Minor/Repaint: "Old School" Prime

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by jcsum, Jan 10, 2010.

  1. jcsum

    jcsum Active Member

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    Hi,

    For this custom Optimus Prime, I took a 2007 Movie Optimus Prime (Hasbro) and painted him in his Generation 1 colours. I chose to use the first movie version figure as I thought it was more fitting to do a G1 scheme for a G1 movie figure, instead of ROTF Prime.

    While adopting the G1 colour scheme, I also wanted him to look detailed realistic at the same time. So the influence of the movie version Optimus Primes can be seen in my detailing. This is not meant to be movie or G1 accurate. It is a 2007 movie prime inspired by G1.

    I also wanted the figure to look less bulky and blocky which the 2007 movie Prime tended to look.

    Mods, customs and repainting included:

    1) Complete repaint to G1 colours of red & blue without the flames. This meant reversing several of the colours that were changed for the movie

    2) Repainting certain parts that were made in blue and red plastic to gun metal, red, blue and chrome silver

    3) Repainting the entire exo-skeleton with 4 different silver paints

    4) Colouring and detailing all piping in copper and electrical wires in green, yellow and blue

    5) Highlighting the front grill, bumper, smokestacks, tool box, fuel tanks, steps, sun shields, rims, light covers, back panels and other parts in chrome silver

    6) Highlighting all joint/ gear covers and certain pipes in gold

    7) Repainting and detailing were also done for the inside the forearms

    8 ) Repainting and detailing of the hands

    9) Repainting and detailing of the head

    10) Modifying, repainting and detailing of the gun. This included fabricating a triple barrel out of brass and aluminum, adding an ammunition drum and fabricating an aluminum handle so that Prime can actually hold the gun

    11) Adding a sword to the left hand that is held in place with earth magnets. Sword can be detached or rotated back along forearm.

    12) Replacing the soft rubber smokestacks to slimmer angled-end metal ones. This involved cutting off the old rubber smokestacks, hollowing up the base, adding steel pegs and adding the new metal smokestacks. This also ensures the smokestacks always remain straight, unlike the original pliable ones that always slant.

    13) Adding a silver plated “Autobot” logo emblem on his left shoulder armour plate. This is a call-back to the G1 figure that has the “Autobot” emblem on his left shoulder

    14) Sealing, finishing and waxing the entire figure



    Thanks for reading!

    J C
     

    Attached Files:

  2. mampy

    mampy Movie-Accurate Mampy

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    Nice work here. The paintwork looks really cleanly done and I like how the matte paintjob makes him look cartoony. :thumb 
     
  3. compute146

    compute146 Well-Known Member

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    i second what mampy says,great job,and love the original colour scheme, im a big g1 prime fan, as you know! lol. so this is great work here. fantastic.
     
  4. cowclone

    cowclone I am lost..were am I?

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    can i buy that?...it to nice
     
  5. fateastray

    fateastray AnakRepublikMalukuSelatan

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    I concur with my fellow Radicons. It looks great.
     
  6. jcsum

    jcsum Active Member

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    Thanks everyone!

    @ Mampy - The exact colour tones took time to achieve to give it the G1 "cartoony" look as you said. The first paint job was too deep and dark. BTW, I saw the great job you did on your blaster for your ROTF but I went another direction with mine.

    @ compute146 - Thanks! Your giant OP is ridiculously awesome!

    @ cowclone - Maybe in a bit. This figure is still not 100% perfect. I need to settle some imperfections first but am letting it rest a while. Will keep you posted.

    @ fateastray - thanks!

    Look out for my next Prime. It is going to be another unique version of ROFT Prime. I've got 3 different concepts that I want to explore so far!

    J C
     
  7. marvoflg

    marvoflg Super Powered Warrior

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    I think you need to send this figure to me, he is far too cool to belong to anyone else.

    Nice job!

    MM
     
  8. MatrixDesigns

    MatrixDesigns Banned

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    That is kickass! Love the shiny finish and how clean everything is. How did you make that emblem?
     
  9. jgoss

    jgoss transformers fan 4 life

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    excellent job dude! i feels like old school prime.
     
  10. iam82nz

    iam82nz Well-Known Member

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    Awesome, just awesome. I love it.
     
  11. GerardusMaximus

    GerardusMaximus Deceptocreep

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    Wow I did this same custom a couple years back but I wasnt a radicon back then, yours is much neater! I love it dude it makes me want to repolish my old TFTM Prime! Great job! A Old school Leader Op for a change!
     
  12. jonatron26

    jonatron26 Well-Known Member

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    wow. very awesome.
     
  13. Optimus Scourge

    Optimus Scourge Arcee's boy toy Veteran

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    I really like that a lot!
     
  14. Solrac333

    Solrac333 G1 got it right!

