Customs: styrene question

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by the (H)i(GH)con, Jan 11, 2009.

  1. the (H)i(GH)con

    the (H)i(GH)con raver-in-diguise

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    I was wondering how you pros get such straight lines when cutting styrene? Mine always come out somewhat crooked. Please keep in mind that this is the first time I've worked with styrene, so I'm sure I'm probably doing something wrong. Any advice?
     
  2. thyvipera

    thyvipera ThyVipera

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    i'm not a pro, but i use a T Square, and they come pretty straight. maybe try that?? hope this helps a little,
     
  3. ErechOveraker

    ErechOveraker I'm with Plowking.

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    T-square. Sharp blades which I change out frequently.

    <-- Also not a pro ;) 
     
  4. hXcpunk23

    hXcpunk23 The Chaos Bringer

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    Using a T square like thyvipera mentioned is good. You can also pick up a 12 inch metal ruler from Target on the cheap. Couple this with a good, sharp hobby knife and you're in business. I have a metal meter/yard stick, as well as a 12 inch metal ruler that I picked up at Target (and I'm talking about a solid metal ruler, not just a metal-edged one).

    Good luck with the search, man.
     
  5. yourreflection

    yourreflection Well-Known Member

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    Like everyone else mentioned, a good metal straight edge and a very sharp blade will do the trick. Just remember that you don't have to cut it with a single slice - patience is key.
     
  6. the (H)i(GH)con

    the (H)i(GH)con raver-in-diguise

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    Thanks! I've been using one of those slide-rule things cause I figured it would be about the same thing. After reading up on it over the last few hours, and watching NP'S youtube video showing his tools, I think my problem is mostly that I haven't been clamping things down right. Plus, my lack of workspace is probably an issue too (think back to the "show your workspace" thread and the guy who took a picture of his floor, I forgot who it was, but I have that exact same work area, only alot smaller) But oh well. I'm putting my styrene project on hold until I get some good clamps and a real t-square.
     
  7. big hank

    big hank Resident Slacker-Basher

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    There's a method called "score and snap", which is just as it sounds. You take your straight edge and score the styrene, then you can "snap" that piece off. It leaves a very clean cut, but does work best with smaller thicknesses. You can use flat nose pliers or needle nose pliers to help you snap the piece off.


    A bit more "hi-tech" is a styrene cutterboard. It's kind of like a papercutter, but for styrene. It also allows miter cuts for angled cuts and you can set it up for repetitive, exacting "production" cuts. They are about $30-ish at a well stocked art store. Art store, not like a Michaels, which is more of a craft store. Dont' know if Michaels has them.:thumbs2: 
     
  8. the (H)i(GH)con

    the (H)i(GH)con raver-in-diguise

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    I am SO getting one of those! Thanks
     
  9. big hank

    big hank Resident Slacker-Basher

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    Yeah, there is one at my local big art supply store, I'm gonna grab it for sure! I also want to get some cheap (Harbor Freight) digital calipers to help me get more precise with my scratch work!:thumbs2: 
     
  10. big hank

    big hank Resident Slacker-Basher

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  11. Viagra Prime

    Viagra Prime Well-Known Member

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    I have one of those (actually on my 2nd one). My first one broke after 3 years of usage. Needless to say I like it alot. The blade is only 2 inches in length (razor blade) so you can only cut that length (though you can cut total 4 inches if you cut one end and then rotate and cut the other end). So for cuts up to 4 inches in length I use this chopper. For longer cuts I just use what people have suggested already which is score (using a metal ruler and exacto knife) and break off. You don't have to score that deep. A bit and it'll break off fairly easily.
     
  12. the (H)i(GH)con

    the (H)i(GH)con raver-in-diguise

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    Thanks everyone (again) Especially BigHank for the link
     

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