Minor/Repaint: Movie Megatron Redux

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by Wraithier, Jul 30, 2007.

  1. Wraithier

    Wraithier Well-Known Member

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    Ok so I picked up another movie Megatron and I've decided to try to dye this one. I have a few questions before I start, and yes I've already read Ops tutorial, but I still want to ask some questions. First of all the blue paint apps, do I need to strip those before dying, or will they just come out a darker color? Second has anyone tried the Isopropyl method on Megatron? Does it work, or it works on pretty much all TF's that we know of so it should work on him?

    The electronics inside are kind of a problem. I have got them almost all the way out, but the wires going into his battery compartment I don't think I'm going to be able to do anything with. I was thinking that I'm just going to wrap the electronics really well inside a plastic bag so they don't get wet while I dip his chest area into the dye. Yes I know not to dip the electronics into the water at all. I was going to hold the bag while I lower the part in with tongs. I don't think it'll cause any problems if the batter compartment wires get wet, as long as I give them enough time to dry.

    Finally, what color do you guys think to dye him? My initial inclination was to dye him black and follow Ops method by just dry-brushing him silver. My other option is to die him a little darker grey and dry brush him with gunmetal metallic, which is what I used on my first repaint.

    This is probably going to be one I keep for myself.
     
  2. Wraithier

    Wraithier Well-Known Member

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    No one here has experience with dyeing? Do I need to remove the paint apps?

    I'm also looking for opinions, dark grey or black?
     
  3. Wraithier

    Wraithier Well-Known Member

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    No one here has experience with dyeing? Do I need to remove the paint apps?

    I'm also looking for opinions, dark grey or black?
     
  4. grock35

    grock35 Hmmmm...

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    i've dyed a couple of figures and it is up to you if you want to remove the paint or not...the paint will get darker....the blue will probably turn into black...i'd suggest for more control over the outcome that you remove the paint apps....and also if there is silver and you dye it...it will turn another color....like if you dye it black and there are silver apps on there, the silver will turn to a very cool bronze color...so it is up to you but i think as for a first time dye and on such a pricey figure that you remove the paint...then dye...then detail
     
  5. grock35

    grock35 Hmmmm...

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    i've dyed a couple of figures and it is up to you if you want to remove the paint or not...the paint will get darker....the blue will probably turn into black...i'd suggest for more control over the outcome that you remove the paint apps....and also if there is silver and you dye it...it will turn another color....like if you dye it black and there are silver apps on there, the silver will turn to a very cool bronze color...so it is up to you but i think as for a first time dye and on such a pricey figure that you remove the paint...then dye...then detail
     
  6. Wraithier

    Wraithier Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the help! I think I'm going to die him black anyway. Will the paint apps just turn a darker black? That may look cool...as would the bronze (I can't remember if Movie Megs has any silver apps, don't have him in front of me ATM).
     
  7. Wraithier

    Wraithier Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the help! I think I'm going to die him black anyway. Will the paint apps just turn a darker black? That may look cool...as would the bronze (I can't remember if Movie Megs has any silver apps, don't have him in front of me ATM).
     
  8. grock35

    grock35 Hmmmm...

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    they should get darker...i don't remember if megs has silver on him or not....but to give you an idea of the outcome...here is a protoform prime that i just dyed with no paint removal...the teal and the bright red were the only added colors afterwards...any other colors were a result of the dye...and you could see what silver turns into when dyed black

    [​IMG]
     
  9. grock35

    grock35 Hmmmm...

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    they should get darker...i don't remember if megs has silver on him or not....but to give you an idea of the outcome...here is a protoform prime that i just dyed with no paint removal...the teal and the bright red were the only added colors afterwards...any other colors were a result of the dye...and you could see what silver turns into when dyed black

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Wraithier

    Wraithier Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Grock! That looks awesome. I'm glad to see it turns out pretty dark! I love that bronze color also. I hope you don't mind me asking a few more questions. I just like to make sure I know exactly what I'm doing on an expensive figure like this guy.

    First: The water temp. I have a gas stove, so it's kinda hard to regulate it. Should I just keep it on low and if the dye doesn't take just wait a little longer? I don't want to warp him. What technique do you recommend?

    Second: Can I do more "applications if it's not dark enough. IE: If I dip him in and he's a grey color, can I let the part cool and then redip it?

    If you have anymore resources I can look at other than Ops post I'd appreciate it. I think I might just test a small part with the paint apps and see what it turns out like. If the blue is just going to turn into a darker black it might look cool.
     
  11. Wraithier

    Wraithier Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Grock! That looks awesome. I'm glad to see it turns out pretty dark! I love that bronze color also. I hope you don't mind me asking a few more questions. I just like to make sure I know exactly what I'm doing on an expensive figure like this guy.

    First: The water temp. I have a gas stove, so it's kinda hard to regulate it. Should I just keep it on low and if the dye doesn't take just wait a little longer? I don't want to warp him. What technique do you recommend?

    Second: Can I do more "applications if it's not dark enough. IE: If I dip him in and he's a grey color, can I let the part cool and then redip it?

    If you have anymore resources I can look at other than Ops post I'd appreciate it. I think I might just test a small part with the paint apps and see what it turns out like. If the blue is just going to turn into a darker black it might look cool.
     
  12. Ops_was_a_truck

    Ops_was_a_truck JOOOLIE ANDREWWWWWS!!!!!!

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    Hey dude. Let me see if I can offer some help.

    The blue paint apps on Megatron come off nice and easily with some isoprophyl alcohol; I know, I stripped him before I started. In fact, just rubbing some of the isoprophyl on a cloth and just rubbing down his wings might save you the stress of having to take apart that wing/electronics assembly.

