Heavy/Scratch: My Titans Return PMOP upgrades

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by knoted, Dec 20, 2016.

  1. autobot prowl

    autobot prowl Well-Known Member

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    Probably the clear red plastic strip from the old tech specs would work well for the eyes. I had no intention on buying pc-15 but I may have to. Can't wait to order this when my next paycheck comes
     
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  2. primalxconvoy

    primalxconvoy グーグル 翻訳は素晴らしいです!

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    I got a set of the white polished versions for Ginrai (5mm peg handles) and painted them up. I used a brush and applied 1½ coats of Tamiya liquid primer, two coats of Tamiya black (gloss, but it doesn't state so on the jar), gun metal (I forgot the brand) , Mr Metallic brand metallic blue, and a clear blue glaze over the metallic blue.

    I wanted to homage the original G1 guns, while homaging the colours used in his spindly official guns. I'm happy with the results, so thanks to the OP for making them. I just wish the barrels were longer, but that might just be me (I want the double barrelled guns on his shoulders to be bigger, too), due to nostalgia over the size of the original toy's guns (with there original figure being bigger anyway).

    IMG_20170323_064753~01.jpg IMG_20170323_064718~01.jpg IMG_20170323_064806.jpg IMG_20170323_064730.jpg IMG_20170323_064724.jpg
     
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  3. knoted

    knoted Resistor Transistor

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    Holy ....shit !

    Initially I was a little sceptic when you mentioned gloss paint a few posts back, but now that I see the pics; Respect ! Looks really good and I bet it looks even better in person without the camera's flashlight effect.
    The black+blue+silver is not the style I would be going for myself, but I have to admit it does look slick. Especially the silver looks flawless.

    The barrels longer ? Yep, in fact... during design iterations of these guns I think I spent a day or 2 doubting about whether I should keep this length or make them longer. Knowing how Shapeways pricing works - they state print bed space & parts sorting account for the majority of the pricing, with material mass accounting to a lesser extent. With that said, Making them longer would have certainly increased the price.

    Speaking of which.... since a week now, everything on Shapeways seems to have become cheaper by a dollar or 2.

    Anyway, well done on making the glossy style look better than I expected. :thumb 
     
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  4. primalxconvoy

    primalxconvoy グーグル 翻訳は素晴らしいです!

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    Cheers. The gloss look is good, but ironically, perhaps they are too glossy? Under some lightning, it's hard to see the gun metal as the reflections in the gloss look like metallic or white "bits", so it's a bugger to paint.

    I understand your views about the colour choices. I was umming and ahhing whether to go this way, but I wanted some detailing on the nice details already sculpted in. Another idea could be to use a combination of gloss and matte black paints for different addresses and perhaps even darker gun metals or dark greys?

    Anyway, cheers for the guns!
     
  5. knoted

    knoted Resistor Transistor

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    Hmmm... maybe a black 'wash' ontop of glossy gunmetal and then wipe off the areas which you want to retain gloss ?
    I use Vallejo black wash myself (acrylic) but I suppose you can make that by diluting black acrylic paint with water/paint thinner.
     
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  6. SHADDO

    SHADDO Arashikage Decepticon

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    Or you could just do what I do, and use a clear satin sealer spray coat or two. Keeps the glossy figure look without being too glossy. ;D

    Btw, I plan to order a set of these guns pretty soon, sand the handle just a bit (like I did when I de-chromed and painted Jetfire's gun black) to prevent paint rub, black primer coat it, and then a couple of satin clear coats. Looks fantastic and I know these guns will too!
     
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  7. primalxconvoy

    primalxconvoy グーグル 翻訳は素晴らしいです!

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    I was going to sand the handles but refrained from doing so, as the OP couldn't guarantee the tolerances. This was my first ever foray into Shapeways, so I was worried the handles would snap.

    I was wondering though; would this gun look longer/"better " if the handles were moved back more? That way it could appear longer?
     
  8. knoted

    knoted Resistor Transistor

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    I had given thought to that idea during design process. However, there was some reasoning on my part to keep it the way is:

    - The further the handle is being pulled back, the more physical overhang it creates. I knew I would make these guns available in multiple materials with slightly different tolerances
    and I could assume people would be using it for different figures of which their "5mm" peghole hands slightly vary, and some people may or may not sand down the peghandles a bit - so in case the fit would be a little loose, more gunbarrel
    overhang might result into 'saggy' weapon holding. A more centered center of gravity is always more stable than offset.

    - In order to visually make the barrel look a little longer I employed an optical trick - maybe very subtle - but it's there ; as you can see in this picture below, the contour of the triangular cone shape highlighted in red, extends into the shape of the gunbarrel. This is meant to visually extend the barrel. So from most angles, this should provide the viewer the illusion of the gunbarrel extending into the 'main body' of the gun.

    - Also, if you look at the comparison to the actual G1 rifle, you can see that if I had pulled back the handle more, its position would be right beneath the iconic "dual chambers" ; which would make it deviate even more from the G1 version.

    [​IMG]
     
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  9. primalxconvoy

    primalxconvoy グーグル 翻訳は素晴らしいです!

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    Thanks for the info. It's weird, because I still "feel" the original G1 guns are "bigger". I'm sure this is nostalgia, as your comparison photo shows that the barrels, although appearing longer via similar tricks (recessing them and giving the illusion the other parts are hanging over the barrels), are actually shorter. The only thing longer is the rear of the original guns.
     
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  10. SHADDO

    SHADDO Arashikage Decepticon

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    Anytime you sand handles down to prevent paint rub, you shouldn't be sanding enough of the surface off to really be affecting any tolerances to speak of.

    The handles should have the minimum paint anyway, as the figure is typically going to be holding the guns, or have them otherwise plugged in elsewhere, so it's not essential for every coat or layer to be on the handle, thickening it up too much.

