Customs: Questions for Enamel Users

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by theban, Dec 14, 2008.

  1. theban

    theban New Member

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    Hi folks -
    Long time lurker, first-time poster. I was inspired to do a little custom paint work on my tf's after seeing some of your TF Movie customs. I started out with acrylics and had pretty good success, so I wanted to try my hand at enamels and had some questions.

    First off, I only use brushes currently. I don't use a primer on my figures as I don't have an outdoor place where I can use the Krylon spray that everyone recommends. I do wash them thoroughly first with dish soap. Never really had an adhesion problem with the acrylics, so hoping enamels won't be any different.

    Questions:
    1. How long should I wait between base coats? With the acrylics I would only wait about 10 minutes.

    2. If I'm trying to apply multiple thinned base coats, will the thinner in the 2nd coat affect the first coat?

    3. How long after the last base coat is applied can I drybrush or detail in a different color?

    Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
     
  2. Rhinox555

    Rhinox555 Insert clever joke here.

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    1. Can should say how long.
    3. Note that most brands of Enamels are unusable for drybrushing, use F_R's tutorial for the ones that can. Basecoat just needs to be dry enough to not accidentally come off during brushing.
    Dunno about 2 as i never use thinner.
     
  3. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

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    nice name "theban"

    1. How long should I wait between base coats? With the acrylics I would only wait about 10 minutes.

    This really depends on several things. To begin with, climate and temp where you're painting is critical. In a dry, warm environment, thin coats should be able to be painted on top of after 10-15 minutes, sometimes less. Flat finish paints dry even quicker. Remember, you're not looking for dry paint, just dry enought to paint another coat over. Painters call this flashing the paint. It's wet enough to soak in another coat, but dry enough to stay where it is.

    2. If I'm trying to apply multiple thinned base coats, will the thinner in the 2nd coat affect the first coat?
    Very much so. This is why it's important to let it dry a little.
    Matter of fact, thinner will move/loosen up paint from last week if you let it.

    3. How long after the last base coat is applied can I drybrush or detail in a different color?

    I usually wait an hour.

    Dry times on enamels isn't as bad as some people think. One of the pros and cons at the same time, is how enamel paint reacts to thinner. If I shake and go outside an area, I can "clean" that up with thinner, where with Acrylic, I'd need to touch that area up. Also, the longer period of dry time allows you to get in the second (or additional) coats on a semi-dry (optimal) base coat.
     
  4. theban

    theban New Member

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    Thanks for the quick responses - that is exactly the information I was looking for - couldn't find it in any tutorials. I'm currently trying the flat black w/ drybrushing for the robotic parts before moving on to any more complicated paintwork.

    FYI - I chose the name because I'm a big classical history buff. Never thought I would actually use it - but you guys are so helpful I thought I'd try.
     
  5. Rhinox555

    Rhinox555 Insert clever joke here.

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    Quick hint, i suggest Tamiya matt black for basecoat, it's smooth, and the most durable stuff i've ever encountered.
     
  6. theban

    theban New Member

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    I have heard people suggest Tamiya but have never seen it in a local hobby store here - may need to order it online.

    Earlier today I applied two coats of thinned down Testors Model Master Flat Black to a grey test piece - it looks good from a distance but up close you can see the brush marks if held in the light. Not sure if I used too much thinner or not enough...
     
  7. Rhinox555

    Rhinox555 Insert clever joke here.

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    Yeah they can be hard to find and are fairly expensive. But god i love them, i find that their matt black has a high bonding material. Smells like HELL during drying and bonding but dang, that stuff holds to the plastic perfectly even if you did a bunch of stuff wrong, like forgetting to de-grease the surface, using only one coat, and/or overspraying.
    Every color uses different components though and as such has different bonding quality, durability, and thickness. I find brown spray to be literally shit.
     
  8. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

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    Anything that will get the silver drybrushed on it, I usually take apart from the rest of the model, and spray with Krylon Fusion Camouflage - it's VERY flat and extremely durable.
     

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