id glue it together and have ago at recasting it.... Ive not casted any parts before, therefore its just a though...
I know people don't like "necroing" a thread, but I can't post new threads due to the fact that I've not been in these forums in a long time. I'm looking for a break-down of the electronics PCB of shockwave (actually galactic man, but it is 100% identical, save for the color of the plastic). I have one with water damage and after replacing all of the capacitors, it now does "something" but sounds like a fire alarm and not a gun. One problem is that due to the water damage I can't see how the circuit board is supposed to look on the back or the front. Corrosion was terrible. It also looks like the original soldering was not the greatest job. I can't find any photos of the original electronics anywhere.
I really appreciate the effort. Your video is useful because I can pause it and see the orientation of the capacitors. What I was really looking for I was a photo of the PCB magnified (front and back) and schematics, if possible (although I would have difficulty interpreting it). In any case, I was able to repair the electronics last night. As it turns out, many traces on the circuit board had completely disintegrated (again, water damage). This was causing part of the circuit to be bypassed. To fix that I had to rebuild a trace running from a 2.2 uf 50 volt cap to a resistor on the lower right hand corner of the PCB. Predictably, that brought back the correct sounds. I had already found a lot of broken traces. There are some things I do to these figures that are not shown in the video: (1) I reduce the size of all of the springs with a dremel to remove the tension that causes the screws to strip and the plastic posts to break. I've found that makes a huge difference and stops a lot of figures from separating. (Edit: Whoops, I see he actually does that! My bad.) (2) Instead of using larger screws, which further weakens the weak plastic, I completely rebuild the screw mounts. (3) If necessary, I reduce the width of the part of the trigger that is inside the figure to improve clearance for the legs and keep the trigger from "sticking" in gun mode. This is often a problem with the Chinese KO Shockwaves and the Taiwan Astro Magnums due to quality control issues in the production of these things. (4) I glue small strips of ordinary paper to the inside of the legs, right under the grooves. This makes the "step" that the knee assembly "locks" into when standing more firm, so the leg doesn't just collapse. On some Taiwan Astro Magnum figures, I do the opposite and cover the lower groove so the legs don't get stuck in gun mode. *On the new Chinese KO Shockwaves (and the Astro Magnums with plastic feet) the grooves have been removed, so legs tend to just collapse. However, the knees still have the points that lock into the grooves so you can rebuild the grooves just by gluing paper where they were supposed to be. This causes the legs to lock into position, just like the original shockwave did (minus the breaking part). (5) Often the flaps above the legs on the torso area are broken. Those can be completely rebuilt with a care. For Shockwave, I found the closest paint match to the plastic was grape mixed with gray/black. For Astro Magnum, I found the closest match was gray mixed with gold. This allows any area rebuilt from scratch to pretty closely match the original figure. The Galactic Man in my picture has a right flap that was completely rebuilt by hand. (6) Often the forearms are broken off at the joints. An easy fix for this is to completely remove the section that is held in side the shoulder. Then drill a hole where that was originally, and then glue an ATX case screw (the round ones) into place, replacing the part that broke off. That gives the figure metal elbow joints instead of plastic. (7) A cheaper fix for the wire hose is just to use discarded USB cable. You simply remove the shielding and the two wires you don't need and solder it in place. To get the look of the groove where the wire goes into the figure you can just use left over heat shrink. This looks basically the same as what the guy is doing in the video and is free. (8) I almost forgot. Most of these figures you find have the tip of the gun arm broken off. you can rebuild the tip by cutting cylinders of translucent plastic out of BIC velocity pencils. You'll make a small cylinder and then a larger cylinder for the end. Then, you can dye it translucent purple, pink, red, etc. The reason the tip breaks off is that people rock the barrel back and forth and the remove it from the figure in gun mode, which causes to the tip to snap off. So, I deliberately make the replacement tip shorter than the original. This bypasses that problem.
