Discussion in 'Transformers News and Rumors' started by Cheem The Rup, Aug 3, 2017.
I've popped down some thoughts down on MP-40 Hot Rodimus - link is in my sig.
I see what you did there and I like it! Keep up the stellar work
Not sure if its just my phone, Android, but i can never see these links. Anybody help me out?
It's because the link is in my signature, as opposed to in the post - I'm not allowed to post it directly according to board rules.
But here it is for you now, as you asked for it... Sixo's Transformers Photo Library: REVIEW: TakaraTomy Masterpiece MP-40 Targetmaster Hot Rodimus
Thanks! I cant seem to find sigs on my phone...but his works.
Great review @Sixo, thought I was gonna have to wait to your March roundup to hear your thoughts on him! Your photos made me excited about Firebolt again, I forgot that his transformation gives him a kind of ab crunch in bot mode. Looks quite lovely next to Nightstick:
I look forward to experiencing both moulds again with fresh eyes.
Also I was kinda looking forward to a transformation sequence from you like you did with Artfire and Nightstick You have any outtakes with Hot Rod and Firebolt both in robot mode?
Thanks so much, Sam! Kind words indeed. Yeah, Firebolt works pretty well with Nightstick, IMO - I'm actually very happy with the new colour scheme for him in hand and comparing the two together. Nightstick is still my favourite of the two though - he's amazing!
And yes, I should have done a transformation sequence, shouldn't I?
Invariably I have outtakes with every review - for example, here I used only 41 out of 63 finalised photos! In reality I will have shot a lot more than that though, but just multiple versions of the same thing. I think this was actually the only one of them both in robot mode though! Feel like I should have done more now.
Here's another that didn't make it in for you though...
Nice! I, like to read your blogs on my morning walk and I’ll definetly check this out.
Are you using your phone in portrait orientation? Turn your phone so it's in landscape orientation, then sigs should show up.
Ha, nice! Thanks.
I successfully swapped Firebolts arms and now he matches the configuration of the original Hasbro version and can transform properly. It’s only one pin per arm that you need to remove. The pin at the top of the double-jointed elbow. You can remove the entire arms really easily because the shoulders are ball joints. This makes it easier to work and not damage the rest of the figure. I believe the knurled end of the pin is on the outside of the arm away from the body. Sorry I didn’t take any pics so I’m not 100% sure. A word of warning that one of my bicep parts has a hairline crack from the pin hole to the outside. I’m not sure if that was caused by me removing the pin. I most likely caused it, but the crack does not seem to affect the joint. I was going to glue it but it’s working fine so I think I’ll leave it alone.
Refer to Arie’s post #1346 to see what this issue is.
Nice! Thinking about doing the same... but never removed a pin in my life.
I hate doing it because there is always risk of damaging the figure, but I hate incorrectly assembled figures more!
You need to do your best to push the knurled end of the pin out first. The pin is a smooth shaft but typically at one end there’s a jagged section that is designed to be larger than the hole and get stuck in the plastic to stop the pin from falling out. If you push the pin the wrong way you will damage the hole too much as you force the pin through.
My method is to try and guess which side the knurling is on. Sometimes you see more damage to the hole on that side. Sometimes you can’t tell and have to guess. I place the part (in this case one of Firebolts arms) on a few layers of cardboard or really soft wood. Or even better something with a hole that’s a bit larger than the pin. I bought a cheap watch repair kit for this purpose. The idea is to support the part so it doesn’t move much but allow somewhere for the pin to go when you start to push it out. Use a small nail or similar object that is smaller than the pin diameter, hold it steady on the pin and then whack it with a hammer. Not too hard to avoid destroying the part. When the pin starts to pop out the other side have a look and see if the knurling is coming out. If it’s out quite a bit and you don’t see the rough knurling stop and try pushing the pin the other way! For Firebolts arm it’s a really short pin so if you get the right end coming out it should fall out pretty quickly.
Swap the parts and be really sure you’ve got it right before putting the pin back in.
To get the pin back in after swapping parts, put the smooth end in the hole and through both parts until it stops with the knurling sticking out. Try to have the knurling on the same side as it was when you took it out. In my case the part was cracked on that side so I flipped the pin and installed it from the other side. Whack it gently with a hammer until the pin is flush with the part or if you’re careful you can squeeze the pin in using pliers.
There are YouTube videos on pin removal and I believe there’s more info in the radicons area of this site.
Also, some people use an automatic center punch to get pins out but I have not tried that yet.
Hope that helps!
I'm curious to how a pin can be removed with a center punch.
Automatic center punch. It's spring loaded and a fine point one may work. I usually use a Lisle 30280 center punch.
My go to method is setting whatever I'm punching on a kneaded eraser. It's a soft pliable eraser that will conform to the item and allow the pin to move without resistance.
So do you apply the automatic center punch against some kind of nail that is smaller than the pin diameter? I'm trying to imagine how you would hold everything together with both hands.
More or less hold what you want to punch with one hand and the automatic center punch in the other. The automatic frees up one hand. With the automatic punch there is no need for a mallet or pin punch.
Regarding punching pins, I’m curious what’s the best way to push in a pin that’s not sitting flush with the surface
But what if the automatic center punch is bigger than the pin diameter?
That's why I use a finer point auto pin punch like the one I mentioned. If it's too large and the pin is too small, I would suggest a smaller pin punch. Then set the item being punched in something like the kneaded eraser as I suggested. Then use a soft rubber mallet with the punch. This way it's being held firm in the eraser allowing you to use both hands to punch the pin. The soft eraser allows the pin being punched to move against less resistance.
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