Hi there, I had been using a testors model glue (orange tube) and worked ok, and in some cases super glue, but neither worked great. I also tried an epoxy that was decent, but not worth the trouble, and one of the adhesive components hardened in the tube after just a few uses. I'd be using it for low stress bonding, in most cases. I'd appreciate any recommendations. I've been stalled with my last couple of repaints because of the glue factor. Thanks everyone. Great stuff on this board lately.
You first need to tell us what you are trying to glue together. Injection molded plastic? Styrene? Metal?
I've used the Testors Super Glue without problems (of course, it will gunk up and harden a bit, but you can take a knife or needle and open it up again or clean it off some). For my recent Classics Galvatron kitbash, I used The Original Super Glue (non-clogging, Super Glue Pen--cyanoacrylate). It's basically in pen form and you push down onto the surface you want to apply the glue. It deposits small drops, so if you need a bit more, push it down until you reach the desired amount. Personally, this stuff was MUCH easier and cleaner to work with (I picked it up at a local Dollar General store of all places--but you should be able to find it at Target, Wal-Mart, etc.). As Bigbot3030 mentioned, you need to tell us what you're trying to glue together. There are certain glues for certain things. This glue pen was used on both styrene and on my actual figures.
I've used JB Weld in the past on various home projects with my father (before he passed away) and it worked great. So that's something else you can look at. Thanks for the tips, frenzy_rumble. I may have to check out the Super Glue Plastic Fusion myself.
Why the picture of that guy? Listen to F-R.. he has used enough bad glue to know what works!! I use the epoxy stuff.
Heres some info: http://www.tfw2005.com/radicons-customs/tutorials-and-how-tos-2/glues-for-projects-164138/ Like I said there, I use Devcon Plastic Welder....never failed me yet.
i tried to read that but the pages stuck together where do you ppl get ahold of this stuff? ive never heard of any of it. the nearest hobby/art store is 30 miles away so i dont visit them much. maybe that has something to do with it
you can get the plastic weld mentioned in the tutorial from Walmart, just like it says. I've also found it at Lowe's and Home Depot
are you kidding? where have you used it? I've used both continuously, and continue to use both. Through months of experimenting with both, I can safely say plastic fusion is MUCH stronger than JB weld. JB is a "most surfaces" apoxy, while Plastic Fusion is engineered for plastic, enough said. JB is great, I highly recommend it, but 2 hours of dry time and tiny tubes that never seem to close properly....plastic fusion literally bonds to the plastic. JB weld can and will crack off plastic, and crack itself.
Must be just me then but when I mix it it stays like a rubber for ever could not get anything to stick and stay even after an hour of molding it together. This was on the alternator piece, I used normal super glue instead and bam it was stuck and still is stuck. I still have it but I will only use it when it is my last resort after superglue and JB.
yeah, well you gotta be quick with it. it's a blessing and a curse at the same time. I personally hate set-up and drying time of regular apoxies. The window for the fusion is literally 3 minutes once they contact each other.
You can get JB Weld Qwik. It sets up in about 6 minutes. One thing I did notice, especially when reshelling Alts, is that it doesn't bond very well to the models plastic. But if it seperates, reglue it down with regular Testors glue and it'll hold forever. Regular JB Weld is nice because it kind of flows. So it's great for filling in areas.