Heavy/Scratch: Robot Heroes Boombox WIP

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by Pimp My Toy, May 25, 2010.

  1. Pimp My Toy

    Pimp My Toy AKA Jimster

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    Update: link to the competition entry with final photos
    http://www.tfw2005.com/boards/tfw2005-boombox-contest/311281-robot-heroes-custom-series-boombox.html


    Hi there. Thought I'd finally jump in at the deep end and post something here after spending a great length of time lurking...

    So, here's a little dev diary I'll keep up to date for my TFW2005 contest entry.

    I started this shortly after seeing the new about the contest and having scoured the net for a few sculpting tips I began to create my first action figure.

    I've bought a few RH blind packs in the past for my son, but unfortunately never found a Soundwave who could have made for some good reference material. Therefore, I've made him in a similar stature to Movie Blackout of which we have three (much to my son's dismay).

    So I've started with an armature of aluminium wire (sold as jewellers wire) bent with pliers into similar proportions to blackout. The wire is fed through the plastic base and secured with some modelling clay on the underside to keep it upright. The thicker wire is then wrapped with a lighter gauge wire so that the modelling clay has something to adhere to and not slip. I have left the arms separate so that the figure will have some articulation.

    Once the armature was complete and the pose adequate I started to flesh out the main shapes with Fimo (found widely here in the UK), a baking clay similar to that of Sculpey III in the US.

    When happy with the rough shape I baked the clay to harden it and once this had cooled I went about adding further detail with an air-hardening clay commonly called 'green stuff'. Being a complete newbie to all this it tends to stiffen a bit too soon as it's taking a while to get the sculpt I want, but it seems to be going okay so far.

    I've got to finish the leg details and the head but I'd be interested if anyone has any advice or C&C that I can incorporate into the piece.

    I'm seriously not looking forward to the antennae. God forbid it should end up looking like Movie Jazz with those daft bunny ears :S
     

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  2. Demonss

    Demonss Well-Known Member

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    Wow man! A custom robot hero.. That's pretty neat!!
    It's looking good so far! Keep up the good work!

    I will always be envious of people who can sculpt something out of clay.. That's a talent I just flat out do not have!
     
  3. rumsawatti

    rumsawatti Dino-bot

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    thats awesome!!!! not a fan of RHs but this definitely is a keeper...hope ur son likes...:D 
     
  4. gargunkle

    gargunkle someone

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    A custom sculpted RH? Man that's impressive. It looks like a real retail release (I'm saying that it looks fantastic!).
     
  5. jestermon

    jestermon Well-Known Member

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    That is what sucks about Robot Heroes, sculpting is the only way to get those soft lines and shapes, unless you use pieces from other bots.

    This guy is great looks liek a prototype, there was another guy that sculpted a Headmaster and crocodile, I would have bought that in the store in a second.

    You should keep them comming.
     
  6. Rhinox555

    Rhinox555 Insert clever joke here.

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    Oh wow. It's been said a bunch of times already but a goddamn scratchbuilt robot hero that actually looks 100% like a robot heroes figure? That's just made of win!
     
  7. Kaymac

    Kaymac I'M REALLY FEELIN' IT!

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    Looking good so far! Keep up the awesome work. Can't wait to see it fully painted.
     
  8. destrongerlupus

    destrongerlupus #MoreSawBoss

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    VERY impressive! Especially for your first go at this!
     
  9. caitlindevi

    caitlindevi Sculpticon

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    great minds think alike ;) 

    There is a version of sculpey called sculpey firm. its less translucent and if mixed with fimo (or sculpey III) it becomes a bit firmer and you can get nice sharp edges.

    Good idea to use the greenstuff. If you get some miliput and mix it in with the green stuff you can get some really nice material to sand once its hardened

    If you want some decent tools try tiranti.co.uk

    Allsorts of sculpey and stuff http://www.polymerclaypit.co.uk/ThePolymerClayPit.asp

    As for the 'ears'/antenna I'd advise making the separately with the green stuff then fixing them in place once they've hardened.

    If you need any more sculpting tips just ask, I've worked as a professional sculptor for the best part of 12 years
     
  10. Pimp My Toy

    Pimp My Toy AKA Jimster

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    Thanks for the positive comments! It's good to know I'm heading in the right direction.

    Caitlindevi, many thanks for the tips. I have a box of milliput that I was going to use on my next sculpt (I've got the bug for this now) so I could compare the different compounds. I hadn't thought of mixing it with the greenstuff. One thing I've found with the greenstuff is that it's still a little flexible once hardened (feeling only slightly stuffer than a true Robot Hero) which makes me think sanding/filing the final piece will be a little difficult. Maybe I could add additional hardener but mixing with milliput sounds like a damn good tip.

