Heavy/Scratch: Posable G1 Quickmix

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by SmokescreenSWE, Feb 18, 2008.

  1. SmokescreenSWE

    SmokescreenSWE Well-Known Member

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    Earlier I made a repaint of Movie Swindle using the head of Quickmix. Then, I started feeling a bit guilty. Quickmix was my second Transformer ever (after Smokescreen), although obviously not the one I took the head from (it's still safe and sound back home), and even though he's brickalicious he still has a certain value to me because of that.

    Nothing else to do than give him a proper makeover. I grabbed an extra Quickmix for $2 from a local seller and had a look at my shelves for a donor. I considered using the Energon combiner jets or tanks since they have good, posable and fairly generic arms and legs. However, I don't want to ruin my gestalts and they seem quite expensive to replace. Strongarm, on the other hand, is really cheap (having been repainted to hell and back) and if I want him back he would only cost $5 or so. The choice was made.

    How-to guide coming soon...
     

    Attached Files:

  2. The Wombat King

    The Wombat King Ruler of a distant land

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    Nicely done!
     
  3. SmokescreenSWE

    SmokescreenSWE Well-Known Member

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    First, let's have a look at the figures I'm using. Quickmix has a very simple transformation with arms that simply tuck under his barrel in truck mode, and legs that fold 180 degrees. The idea was to just replace the arms and upper legs. Additionally, I wanted to make his head turn. For this I needed the arms with their ball joints and the upper legs with ball joints from Strongarm. I figured out a way to add the head articulation with only the original parts.

    Dismantle the figure with all available screws, there aren't too many. If you're good at removing pins, separate his shoulders from the torso pieces. Let's start cutting! First, Quickmix, the upper body. I removed the arms and shoulder boxes with screws. You could keep the boxes to keep the broad shoulders of the original figure but it would really restrict his arm movement. Then I sawed off and sanded the remaining screwholes. For the waist, I first considered removing all traces of his legs from the torso part, up to the circles around the screws. However, since his barrel is jointed here, it would take some really careful sawing to keep that functionality. Additionally, the legs, with ball joints, are too wide to fit on the side of the existing "crotch piece" and still fit into the cab properly. Also, it would make him even shorter while my final decision makes him slightly taller than the original. So, I sawed off his legs just below his crotch.
    [​IMG]

    This leaves the cab piece forming the legs. If you remove the screws, you find that it's already neatly divided. All you need is to remove the front grill (held by pins) and cut it neatly in two. Use a fine saw for this and the cut won't be too wide. Note that you need to cut the pin as well. I had to cut the plastic, then remove the plastic and cut the pin in two places with a heavy wire cutter. If you just make one cut in the middle, it will leave a warped, pointy edge that you'll prick yourself on and it might hinder a proper fit of the cab later on. The two pieces will stay on fairly well on both sides of the cab, but you could build a new tab to hold it if you're really creative. Finally, cut the bar that is used to screw the two leg pieces together, right at the reinforced cross shaped part in his right leg piece.
    [​IMG]

    Now, about that head. As you can see, it's a solid piece with the head itself, a square piece gliding along the channel in the barrel, and a longer piece holding the spring. The head normally pushes down and grabs the back of the channel to stay down. This isn't going to work if you're giving it any articulation, so a new plan is needed. I cut his neck just below the head itself. If you're careful, you can get it off while still leaving a thin layer in the bottom of his hollow head, and also leaving the slightly wider square piece intact. This is really important. Then, cut the longer piece just below the square part. You now have three tiny pieces: the head, the square plate and a thin plastic rod.
    [​IMG]

    That's it for Quickmix, let's slaughter Strongarm too. I took him apart but for the parts I ended up using you could just use a saw. Snap off his arms at the ball joints. Use a fine saw and cut off the molded pieces on his shoulders along with the ball joint itself. You end up with two finely detailed pieces with a short ball joint on them. Now, for the crotch piece you need to cut it off at the narrow part, leaving you with a small piece with two ball joints stuck on it. It's still much too wide for the entire thing to fit inside the cab, so take a saw down the center of it and then file down both sides from the inside, eventually leaving you with two small pieces with ball joints on them, much like the shoulder pieces, only about 1-2 mm thick each. The grayish plastic in this part is annoyingly hard to cut but keep at it.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The upper legs don't need much work. Just cut off the "seats" on the back as they will interfere with posability. Finally, cut off the yellow bars that connect the upper and lower legs, saving as much of them as you can.

    Optional: You can save the black molded pieces that hold the legs together. I ended up not using them but they would, in a perfect world, fit nicely in Quickmix's lower legs too, with some minor trimming.
    [​IMG]

    Optional: If you have any styrene with the exact same diameter as these yellow bars, I would recommend using that instead. I've had some real trouble with these very joints but I don't have another option.

