Minor/Repaint: ROTF Megatron (WIP) Advice Needed

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by Bovril, Jun 9, 2010.

  1. Bovril

    Bovril Critical Miss!

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    (1st post edited for convenience) Megs is looking pretty bad*ss now :D  Still working on vehicle mode but shouldn't take long, then it's onto the dreaded painting!
     

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  2. The Deej

    The Deej Well-Known Member

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    All the parts for the missle firing mechanism are a little further down the pins that connect the claw shield thing. When you're curring in, there should be a hole that you can see another piece of plastic where you'll mount the elbow to the lower arm. As long as you don't mess with that, it'll be fine.

    I've included a rough diagram of the inside of Megs arm for your reference.


    Also, I used hot glue from a glue gun. It's a cheap alternative. It seemed to work for me and the guy who has my Megs now hasn't told me of any problems with the arm yet. I'd still recommend the higher grade stuff though.
     

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  3. Bovril

    Bovril Critical Miss!

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    Thanks Deej, that picture is incredibly useful :D 

    Would you recommend an undercoat before painting?
    Were you able to paint it without knackering the electrics?
    I'm hoping to incorporate an on/off switch for the internal lights, since they're rather cool.
     
  4. The Deej

    The Deej Well-Known Member

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    The biggest thing with the electronics for me was that the left chest light like to get caught in it's hole. It's important to keep this in mind when dissassembling his chest because on my first one after having to dissassemble his chest after painting him (don't ask why) I accidentially ripped the light right off the wires. I'm pretty sure this is a common problem it was tight on both my megatrons. Just sand out the hole a bit and it should be fine. There should be a small hole around the light when you're dissassembling which you can get a screwdriver through to push it out from the front side.

    As for the undercoating, I sand off the existing paint as much as I can, focusing on edges and coat it with flat black. You wanna focus on the edges more because that's where the paint will chip first, and it bonds to the plastic better if you remove the factory paint first. The rubbery bits will give you some trouble unless you're using acrylic paints. If you're using enamels then coat it with acrylic first (I used acrylic future floor polish).

    As for rewiring the lights to include an on/off switch, I can't really help you with that. I have no experience with electronics at all.
     
  5. Bovril

    Bovril Critical Miss!

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    Well his arm has been nicely bisected now (as has my finger, but I won't bore you with that)... Mixmaster is in about a hundred pieces and I've grafted the appropriate hinge onto the 'Murder Arm'.

    [​IMG]

    The shoulder half needed a 'plug' since there was nothing to attach the hinge to... I simply grafted one out of Mixmaster's hood using a hand file. When the glue on that has set, I can combine the two and post some images.

    In the end I opted for a simple swivel joint, it will only allow 2-way movement but it will prevent the cannon arm from sagging in tank mode. As a bonus, the gun still fires.

    The only downside is the extra arm length will prevent the cannon from locking in the forward position in tank mode, which was also the trigger for the sound effect when you fire the gun (only works in tank mode). No big loss, I'll probably make some minor adjustments to the gun so it doesn't just look misaligned.
     
  6. Bovril

    Bovril Critical Miss!

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    Wow, getting the final 2 components to stick together is a nightmare. I've had to construct some kinda crazy 'glueing jig' to hold everything in place, fingers crossed it staysd put!
     
  7. Solrac333

    Solrac333 G1 got it right!

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    Very nice. I'm working on the same thing. I used Scorpnok's elbow joint. I noticed the same thing about the tank mode too.

    What are you going to do about the gimp arm.
     
  8. Tom_Servo

    Tom_Servo Well-read chick magnet

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    I did the same thing cutting right there. I used a Lego Knights elbow joint on the murder arm and NeoShifter parts on the gimp arm. I based my design on Frenzy_Rumble's and a few others'. Neither mod significantly affects the transformation.
    Link
    Sorry I didn't post more WIP pics.
     
  9. Bovril

    Bovril Critical Miss!

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    I've heard several people mention Skorponok's elbow for this mod, it would probably be a lot less fiddly than the contraption I'm now finishing off!

    For the gimp arm, I'm considering having the blade section of the murder arm be removable, so it can be attached to the gimp arm and balance them out. Tom_Servo just gave me an idea of how to do it, if you read below :)  I'm of the opinion that overall aesthetic is more important than movie-accuracy.

    Lovely, just lovely! Would love some detailed info about removing the electronics (for painting purposes) and general advice about paints to use... Enamel or Acrylic best for this sort of thing? How did you go about painting those 'gears' in his chest? etc. etc. :p 

    Oh, and using Lego - GENIUS! I wish I'd thought of that. And it's just given me an idea - I'm going to try using a couple of those tiny circular flat pieces to make detachable weapons! There must be a lego brick down the back of a cupboard somewhere...
     
