighter hue of base coat above, applied quite heavily, but still retains the drybrushing properties
    · drybrush 2: 40% lighter hue of base coat above, applied lightly
    · drybrush 3 *(highlighting): this is a drastically lighter shade/hue than the base coat but is applied SO very lightly, it only highlights main details and is very subtle.
     
  18. TonyzCustomz

    TonyzCustomz Am I doin it rite? TFW2005 Supporter

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    That seems like a lot of steps just for the base coat? I thought enamels covered better than others, I get full coverage with two (2 acrylic paint:1 water mix) on top of krylon fusion. Just curious really, not trying to start anything.
     
  19. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

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    well, that's the entire paint process. 4 coats for the base, meaning i usually go over tougher areas 4 times, maximum.
     
  20. Jaekwong

    Jaekwong Well-Known Member

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    Frenzy, can i quickly ask.
    What type of enamel paints do you use? I just use testors enamel paint.

    Also, why do peopel complain so much that their enamels NEVER dry? is it becuase they didnt prime/thin/or?

    Thanks again for your responses
     

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