Heavy/Scratch: MPM 04 Optimus Prime modifications

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by Lukelbs, Jul 28, 2017.

  1. David Hingtgen

    David Hingtgen Chromaticon

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    Exactly. Somehow Takara has the "ugly milky grey Hasbro plastic" this time. Sigh---at this point I'm hoping/waiting for a 3P company to implement all of Jared's mods and sell it. I've taken hammers and knives to many a TF, but that is just TOO much. It's ridiculous how many issues there are to fix.
     
  2. John TheDestroyer

    John TheDestroyer I rise, you fall

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    Its really not even that many big issues. Most likely, all you really need to do is cut off the red tabs and straighten out some plastic to get a well functioning figure.
     
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  3. Jarrod

    Jarrod Semi-retired Builder

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    It's one of those you've got to see it in person things. I thought the gray looked terrible in photos, but it really does look much better in hand. I don't know what it is, but I am shining to very bright lights directly at it from my work table.

    Haha...if you're just looking to create a flush truck mode, picking up the TT version will require less mods. Including the roof hinges, took me about 30 mins, without them, maybe 15.
     
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  4. tonysandlin

    tonysandlin Well-Known Member

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    I will be doing some brainstorming, but it might be possible to get the second set of wheels in and create the split. You would need a wider wheel well, but perhaps I can salvage that from a junker Leader Prime.
     
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  5. KayODave

    KayODave Well-Known Member

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    I thought so too. Then I got the TT MPM04 in-hand. The grey is fine and it matches up in vehicle mode to make the truck look uniform in colour. The TT truck is definitely better for it then the Hasbro version. The robot mode is perfectly fine as well, no picture will ever do that grey plastic justice.
     
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  6. KayODave

    KayODave Well-Known Member

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    Hey @Lukelbs, did you ever get the fenders to peg in in the new configuration you came up with? Could you show us how to fold them up properly? I can't get the back panels to sit flush because I can't figure out how to rearrange the fenders.
     
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  7. tonysandlin

    tonysandlin Well-Known Member

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    Okay, so I looked at it closer and it is definitely possible to get the second set of wheels on the hips to form the split. The wheels are so thin, that adding another one shouldn't look too bad in vehicle mode, but that all depends on putting in a wider wheel well. For someone who has both the MPM and the Leader, could you tell me if the wheel wells could possibly be swapped so the wider one of the Leader is used on the MPM? Also, does anyone have suggestions for where I could find a set of wheels that are a similar size without buying a second MPM?

    Lastly, I'm working out a way to give him new shoulder guards using part of the back panels. This will shrink the back panels while also allowing the doors on the chest to be full size. Lastly, I would like to try and replace the fuel tanks with the larger ones on the Leader and look for a way to either collapse or somehow shorten them for the back. I think it's possible, but would need some interesting creativity.

    There are a few other things I'd like to look at fixing, but those are the top priority right now.

    @Lukelbs
     
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  8. John TheDestroyer

    John TheDestroyer I rise, you fall

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    You have a difficult road ahead, but it sounds like an awesome road. Good luck :lol 
     
  9. tonysandlin

    tonysandlin Well-Known Member

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    Yes, I'm a bit reluctant to cut into my new figure since it's so expensive, but I've gained some confidence since my HA Soundwave project. I may not get to everything I want to accomplish, but the wheels are a priority and least likely to be damaging (can't you tell I'm obsessed with those wheels??). I just need to keep brain storming and will need some parts to get started.

    This project won't start for a while due to school and the fact that I have a major rework of Leader Jetfire planned as well ;) 
    Hopefully it can start during winter break. If anyone has any suggestions, especially those who were working on the 3P Prime, I'd appreciate anything! :) 
     
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  10. John TheDestroyer

    John TheDestroyer I rise, you fall

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    Can you explain what you have in mind for the wheels? I'm very curious.
     