    I'll keep a look out for some Sculpey Firm but Sculpey appears to be in limited supply in the UK. Maybe I'll have a skim through ebay as it would be useful - it would probably be easier to work in more detail in the rough sculpt to save time squaring up corners after the bake. [Edit - just noticed the website you suggested is UK based; excellent - thanks again!]

    I did make a set of 'ears' separately but they are thin and quite flexible. Having tried them out I don't think they fit with the RH aesthetic so I may go for something a bit shorter and stubbier.

    Anyway, here's the latest update with the leg detail and a shot of the back. Just have to do the ears, a bit of fine sanding and it'll be painting time.

    If I wanted to cast this could it be done after painting or does it need to be done before?
     

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  11. cheetor71

    cheetor71 Autobot

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    What else can I say. I'm impressed. That really does look like it was bought in the store. If you don't win something for this I'll be disappointed. :thumb  :thumb 
     
  12. caitlindevi

    caitlindevi Sculpticon

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    mixing greenstuff and miliput removes the flex of the green stuff and smoothes out miliput(which can be a bit coarse).

    I'm UK based myself and those are the sites I get my materials from (although I get regular super sculpy from Tiranti rather than polymer claypit as its cheaper there)

    I made the antenna/ears shorter on my Animiated Boombox you can see how that turned out on the Boombox entries page.

    You can cast at anystage. For one off moulds I'd suggest Siligum as its relativly cheap and clean to use. Its a two part putty that you mix by hand (like a rubbery plastercine) and apply to what you want to mould. It hardens really quickly so you have to be quick, but it also mean you can demould in about 15 mins and be pouring resin striaght away.

    Siligum is really usful if you want to replicate a piece from a toy without having to dismantle it
     
  13. Pimp My Toy

    Pimp My Toy AKA Jimster

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    A little update on progress...

    Boombox is now primed and has had some final details added to his face. He got the spray treatment three days ago but the primer is still a bit tacky, especially the underside of his feet. I'm hoping it's not a reaction to the clay/putty and just a very slow drying primer.

    It's coated in Plastikote Primer Super.The only other thing I sprayed with this was the back of a cell phone which stayed tacky for a while too - I had assumed it was because of the coating on the phone.

    I'm off on holiday so he'll have plenty of time to fully cure. If there's no improvement he'll be stripped down and another primer used.
     

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  14. Pimp My Toy

    Pimp My Toy AKA Jimster

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    On the subject of holidays, I'll be taking these fellas and my putty with me. Kudos to anyone that can identify which TF & non-TF these will become... Further WIP pics later - I don't want to make it too easy ;) 

    And any suggestions for other projects for me to start; while stuck in Wales with rain and sheep for company; are most welcome!
     

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    Last edited: Jun 5, 2010
  15. robvega214

    robvega214 Mp5_Brut

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    that conan obrien?.....i want 1
     
  16. caitlindevi

    caitlindevi Sculpticon

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    OOo Matt Smith Time Squad!
    I was actually thinking of doing a timesquad Tardis...mainly because it looks like the line has been scrapped now
     
  17. Pimp My Toy

    Pimp My Toy AKA Jimster

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    I had to google Conan O'Brien to find out he wasn't an Irish barbarian. I can see where you're coming from with that hair style though ;) 

    Give that girl a cigar! Got it in one. I spend more time fiddling with the cybermen and daleks than my son. Can't be healthy. I had to 'confiscate' a dalek because his eye fell off. I'll let him have it back one day... It may be mad but I've an urge to do the other nine doctors eventually, along with a tardis. If I come across another dalek figure it'll be a quick mod into a WWII Bracewell dalek too.

    No takers on the TF figure? I thought the big shoulder and head would be a giveaway :D 

    Still open to suggestions for other TFs that never made the RH lineup.
     
  18. Maloknazh

    Maloknazh Black Metal Ist Krieg

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    Animated Shockwave is what comes to mind with that figure there!

    Speeking of Animated Robot Heroes, Id love to see an Animated OP Robot Hero! Id totally buy that! :) 
     
  19. caitlindevi

    caitlindevi Sculpticon

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    You need to be careful with Sculpey and sprays. If the sculpey isn't fully baked the remaining oil leeches out from it to the surface of the model and it'll interacted with painted surfaces and plastics in a really odd way. If you have a piece of plasticard around leave a small ball of uncured sculpey on it for a couple of days.
    I tend to only use Halfords acrylic car primer on models (especially on sculpey ones) and spray on in light layers from a distance.
    For getting into white for painting I use Games Workshop skull white spray.

    If its still tacky try putting it back in the oven for a longer time on a lower heat and leave in the oven, when you turn off the heat, to cool down (I've found its the action of cooling down which hardens the sculpey) before trying to strip it....sculpey can react with stripping stuff if not fully baked and rebaking might mean you don't need to

    Don't forget to post it in the competition thread too when its done
     
  20. caitlindevi

    caitlindevi Sculpticon

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    just wanted to remind you to not to forget topost this in the competition thread
     

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