Heavy/Scratch: Project DOTM Leader Class Ironhide MK II by Zebu

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by godzebu, Sep 4, 2011.

  1. godzebu

    godzebu Well-Known Member

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    Latest update (11 SEP 11): Project complete!

    *IMPORTANT NOTE*
    This was a commissioned work (customer I.D and price is confidential..Thank you in advance for not asking). Unfortunately, I do not take commission at this time for a personal reason.
    _____________________________________________________________
    No significant improvment from MK I other than stable LED work for the chest.

    Work list:
    1. LED changed to blue on head.
    2. LEDs installed on chests.
    3. All original electrical works intacted with newly installed chest LEDs intergraded to light up and blink when his head LED is triggered.
    4. Custom weapons set with LED intergration.
    5. Knee modifications to allow 90 degree range of motion (5 ratchet joints utilization on both legs).
    6. Fully articulated hands (15 points of articulation on each hand) installed.
    7. Arm kibbles removed and stored on the back in robot mode with rare earth magnets.
    8. Fully painted with multi-layer lacquer paints (surfacer, Mr. Color: Chrome Silver, Mr Color: Super Flat Black) with partial dry brushing and finished with two layers of TOPCOAT (gloss).
    9. Face mask resigned to stay down (reversed the spring machnism and stays up by magnets).
    10. FULLY TRANSFORMABLE!!

    I think that is about it...as I mentioned earlier, no drastic changes from MK I
    Enjoy and feel free to PM me any questions.

    I'm uploading plenty of photos for those who want to use them as reference. None of my photos are Photoshoped so you can see exactly what the figure look alike in normal lights.

    FYI, my next project will be DOTM Leader Class Ironhide MK III (will be known as IH MK III from now on :) ).

    Thanks

    Zebu

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  2. rxlthunder

    rxlthunder Banned

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    Hahaha, got your arms!
    Anyway, good start!
     
  3. big hank

    big hank Resident Slacker-Basher

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    Looks great bro, the roof lights should be easy enough for you they seem made for lighting.
     
  4. OMEGAPRIME1983

    OMEGAPRIME1983 Well-Known Member

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    looking mighty fine.. funny how the fog lights in the front bumper seem to of been MADE for LEDs.. LOL!! Looks good with the lights.
     
  5. godzebu

    godzebu Well-Known Member

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    Yes, they both seem to be made for LED installations. Again, the issue is transformation. I'll work on them once this project has been done. MK II probable will not feature LED on the roof and the front bumper.

    MK III (coming with detail WIP in.......few months) should have roof and the front bumper LEDs. I transform my figures several time a week (personal collection only, not the ones for commission or for sale so don't worry if you purchased one from me LOL, I didn't sell ya the 'asbued' figure:) ).
    So it is very important to make sure that LED work doesn't fail after just few transformations (or worse, make the figure so fragile, that it makes a bad idea to transform at all). I got some time to spend on the drawing board to make sure that LED installation on the roof and the front bumper follows (my) rule.

    :) 
     
  6. ThinkTank Customs

    ThinkTank Customs TFW2005-Citizen

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    Very good Start again, really Love your work.

    I think waist articulation is easier to create than we think, Cut the waist and add a ratchetjoint. Maybe the Joint of energon tidal wave could work? What so you think?
     
  7. godzebu

    godzebu Well-Known Member

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    Thanks buddy,

    As far as the waiste articulation... you are right on the 'geneal idea'.

    "CUT and REPLACE" is the simplest concept(which I do everytime I do my project, break it down to the simpest concept first and work my way up).

    The hard part is in the detail.

    If you see the LC IH, it has deceptively "long" hop area from front to back with back ending with area that houses switch for the sound. If I cut it all the way through, then we are deailing with yet again wiring via rotational joint with I hate more than anything else (I rather now do the mod than having a figure that should not be play with because it is so fragile).

    Right now, I'm thinking of doing partical cut (immediately behind his hip and butt area) and install one of the joints from gundam model kit (I trust the gundam model kits for the parts since they are argueably the most relieable model kits out there).

    Anyways, all these are on my drawing board and my head now. My main thing is finish MK II and work on MK III (to keep, no more commissioned Leader CLass IH from me :) ).