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    Awesome! Because of the thumbnail, I first thought you modified the Classics figure. I like what you did. Looks like a G1/movie/masterpiece combination.
     
  15. jcsum

    jcsum Active Member

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    @ marvoflg - Haha... thanks!

    @ MatrixDesigns -Thanks! A clean paint job just takes time and patience :)  The emblem was actually from cufflinks made from stainless steel that I sawed off the pegs/ stems, grinded and sanded flat. I got them from a gift shop.

    @ jgoss - Thanks! Glad you feel the "old school"!

    @ iam82nz -Thank you!

    @ GerardusMaximus -Thanks! Everyone has been doing ROTF Primes recently so it was a good time to do a TFTM Prime!

    @ jonatron26 -Thanks :) 

    @ Optimus Scourge - Thanks! Me too :-D

    @ Solrac333 - Appreciate it! I think that is my favourite description of it "G1/movie/masterpiece combination"!

    Thanks everyone for your kind comments!

    I had 2 requests for details of the handle for the blaster so I thought I'll share them here for those that are interested.

    Someone shared their method of using a bent hard plastic straw to use as a makeshift handle for the TFTM Prime blaster. While functional, I wanted something more "professional".

    I fashioned a handle out of two pieces of 1mm thick aluminum tubing. The longer one is the shaft and the shorter piece is the handle.

    At the top of the handle, use a Dremel or equivalent handheld rotary tool's saw blade and cut a vertically slit down the center of the tip of the handle. Next, switch to a grinder head and shape a concave indent. The idea is make a fitting indent for the shaft to sit on snugly.

    Next, drill a hole through the shaft. Line up the handle and insert a bolt through the shaft and through the handle. The bolt should be just long enough to extend out of the bottom of the handle so that you can screw on a nut. Add a drop of superglue to ensure the nut does not loosen with movement.

    Finally, you need to secure the shaft/ handle assembly into the barrel of the blaster. First, you will have to drill out the barrel to accomodate the shaft. Once that is clear, insert the shaft and fill in the excess space with epoxy putty. Or use electrical tape and wrap it around the shaft to make it thicker; then shove it and wedge it into the barrel.

    You can use this approach for any type of blaster that you can insert a shaft/ handle into.

    In the event you are looking to install a handle to a weapon that does not have a barrel or you want to attach a handle to a side of a weapon, this is what you can do.

    You will need to make a small base plate out of 3mm thick aluminum, brass, forex board, styrene or any other hard material. I would not use wood as the piece is too small to work well with wood. In this example. I'm using a piece of aluminum cut from a flatbar. Please forgive the "roughness" of the aluminum base plate as I cut it just for this example.

    Cut the base plate to the desired size, file and sand smooth.

    You will need to drill a countersunk hole on one side. This is to take a countersunk bolt so that the head of the bolt will be flush with the surface of the base plate. If you do not have a countersunk drillbit, you first drill a hole (the size of the bolt) through the base plate. Then, you use a bigger drill bit to create the countersunk, which is basically widening the opening of the hole but do not drill all the way through. My photos show both sides of the countersunk hole.

    This will allow you to insert a countersunk bolt through the base plate and through a piece of aluminum tubing which will be your handle. In this case, you will not need to create the concave indent for the handle. Lock the bolt with a nut and superglue as explained above.

    You will now have a handle secured to a base plate that you can glue to your weapon or accessory of your choice. It your weapon does not have a flat surface, I suggest creating one which a dremel sander or file. Sand flat and clean before gluing. Paint over to match the rest of the weapon.

    My last photo shows the head of a countersunk screw. Note: this is a wood screw, you should be using a bolt and not a wood screw. I'm using the wood screw just to show an example of the countersunk head.

    If your figure does not have articulated hands and you cannot find a tubing that fits your hand snugly, use electric tape to use as a wrap or better yet; use electrical wire sleeving, cut to size to fit the handle. This sleeving shrinks by 300% upon application of heat and will create a beautiful fitted handle wrap.

    Best,

    J C
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 11, 2010
  16. chaoseffect

    chaoseffect Custom TF builder

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    They issued several of the original movie figures with G1 paint schemes, and I always wanted to see the same treatment for the Leader Class Prime...

    And it looks so much better than I could even imagine!

    Fantastic work!
     
  17. Superquad7

    Superquad7 We're only human. Super Mod

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    I love that you took a really cool toy (the "non-screen accurate" OP), and made it even cooler. I love all of the choices you've made, and you've managed to successfully give him a really, slick classic feel. Great work :thumb 
     
  18. jcsum

    jcsum Active Member

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  19. katch26

    katch26 Well-Known Member

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    want......this mold looks so much better in the g1 scheme, never was in love with the flame job....
     
  20. OMEGAPRIME1983

    OMEGAPRIME1983 Well-Known Member

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    not to shabby. I likey, but because other people are asking for it I won't say that you should send it to me over them....
     

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