    Enclosing the electronics in a plastic bag while you dip the rest of the part into boiling hot water is probably not the best idea – the plastic bag may boil as well, melting to your wires! I’m still uncertain on the right, best answer to trying to dye this Megatron. I mean, the closest solution I can think of is to remove any of the loads and the sources (i.e., all of the equipment inside the battery compartment, all of the lighting, the soundboard microchip, etc.) and leave the wires; the wires themselves might take the heat of boiling water, although I will not stand behind that assumption.

    I think a darker gray base coat covered with gunmetal metallic would look downright wicked. If that’s what you go with, I say “Badass.” I can’t wait to see what you do with that.

    In regards to the electronics – take haste and be careful. Don’t ruin your figure while trying to press ahead with the dying process; $50 ain’t worth that much determination.

    Your second post:

    I’ve found that parts start to take the dye when the water is just below boiling point; i.e., once you see the water bubbling, drop the temperature down, wait until the water regains some uniformity, and then start dipping the parts intermittently. Yes, you can certainly continue to dye after you’ve dipped the parts once; in fact, I recommend doing that. Pull your parts out and let them cool for a minute or so between dyings so that you can see if a part has warped or not.

    If you’re looking for more dying resources, try registering at www.tfmaster.com and searching for “dye” or “dying;” there are some other tutorials there on dying parts or full TFs.
     
  13. Ops_was_a_truck

    Ops_was_a_truck JOOOLIE ANDREWWWWWS!!!!!!

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    Hey dude. Let me see if I can offer some help.

    The blue paint apps on Megatron come off nice and easily with some isoprophyl alcohol; I know, I stripped him before I started. In fact, just rubbing some of the isoprophyl on a cloth and just rubbing down his wings might save you the stress of having to take apart that wing/electronics assembly.

    Enclosing the electronics in a plastic bag while you dip the rest of the part into boiling hot water is probably not the best idea – the plastic bag may boil as well, melting to your wires! I’m still uncertain on the right, best answer to trying to dye this Megatron. I mean, the closest solution I can think of is to remove any of the loads and the sources (i.e., all of the equipment inside the battery compartment, all of the lighting, the soundboard microchip, etc.) and leave the wires; the wires themselves might take the heat of boiling water, although I will not stand behind that assumption.

    I think a darker gray base coat covered with gunmetal metallic would look downright wicked. If that’s what you go with, I say “Badass.” I can’t wait to see what you do with that.

    In regards to the electronics – take haste and be careful. Don’t ruin your figure while trying to press ahead with the dying process; $50 ain’t worth that much determination.

    Your second post:

    I’ve found that parts start to take the dye when the water is just below boiling point; i.e., once you see the water bubbling, drop the temperature down, wait until the water regains some uniformity, and then start dipping the parts intermittently. Yes, you can certainly continue to dye after you’ve dipped the parts once; in fact, I recommend doing that. Pull your parts out and let them cool for a minute or so between dyings so that you can see if a part has warped or not.

    If you’re looking for more dying resources, try registering at www.tfmaster.com and searching for “dye” or “dying;” there are some other tutorials there on dying parts or full TFs.
     
  14. Wraithier

    Wraithier Well-Known Member

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    I think I can get enough slack on the wires etc that I can keep the electronics and stuff out of the boiling water. (Does the water have to be boiling BTW? Like a full rolling boil or just bubbling?). The only other option may be to cut the two wires going into the battery compartment and re-solder (or even just splice them back together) them afterward. They are pretty thin and fragile looking.
     
  15. Wraithier

    Wraithier Well-Known Member

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    I think I can get enough slack on the wires etc that I can keep the electronics and stuff out of the boiling water. (Does the water have to be boiling BTW? Like a full rolling boil or just bubbling?). The only other option may be to cut the two wires going into the battery compartment and re-solder (or even just splice them back together) them afterward. They are pretty thin and fragile looking.
     
  16. Wraithier

    Wraithier Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys! Appreciate all the help. This is probably a tough figure to try, being only my second repaint, but I have a tendency to jump right in LOL.
     
  17. Wraithier

    Wraithier Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys! Appreciate all the help. This is probably a tough figure to try, being only my second repaint, but I have a tendency to jump right in LOL.
     
  18. Ops_was_a_truck

    Ops_was_a_truck JOOOLIE ANDREWWWWWS!!!!!!

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    If you're cool with soldering, I'd say remove the wires entirely. I just don't know what the heat rating is on the wires (or their sleeves) and I just wouldn't risk putting them in that water.

    As for the water mixture - once it begins to bubble, I usually bring the heat setting down. I usually don't let the mixture reach a full boil.
     
  19. Ops_was_a_truck

    Ops_was_a_truck JOOOLIE ANDREWWWWWS!!!!!!

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    If you're cool with soldering, I'd say remove the wires entirely. I just don't know what the heat rating is on the wires (or their sleeves) and I just wouldn't risk putting them in that water.

    As for the water mixture - once it begins to bubble, I usually bring the heat setting down. I usually don't let the mixture reach a full boil.
     
  20. Wraithier

    Wraithier Well-Known Member

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    Is it possible to die without all the hot water problems? This guy is saying to die plastic parts with hot tap water...

    It's paintball equipment, buy still plastic, and If I can just leave the part in for a long time that'd be much easier.

    http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=452598

    As far as soldering, soldering together two small wires is easy. Just the problem of how thin the insulation is on them and finding the right tools, which I no longer have. :( 
     

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