    Thanks for sharing your thoughts, keep'em comin'
     
  8. jcartwork

    jcartwork Well-Known Member

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    great stuff lookin forward
     
  9. OMEGAPRIME1983

    OMEGAPRIME1983 Well-Known Member

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    I just watched frenzy_rumbles LED tutorial, and he uses somber kind of super flexible enamel coated wiring. He was thing and pulling on it after soldering it together, and it never broke, so I would say try to find some of that seeing how your so concerned with fragility. Which you have every right to be so about.
     
  10. godzebu

    godzebu Well-Known Member

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    Funny that you mentioned that. It is a enamel coated copper wiring. I've already ordered and on its way.

    Here is what I have done so far to solve fragility issues (again, detail WIP will be posted on Ironhide MK III and not on this thread).

    1. Bench testing on the wires: Enamel coated copper wiring vs. Blue insulated wrapping wire (which I've been using). So far, "Insulated wrapping wire (30AWG)" served me well has rubberized insulated coat around the wire so it protects from pretty rough abuse (i.e. bending it 90 degrees multiple times). But I'll check to see how this new copper wire will hold up once it gets here.

    2. Intergrating the wires within the figure: I alway do extensive studies on the transformation and the design of the figure so that I can make systematic/intellegent drilling so that wires are not exposed during transformation unless absoutely necessary. For example, the wires on the heads of Ironhide MKI and MKII are completely internal with base of the neck having extra 3 cm of wires this combined with the fact that Leader Class IH's head is designed not to rotate 360 degrees keep the wires from being damaged during normal/heavy play. Ironhide MK II's chest LED wires started at his battery box and follows until the top of the battery box (internally), then it enters inside the figure (below the head cavities) via small holes I drilled and comes out again at the base of his front hood henge. From there, two sets of wires were wrapped around the pivoting henge where his chests connect to the body then to LED that is installed at his chest head lights. This way, wires are protected from being rubbed against the figure and can be pulled (with pretty good force), and won't disconnect from the LED

    3. New lighting materials: I've ordered some insulated fiber optic cables. Altough these may not be the best materials for lighting where there need to be a bright light, I think this will work for more sublte lighting like Ironhide's roof LEDs.

    I'm going to do some more bench tests and improve the LED methods before putting them on MK III version.

    Thanks for the comments all these ideas inspries me more and more... (my head hurts ^_^).
     
  11. big hank

    big hank Resident Slacker-Basher

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    You sound like me with all the tinkering. I can attest to the enamel coated magnet wire as I have been using it for years. I also regularly use the Wrapping wire you mentioned, both for soldering and for wire wrapping (imagine that). Both have merits, although I would use the wrapping wire in most cases unless size constraints leaned me towards magnet wire. Either one will serve loyally so tinker around with both. I can wholeheartedly recommend both types.
     
  12. godzebu

    godzebu Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Big H! (oh by the way, I may have sent a potential client to your way, someone asked me to do some LED commission work and I felt you were more qualified....:) ).

    I been using wrapping wires for most of my custom work so I feel most comfortable. I feel equally great about the copper wire now that you recommend it as well. Thanks
     
  13. big hank

    big hank Resident Slacker-Basher

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    No problem! When you get it, it's covered in a thin coating of enamel. It almost looks like it's plated on (microns thin). You will have to scrape off the enamel with a blade before you tin the wire with solder, pretty easy though.

    It is the absolute best for tight spots though, here's the magnet wire at work in a 3 3/4" Iron Man:

    [​IMG]


    Oh, and trhanks for the client! He emailed me already.
     
  14. OMEGAPRIME1983

    OMEGAPRIME1983 Well-Known Member

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    I so can not wait to see what you com cup with, with all of these methods you have going on during the bench testing..
     
  15. godzebu

    godzebu Well-Known Member

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    Picture set 2, all updates are on the first post.

    Thanks

    Zebu
     

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  16. godzebu

    godzebu Well-Known Member

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    Picture set 3, all updates are on the first post.

    Thanks

    Zebu
     

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  17. RyanUybengkee

    RyanUybengkee Well-Known Member

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    GOODNESS gracious dude! this is just so delicious. I love it. Best ironhide ever. You sir are my newest hero. Good work...(understated).. excellent work!! wow. love every shot. the primer pics alone stunned me...
    the finish? i had a heart attack.

    great job sir..impressive!!


    Ryan
     
  18. daimchoc

    daimchoc Well-Known Member

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  19. Shelbo

    Shelbo Hur hur

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    That is absolutely amazing!
     
  20. OMEGAPRIME1983

    OMEGAPRIME1983 Well-Known Member

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    Great work so far bro! Can't wait to see the photo shoot!
     

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