  10. Bovril

    Bovril Critical Miss!

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    Well I had a bit of trouble getting the upper and lower arms glued together, even with the aid of a jig. So I've come up with this: A plastic 'ring' on the end of one, and a plastic 'spoke' on the other. Hopefully this will keep everything in place long enough for the glue to set, and make the joint stronger in the long run.

    I'm also going to build up the area around each construction seam to strengthen it and make the chop-shoppyness of it less noticable.

    Ring:
    [​IMG]
    Spoke:
    [​IMG]

    Ignore all the crap in the background :p 



    edit: What's Neoshifter?
    edit2: ok they're basically just bionicle then. but looks like they go pretty cheap on ebay so may grab some for parts! good tip :) 
     
  11. Solrac333

    Solrac333 G1 got it right!

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  12. Bovril

    Bovril Critical Miss!

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    Great video, many thanks for that!

    What did you use to glue the skorponok joint in place? I'm using 2-part epoxy and I'm having real trouble with the glue holding up to the stress placed on the joint... i.e. it falls apart when I bend the arm. Admittedly I'm not using the same parts but same principle here.
     
  13. Bovril

    Bovril Critical Miss!

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    Well my Lego seems to have been sold off several years ago, which presents a slight problem.

    I don't suppose anyone has a few of these pieces going spare?

    [​IMG]

    I'm in the UK :) 
     
  14. Tom_Servo

    Tom_Servo Well-read chick magnet

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    The Scorponok shoulder looks great on there! As does the first movie arm. How does that arm look in tank mode? It looks too big to fit under the cannon. Does it lay along side?
    Those Lego buttons shouldn't be to hard to find at the toy store. I don't know how the toy situation is where you are, but a lot of big stores will sell little booster packs of Lego parts. There are even a few cheap Lego compatable sets you could look into.
    About the paints, I didn't remove anything to paint him. I mostly used spray paint. The important thing is to not get any spray paint on the soft rubber parts. I removed or masked off all of them before I painted, I ended up replacing most or all of them with hard epoxy and styrene blades, so painting wasn't an issue. The reason is, the solvents in spray paint, or any enamel paint, will interact with soft plastics. The paint won't set and the parts will be sticky for weeks. You'll have to use acrylic paints on the soft bits.
    For the gears in the chest, I fired the spray paint right in there while spinning the gears to get them all coated. I kept the can a few inches back and used short bursts so it didn't get gummed up. As for the rest, I primed with flat black and used a combination of copper and silver with more flat black on top for weathering. Then when that was all dry I detailed with black washes and colored details. I threw in a lot of green around the cracks for algae and such.
    I hope that helps.
     
  15. Bovril

    Bovril Critical Miss!

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    Tom - if you didn't remove anything to paint him, did it not black out his lighting gimmick?

    What is this hard epoxy you speak of? I use 2-part epoxy resin for glue-ing but something sculptable would be amazing!

    I was planning to paint solely in Arcylic anyway, since I used to use it 10 years or so back when I was into Warhammer. Seems people don't use it much for TFs, any reason that you know of?

    Thanks for the contributions, everyone :)  Oh - and the arm seems to be holding together this time, woo!
     
  16. Bovril

    Bovril Critical Miss!

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    It's coming along nicely now...

    Claw retracted
    [​IMG]

    Claw extended
    [​IMG]

    Tank mode
    [​IMG]
     
  17. Bovril

    Bovril Critical Miss!

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    Well work has progressed in leaps and bounds, I got some lego bits off ebay to make the claw thing detachable. Still working on altmode but bot mode is about done:

    [​IMG]

    As I said before, screen-accuracy can get stuffed, I just wanted a more appealing Megatron and I think I got one :) 
     
  18. hunterelf

    hunterelf Decepticon

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    nice job with the elbow
     
  19. Bovril

    Bovril Critical Miss!

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    Tank mode:

    [​IMG]

    As you can see it's a little longer than before and the shield thing sits slightly differently, but its actually more poseable now. Gun still fires and gun sound effect can still be triggered by the button on meg's back. Am working on disabling the auto-fire in the shoulder 'cus it's so annoying.

    Next: Paint!
     
  20. Solrac333

    Solrac333 G1 got it right!

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    Looking great!

    Ooops! Sorry, I didn't see this post. Here's how I did it.
    ProCustomizers.com
     

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