Customs: Priming/Base coat coverage

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by IceWilly, Jan 14, 2010.

  1. IceWilly

    IceWilly Technobot

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    So I've been researching the repainting stuff for a few weeks now, asking questions and gathering information. I usually take advice found here over some of the Warhammer guys I talk to, but I still have some questions that maybe some of you can clear up.

    Priming paints, some people swear by them (seemingly those who can air brush them on quickly and easily) and others who don't bother to use them. Can anyone illustrate why one way is better or worse, and also recommend types? I have seen some airbrush clear priming paints in the hobby stores, and I know Testors seems to have a spray can of toxic stuff, but I simply haven't found a gleaming recommendation for one yet.

    Base coat coverage What is the best way to effectively cover up the priming coat, whether it be a white/black/silver primer... with minimal layers.

    Warhammer guys do it all with brush on their small figures, and use "foundation" paints that seem to have a thicker pigment to cover better. Do any of you utilize such paints or do you go for the regular paints and just use enough coats that you finally get full coverage. Since Warhammer guys use such little amounts of paint, I can't really see how their methods would be at all economical for a large transformer, especially in my learning stage.

    I am trying to figure out just how much expensive paint everyone is using to cover up their figures. Again, my questions pertains to both airbrush and hand brushed scenarios. I won't be purchasing an airbrush until I learn hand brushing techniques to where i am satisfied.

    and finally, how much paint do you guys go through? Say I was trying to repaint a classics seeker as a solid color. How much paint does that take with an airbrush or with a hand brush? a bottle? fraction of a bottle? I have no concept at all about this, but it might make me rest a little easier if it wasn't all that much.

    Thanks, and look forward to learning more!
     
  2. IceWilly

    IceWilly Technobot

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    bump, anyone?
     
  3. Superquad7

    Superquad7 We're only human. Super Mod

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    No, bumping threads are not permitted unless in sales threads like the Junkion Exchange or the Radicons Junk Pit. Thanks :thumb 
     
  4. knoted

    knoted Resistor Transistor

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    I would advise against brushpainting primer ; because, there will always be uneven brushstrokes, which will be evident through your base paint layer.

    Yes, wargamers use a brush, because they're painting small play pieces which have organic uneven shapes.

    With TF's you need a supersmooth layer of primer first. I use a 400ml Vallejo spray can primer myself, but Testors might have good spray cans too. 200ml will probably already be enough to prime 2 voyager class figures. It's always good to have enough primer. You'll be using that spray can for more than 1 figure.

    Disassemble your TF ; only keep parts together which can be sprayed in one continious spray stroke. Basically, it's best to make a planning so you can keep track of the parts & screws as you will be going through the priming proces.

    Then, wash those TF parts first in soapy water; let it dry over night.

    Then put on your latex gloves and use the (make sure you have many) twisty ties from your TF packaging to string up each seperate TF part to a twisty tie.

    Then go outside ( it needs to be dry and no-wind weather ) with the spray can and your TF parts ( you should still wear the gloves ).

    Have a drying rack ready ; each time when you're done with one part; you can hang it to the rack with the twisty tie.

    So, to start ; Grab the outer end of a twisty tie with a TF part and carefully apply a thin continious spray stroke. I'd suggest keeping the spray distance about 2 feet away from the to be primed TF part. If you spray too close, you might overdose and then the primer will clog up, thus not being able to dry.

    Once you've covered all TF parts in a nice thin layer of primer and they're hanging to dry on the rack...you'll have to wait at least a day before the primer is really cured enough. Keep the rack inside, in case it might be raining during the night.

    Once that is done, you can start applying your base coat colour.
     
  5. Satomiblood

    Satomiblood Prototype Black

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    During warm weather months, I will use Krylon Camo black. But because it's cold right now and I don't like spraying indoors, I'll brushpaint my primer. I don't really use a special type of paint, just a a few layers of gray. The brushstrokes aren't too bad.
     
