Minor/Repaint: Show-accurate BB and CJ plus Zombie CJ

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by ZeltraxMilleniu, Mar 4, 2012.

  1. ZeltraxMilleniu

    ZeltraxMilleniu Active Member

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    Hello, TFW2005. I recently got a hold of 2 TFP R.I.D Cliffjumpers because when I bought them, I realized that the First Edition Cliffjumper would be over half 100 bucks to get of eBay so, I decided to buy 2 of him to custom-paint one into a more show-accurate Cliffjumper and one to customize into Zombie Cliffjumper.

    I also got TFP R.I.D BumbleBee to paint him up too since that mold has actually warmed up to me.

    I'll be attaching pics of both the figures and my over-all painting area/I also accept commissions as well.

    And so I won't skip a beat, I got a couple of images of both animation models for BumbleBee and Cliffjumper/along with some pics of Zombie Cliffjumper so I can get every detail right.

    Hopefully, in the next few days, I'll be starting on BB and both CJ's so I can have some more things to post here.

    Hope you like the pics and I'm always eager to learn more about customizing to make my customs better.

    PS: For anyone else who has TFP R.I.D Cliffjumper, have you seen any good ways of taking him apart? Because I'd like to take apart both CJ's to make the show-accurate and Zombie versions and/to me anyway, the screws for his back are obscured and I can't find a way to get at them. Any help in this would be appreciated.

    PS2: Also, has anyone tried to make some show-accurate blasters for the R.I.D Deluxe Cliffjumper? Because I'm thinking about giving the other hammer to the Zombie Cliffjumper.
     

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  2. eltonlin98

    eltonlin98 MPM-5, take MPM-3 down a peg or 2.

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    Smexy idea mate. Good luck!
     
  3. Ruminus

    Ruminus Well-Known Member

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    Yes, I have worked on two of the Cliffjumpers now. The key is to tap the metal pins out. I use a 2x4 with holes drilled into it to brace the parts against as I tap out the pins. I use a sharp awl and a jewlers hammer. You have to look closely at both sides of the pin openings and try to determine which side is a hair larger. That is the side the pin went in, and you need to tap from the opposite side.

    You can see the fatter side of the pin easily on the part where the hood meets the windshield because the fat rough part of the pin is visible through the clear plastic, so that one is real easy. just tap it out from the other side.

    Note of caution...when you do the knees, fold the calf into the thigh before tapping out the pin. I made the mistake of doing it open and put a little too much force on the calf and snapped the joint.

    Other than that, the only advice I can give is that you may need a seconf person to tap while you hold the parts and the awl. Some of the parts are tough to get in a secure position while holding the awl and parts one handed trying to tap hammer with the other.

    Also, I found it handy to cut some notches and odd shapes into the wood as it helped cradle certain parts as I tapped out pins.

    In some cases you will need to fold parts out of the way and use just the edge of the wood as support for parts you are tapping. It can be kind of tricky sometimes, but with a little patience, I was able to get every pin out.

    The front wheels I ended up leaving on and taping up before I sprayed the shoulders, but I did tap out the rear wheels and fenders. They were really tough and require using notches cut out of the wood to support them well...actually, the wheels were pretty easy, just set them over a hole in the wood, but the fenders needed a special notched shape cut into the wood that fit into the wheel well to support it while tapping out that pin, as well as having to hold the awl at an angle because part of the fender is in the way to get a straight shot at it.

    also, you only need to tap most of the pins out about an 8th to a quarter inch and then you can grab them with needle nose plyers and pull the rest of the way. If you see smooth pin, you are pushing it the wrong way. the side that needs to be coming out should have a rough texture to it, this rough texture is what makes the holes a little larger on the side they went in. Most of the time, the side they went in the pins tend to be perfectly flush with the plastic, while the side you want to tap is usually recessed just a tad.

    Hope any of this helps and sorry if this is long winded, but it is tough to describe.

    Here are the two I did, One I just did the black and panel lines, the other I painted a Metallic Red

    Let me know if there is anything else I can help with!

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  4. ZeltraxMilleniu

    ZeltraxMilleniu Active Member

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    WOW. Thanks for the tips, Ruminus. Your Cliffjumpers look amazing.

    I think I'll play it a little safe and mostly hand-paint everything.

    I recently took apart my BumbleBee to finish up that head mod/plus get everything re-aligned again so now the head stays flush.

    I'm gonna wait until the 15th to order some paints for the 2 Cliffjumpers so, I'll start on BumbleBee first because I feel the 2 Cliffjumpers will be the biggest amount of work I have to do.

    Again, thanks for the help, Ruminus.
     
  5. Ruminus

    Ruminus Well-Known Member

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    Well, if you're going to the trouble of taking them apart, it's actually easier to spray paint LOL! Just wash the parts in soapy water, let em dry and grab cans of Testors Lacquer spray paint at a hobby store. Make sure it's Lacquer because it bonds with the plastic and is much harder to scratch.

    Just spray light even coats. Start spraying a little away from the part, then move over and off it in short sprays. I get those bamboo shishkabobs for bbq-ing and jam them into the screw holes to use as handles, then I jab em into the holes in my 2x4 to dry. Couldn't be easier! and looks so much better than brushing in most cases!
     
  6. ZeltraxMilleniu

    ZeltraxMilleniu Active Member

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    I probably won't go through the trouble of taking the Cliffjumpers apart. From what you described, it seems like it'll be quite crazy to pop out those pins.

    After I check on a few things on the net, I'll go start on BumbleBee.
     
  7. Slipstreamer 8

    Slipstreamer 8 Well-Known Member

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    also I just noticed this...... But when u look in the inside of FE Bumblebee's foot there seems to be what looks like wheels that are unpainted. Just saying because the RID Bumblebee follows the same leg transformation.
     
  8. ZeltraxMilleniu

    ZeltraxMilleniu Active Member

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    Well, I just looked at mine and my R.I.D BumbleBee doesn't have wheels molded into the insides of his feet.

    Well, BumbleBee is done. I'll leave the pics attached so you can look at them.

    I did hand-paint the whole thing and gave it a shot of clear-coat around 5 Pm last night.

    The color-rundown:
    Testors Enamel Gloss Yellow, Testors Enamel Gloss Red, Games-Workshop Blazing Orange, Games-Workshop Boltgun-Metal, Krylon flat black, Testors Model Masters Black Metallic, Testors Model Masters Gunmetal, Krylon Ocean Blue, and finally Testors Enamel Silver.

    Hope you guys like the pics and both Cliffjumper will be worked on as soon as I get some new paint.
     

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  9. tb-1599

    tb-1599 Well-Known Member

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    how did you paint the parts metalic red? Brush or Airbrush??
     
  10. Slipstreamer 8

    Slipstreamer 8 Well-Known Member

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    I didn't know, overall I like how it turned out !!!
     
  11. ZeltraxMilleniu

    ZeltraxMilleniu Active Member

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    Thanks for the compliment. I'm quite happy for my first Transformers Prime custom on this forum. I'm waiting until the 15th to get some new paint for the Cliffjumper customs so, once I get those new paints, I can start on the 2 Cliffjumpers.
     
  12. daelf1980

    daelf1980 Well-Known Member

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    im in the process of doing my tfp figures also. i have posted pics so far. your BB looks great. one question, why didnt you paint the front turn signals?
     
  13. ZeltraxMilleniu

    ZeltraxMilleniu Active Member

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    I did paint the front turn signals in that metallic black but, now that you mention it, I may go back and paint them up in a deep blue or something like that.
     

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