  11. tonysandlin

    tonysandlin Well-Known Member

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    Sure. I think it's been posted in the remold thread, but I can try and explain it. So there will be a second set of wheels for the back 4. The ones behind will be able to split into 5 parts, each peice expanding outwards on a silder. Then the outer wheels will collapse on a pin into the inner wheels. This way, we can have the correct number of wheels for alt mode, plus the unique split look to the ones on the hip and thigh. Because of the added wheel, the wells will need to be wider, which may present a problem in alt mode.
     
  12. tonysandlin

    tonysandlin Well-Known Member

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    Also, sorry @Lukelbs for hijacking the thread lol
     
  13. John TheDestroyer

    John TheDestroyer I rise, you fall

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    Would something that complex be sturdy at a level this small? I had an alternate idea. It might be slightly sturdier, but it wouldn't look as good as your idea I think. Here's a cutaway sketch I did to kinda show what I mean. The left picture is vehicle mode and the right is it collapsed for bot mode.

    88a69bf0-5566-4a54-9f7c-d6ac210c3143~01.png

    Basically, the outer edges of the inside wheel would fold out on hinges in 5 sections around the wheel, then the outer wheel would collapse into it.
     
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  14. tonysandlin

    tonysandlin Well-Known Member

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    That's an interesting idea, bit I feel like it would take away from the shape of the tire. I'm not sure how sturdy it would be, but I'll practice on some garbage tires first.
     
  15. KayODave

    KayODave Well-Known Member

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    What if the inner wheels were fake ones, slightly smaller than the outer ones so they don't have to roll and take weight from the figure? Then they could be designed solely to expand and cover the outer wheels.
     
  16. tonysandlin

    tonysandlin Well-Known Member

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    Yep, that's the plan actually!
     
  17. KayODave

    KayODave Well-Known Member

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    I think that should be fairly doable. The fenders, on the other hand...

    Fender_Comparison.jpg

    The Leader OP fenders are quite a bit longer and wider than MPM04's, I doubt there's a way to get them to fit. You may have to work with MPM04's fenders.
     
  18. tonysandlin

    tonysandlin Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, that looks like a problem. I'll have to keep looking at other options.

    So here is my quick sketched up diagram of the wheels. I'll probaby end up 3d printing these. 20170921_140210.jpg
     
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  19. tonysandlin

    tonysandlin Well-Known Member

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    Okay, here is a quick mock up of what I plan on doing. Unfortunately, I lost my styrene plastic, so I had to make due with card stock. The second wheel is placed on the outside here to give an idea of what it looks like, but you can imagine it as the inner wheel. I think the best route is to design it and 3D print, but I no longer have a computer capable of doing that. I'll try and tackle it as soon as I have the availability. 20170921_181941.jpg 20170921_181917.jpg
     
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  20. Shin Densetsu

    Shin Densetsu I WILL DESTROY YOU Super Mod

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    Alright the right ear on mine was at an angle, more inwards from the top. This was annoying so I tried popping it off. It ended up snapping at a peg that inserts into the cheek. I can glue it back on but I think either the port it plugged into caused it to sit farther than intended due to being a tad too wide from the front(hard to explain).

    Basically once I removed the ear, I dry fitted it to the head and it still sat out a few millimeters too far. This is why I believe some samples have the right ear tilted inwards at the top. The left ear was straighter on mine since it's molded as part of the helmet. The right ear is a separate piece.

    The right ear has a thin peg on the bottom(plugs into the port on the right side of the helmet) and a hollow peg on top. The hollow peg is supposed to fit into the screw hole, but since the port that the bottom peg plugs into is a bit wide from the front, the top hollow peg will NOT go into the screw hole unless it is angled. On mine it seemed like the factory worker tried doing that before they glued the ear on but failed to ensure the hollow peg was within the screwhole.

    Now what happened with mine is fixable but do proceed with caution if you try to remove the right ear.
     
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