  6. IceWilly

    IceWilly Technobot

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    I seem to be able to find no shortage of spray can primer recommendations, but you are one of the first to say you have a brushpaint primer, what kind do you use?

    Also, in terms of the amount of paint used, any decent estimates on actual colors. Say if you were painting ROTF leader megatron all silver as your first coat, how much paint is that. Basically I ask because local people are trying to sell me on Citadel paints. I certainly appreciate using the best stuff, but I am trying to get an idea just how much plastic a 4$ bottle of their stuff will cover.
     
  7. Satomiblood

    Satomiblood Prototype Black

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    I don't use a special kind of paint when I brush it on. I'll just use gray hobby or craft paint.
     
  8. knoted

    knoted Resistor Transistor

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    If you're gonna brush it on, at least use a very fine brush.

    Brushstrokes in your primer layer are bad.

    For an all-silver paintscheme, I'd go for flat black primer.

    I used Vallejo game color on a ROTF voyager Megatron.
    Each bottle is 17ml ; more than enough to cover 1 voyager
    figure in 2 coats. So, for a Leader class, you might want
    to get two 17 ml bottles.

    Again..I would advise to get a spraycan primer though..
     
  9. IceWilly

    IceWilly Technobot

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    So it seems the logical way to go is now with an airbrush, plus they seem much cheaper than I original thought (i was estimating way too high). Please keep in mind that beyond the priming layer, I will be painting with all acrylics for the time being.

    I have only really seen Vallejo and Testors talked about for primers, spraycan or otherwise. Testors seems easier to acquire, and since I may do a larger purchase from them online maybe that is the way to go. Priming it outside is no longer an issue, but certainly a Sprayable acrylic primer might be great as well.

    Using the testors site, can anyone provide links to exactly what I should be looking at? Its hard to tell what categories are applicable when they talk about so much automotive stuff as well. A black, white, and possibly grey primer would be terrific.

    Similarly, for clearcoats... I know people talk highly of Future's Floor polish as a finishing step, and about the use of flat, semi-gloss, and gloss finishes. Should I still be looking at testors acrylics for this?

    Thanks in advance
     
  10. Superquad7

    Superquad7 We're only human. Super Mod

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    knoted, most of your process is spot on I think, except the brushing of primer. While I definitely see your reasoning, I've brushed on primer coats before with no problems. However, I'd add that I've used wet-sanding on most of my coats as well. If you're referring to brushing on a primer that will later be used for parts that are mostly sprayed, then I'd have to agree with ya there. Also, I don't use latex gloves. Again, I see your reasoning there as well. Like I said, I do feel you're spot on with your advice, though. The bulk of what you've posted is what many Radicons have been doing here for years, as you very well may know :) 

    I can't say I recommend using the craft paitn as a primer at all. I've found that the craft paint works well only if mixed with some other kind of modeling paint. Craft paint by itself doesn't work well at all, imo.
     
  11. knoted

    knoted Resistor Transistor

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    I know, but I sensed he was looking for a compressed novice walkthrough ; since most posts here only provide bits n pieces, he'd probably have to string together a lot of search button results to get a more complete picture.
     
  12. IceWilly

    IceWilly Technobot

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    the tutorial section has been very helpful, but some of it contradicts what I have been reading. I appreciate all the information given out thus far. Its hard to keep tabs on what everyone recommends, and more importantly where to source it all from
     
  13. Superquad7

    Superquad7 We're only human. Super Mod

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    Oh yeah, and most of what you posted is really good advice, as I said :)  I only found a few things that I noted that were contentious. :) 

    What have you found that contradictory? Also, what is it in contradiction to?

    As far as what everyone recommends, you'll find many artists will agree upon quite a few things, while you'll also find some other things that artists will have a very varied opinion on. One of the best things you can do there is experiment with a few things, and then find what works best for you :) 
     

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