    [​IMG]

    Now we have all the needed pieces and can get to work. At this point, sand down any rough parts and test fit. Also, I really recommend sanding down the original shoulder joint to remove the tiny tabs on the white part that lock it in place and get some more clearance so it can swing back and forth without scraping the paint. I had to do this later on and repaint it, so save yourself the trouble now.
    [​IMG]

    That's it for removing stuff, now let's start adding stuff. I filled in most of the screw holes with Games Workshop Green Stuff, on the top bar behind his head, in two places on the barrel and two on the cab, leaving two on the torso to hold him together better later on. You also need to fill in the hole on the side of the left cab part, to fit Strongarm's leg joint. If you had a styrene piece, make it slightly longer so that it goes all the way through. You'll need as much stability as you can here. I filled it in with Green Stuff and had to reinforce it with a small metal pin because this joint will take some heavy torque abuse, and the yellow part can easily be twisted off. But I'm getting ahead of myself.
    [​IMG]

    Glue your shoulder ball joints to Quickmix's shoulder pieces. Fit the entire assembly with arms and make sure it fits when folded under the truck before you glue it. Fit the ball joint roughly where his original arm screw was. This will give him lower shoulders than originally but if you put them higher it won't fit against the center piece holding his torso together. Leave the actual ball joint, the short piece that you cut off along with the plate, off for now. You don't want it painted anyway, save it for the final reassembly.

    That was the easy part, now for the head. I figured out a quick and easy way to maintain functionality and still make it turn. Drill a hole in the center of the square piece. I tried using my electric drill but there's no way to hold such a small piece in a safe way. Maybe with a real work desk with better tools. Instead I just drilled it manually with a sharp bit, it's fairly soft. Drill until you can just barely force the short rod through it. Glue this end to the bottom on the head. Fill in the back of the head with Green Stuff. Now you have a head with a long, red neck and a square necklace. If you try to reassemble the barrel, you'll see that you can still push it down and wedge the head to one side to keep it down, but there's also some room to pull the head up and turn it around. It's even possible to tilt it slightly. A posable head without any screws or ball joints! Hooray!

    Finally, the hard part. Test fit the yellow joints inside the cab. If you already added metal pins, try turning the legs all the way around to make sure they fit. They should be arranged the same way as on Strongarm, with the rounded part of the upper legs to the front. If you trimmed the crotch pieces enough, they should still fit when you hold the cab parts together and swing the legs all the way around as in the original transformation. In that case, glue them back together and smooth them with Green Stuff and/or thin styrene. If not, sand off some more. This is really important, because if the hips are too wide, the upper legs will tear at the yellow joints when you try to force them through the back of the cab and tear them straight off. Trust me. I hate those joints.

    Optional: Take those black pieces you removed from Strongarm's legs. They should fit on the yellow joints now as well, just as they did on him. You need to trim off the small pin at the "heel" and also trim off the edges of the screw holes on the back to make it thin enough to fit inside the cab along with the upper legs. You could just leave it screwed to those pieces or you could be creative and fill in the entire side of his foot, building around these pieces with Green Stuff or styrene.
    [​IMG]

    It's getting there! Take everything apart and paint it. Mask off the joints if you're spraying since there won't be enough clearance with a coat of paint and you don't want the leg joints too tight or, again, they'll twist right off. Also make sure the shoulder pieces don't scrape against the torso part. Since both parts are molded the same colors you're repainting them (most likely), you can get away with quite thin paint if you sanded it down a bit.

    When everything is painted, glue the shoulder ball joints to their nice new sockets on his shoulders and pop on the arms. Fit the swinging grill pieces on the lower legs and put the upper legs on the dreaded yellow joints. Pray.

    Optionally, fit the black parts (now repainted red) to form nice sides of his legs.

    Reassemble the barrel with the modded head and fit it inside the torso. Screw the torso together with the remaining two screws. Now super glue the hip part to the smooth part where his legs used to be. Depending on the fit and smoothness of the remolded part, you may need to add a supporting piece of styrene at the back.
    [​IMG]

    Give him back Ricochet and Boomer and he's done! You now have a fully posable G1 Quickmix. Brick no more!
    [​IMG]

    Now, what to do about my third Transformer, Hot Spot... hmmm...
     
  4. Sentinel Pax

    Sentinel Pax Well-Known Member

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    Awesome job! I love seeing G1 figures get updated, and I love Quickmix's design. Keep it up, man.
     
  5. Ezilla82

    Ezilla82 Expect the Unexpected.

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    Wow! Dude that is simply amazing, how you did Quickmix. Awesome job, SmokescreenSWE.
     
  6. mattarmstrong

    mattarmstrong Well-Known Member

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    sweet love the posability and a good walkthrough
     
  7. Rumble02

    Rumble02 Radicon of Obliticons

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    absolutely fantastic
     
  8. Lucs

    Lucs This Guy!

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    I agree with everyone here. Great job! Adding articulation to G1 figs is sweet
     
  9. Whelpd

    Whelpd Well-Known Member

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    Nice job
     
  10. Ptitvite

    Ptitvite Construction worker

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    My kinda bash! Great job!
     

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