    Like I said, just a basic black spray primer/paint (2 in 1) on the lightly sanded handle and a couple of light but SOLID satin clear coats to finish and you should be good, as a general rule.

    The paint on the gun handle of my G3 leader class Jetfire is holding strong 2+ years after de-chroming and painting, with multiple transformations and removals. Hopefully, this can help in the future.
     
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  11. bman29

    bman29 Dancitron

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    Hey chief,
    I got my feet in today and fitted on to Op. At first I was afraid I was going to break them stretching them to attach to the feet tabs but I got them on without a hitch. They look great! I should have them primed and painted up sometime over the weekend. I need to check my paints while I think about it. So I should have some pics to share soon.
    Cheers!
     
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  12. SHADDO

    SHADDO Arashikage Decepticon

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    20170314_051808.jpg Knoted, I'm wondering if there's a way to develop a set of the feet, even if they have to parts form, for the Takara PMOP version? (Maybe they can be placed inside the trailer for alt mode or help close up the front end perhaps?) I'm not entirely sure yet whether or not I'll get the APEX/Bomber set for mine, so foot options would be great.

    Maybe even something that clips to the heel spurs and the front of the foot somehow, to add stability, and maybe even a little more height. If it can provide further function in my version of base mode and vehicle mode, then that's just a plus. ;D

    I don't even know if it would worthwhile for you to bother, but if you do, I'd definitely be interested based on how the other feet look in bot mode.
     
  13. primalxconvoy

    primalxconvoy グーグル 翻訳は素晴らしいです!

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    I second that. I'd like something that gives the little nubs or "toes" that appear on the G1 toy, rather than the flat panel that's on the existing Legends toy.

    I don't want it to stick out the back of the trainer though. Maybe it could fold up, out be easily removed and stored in the backs of the guns or somewhere else, like inside the trainer?
     
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  14. knoted

    knoted Resistor Transistor

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    Thanks !

    Yeah, I am glad I got the thickness of that T-shaped bar correct in 'just' 3 iterations.
    It does indeed take a bit of careful flexing, but the rigidity is really necessary to guarantee a zero wiggle fit,
    as those finger tabs really need to grab around both sides of the inner structure walls.


    First protoptype was 2mm : too rigid & thick.
    Second iteration was 1.46mm : too floppy & thin
    Third version became the final version at 1.79mm : exact amount of rigidity


    Regarding your paint plan ; I do really wish you best of luck, but I can't help but advise a dye bath, instead of painting.
    The surface area between the front toe and the loafer is a big area of friction. Everytime you use the ankle tilt, it exposes part of that area.
    Prior to these feet, I had never dyed an item before and I was a bit apprehensive - but for friction items such as these feet, I wouldn't do it any other way anymore.
    I suppose you could dye them first, then apply paint on the non-friction areas afterwards, if you really want to attain a sort of slick finish....


    @SHADDO & @primalxconvoy : Ok, now there's a challenge I actually doubt I got the chops for. I mean, it would require engineering entirely new feet from the point down
    at the ankle connection where you encounter the first screw - and that's even without taking Godbomber compatibility into consideration.
    I dunno, maybe it's just me feeling a little overwhelmed just by looking at Super Ginrai's foot construction. I would also need to keep in mind protytyping costs, because
    each prototype iteration would cost me circa 1 foot. Taking estimated material mass and partscount into consideration,
    I guess that would be a bit more than the cost for 1 foot of my TR PMOP set, so I'd be lucky if I get it right in one go.

    In theory, the idea is possible but at this very moment it's a big maaaaaybe for me.

    At the moment I'm busy rounding up the old project for the controversial Sky Guardian and I'm at the start of a project for new arms (more 'toon geewunnish) for TR Kup.....

    Again... @bman29 : Goodluck ! Looking forward to see your result.
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2017
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  15. primalxconvoy

    primalxconvoy グーグル 翻訳は素晴らしいです!

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    Cheers. Actually, I just meant a small piece that clipped on the front of the flat part of the foot, to give the illusion of it having the g1 toy version of the feet. It wouldn't be complex.
     
  16. SHADDO

    SHADDO Arashikage Decepticon

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    Yeah, my idea was actually the potentially more complex of the ideas, providing not just the G1 foot aesthetic, but also adding height and heel stabilization, if not further functionality...but hey, simple front pieces would be okay too, lol.

    On a similar but slightly different note, have you thought about hand peg fixes for Ultra Magnus' crap hands, like you did for PMOP? They would be smaller pieces and could peg into the little wrist notches...because I freaking HATE the so-called "articulated" hands on that figure.
     
  17. primalxconvoy

    primalxconvoy グーグル 翻訳は素晴らしいです!

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    I think you meant that question for the OP, not me?
     
  18. SHADDO

    SHADDO Arashikage Decepticon

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    You are quite right, that was intended for Knoted. Apparently, I hit the quote instead of quick reply...oops! ;p
     
  19. knoted

    knoted Resistor Transistor

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    As I indicated before ; this might be too daunting for me at the moment, both in complexity and pricing as well. Maybe I'm overthinking it, but I know almost for sure, this would reqiure more (moving) parts and more material mass than my TR PMOP feet set.
    Who knows, by the time Hasbro's Magnus Prime releases, they might have done something for better QC on those heelspurs and ankle joints,

    Simple add on toe nubs might be possible, but at a quick glance I'd say th spatial margins for clip on functionality might be too small. I could investigate potential but I can't promise a solution.
    As for now, first project up in my pipeline is TR Kup.

    I am sorry - I don't even have a CW Ultra Magnus.....
     
  20. primalxconvoy

    primalxconvoy グーグル 翻訳は素晴らしいです!

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    Cheers. Thanks for investigating!
     

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