Heavy/Scratch: Megatron?

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by Robot.MacGyver, May 13, 2011.

  1. Robot.MacGyver

    Robot.MacGyver Improvisational Engineer

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    Greetings all.
    It seems like ( Haven't a Clue ) and I had the same idea at the same time.
    That being said, I decided to diverge.
    With this particular mold, I don't think it could get any better than the Premium Version.
    This all started as a kibble removal and arm cannon mod.
    So upon my arduous dyeing process, low and behold the (Black) dye comes out brown. (Sigh)
    It's the particular type of plastic that Megatron is made out of.
    Other parts I tested on came out pure black.
    See the center chest armor.
    Anyways, it's kinda like Megatron, however, being that it came out brown, I was thinking ROTF/DOTM (Browning)?
    I think it came out cool though.

    There are some special techniques that I used on some aspects
    This is the biggest custom, I've done to date.
    I usually work with deluxe size for some odd reason. (easier)
    Anyways on to the good stuff.

    Meg's original paint was removed by soaking in 91% isopropyl alcohol.
    When you let it sit long enough, a simple stiff brush (tooth brush) will work to remove a lot of the paint. Keep soaking and brushing.
    (DO NOT USE 91% ALCOHOL ON CLEAR PLASTIC!!)
    @ 91% the alcohol is too strong and weakens Clear plastic to the point that pieces break from mere handing.
    I think that the clear plastic has a high acrylic content, or is entirely acrylic.
    Alcohol wrecks acrylic.(duh)

    Dyeing works best by using a double boiler method.
    I've dyed a lot of stuff and strait 1 pot method almost always causes warping.
    The heat is too intense and it's difficult to maintain even temperature.
    Use a larger container, place a grill of some kind at the bottom.
    This allows for boiling bubbles to freely escape, otherwise they cause the container you place inside to shake too much.
    The level of the water should be about an inch below the inside container.
    This allows for some heat dissipation.
    The water in the inside container will not boil before the water on the outside of it.
    In fact, it probably wont reach a rolling boil at all.
    While the parts are submerged, keep the water moving.
    This keeps the temperature consistent.
    Heat is the tricky part.
    There is a magic temp, that allows the plastic to take the dye, but a few degrees, above that and the plastic warps.
    When almost done with a batch of parts, turn off the heat and keep soaking.
    Air cool only, then rinse with hot water.

    The effect on the head was done by using 91% alcohol and a brush, removing some of the dye around the face.
    The alcohol will remove some of they dye.
    It has a faded look to it.
    I plan on exploring that trick some more in the future.
    Then I used an exacto to scratch off the top layer of plastic to expose the lighter grey underneath.
    I dye because I'm not too fond of paint apps.

    Magic erasers are your friend too.
    before:
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    After:
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    [​IMG]
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    Last edited: Jul 15, 2011
  2. shapercreator14

    shapercreator14 Terrorcon

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    i really like how this came out, and makes me wish i didn't tear my movie 1 megs to shreds for cannibalizing parts for my rotf/dotm bridge megs i'm working on
     
  3. ThisGuy

    ThisGuy True Leader

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    Not only does this look awesome but I learned a lot too. Thank you.
     
  4. Slothboy

    Slothboy Nick

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    I really like the effect the dye made - it looks metallic almost. I'd add some gold detailing to complement the brown. I think it'd round it out quite well as Browning. :) 

    Thanks for describing the process as well. Those are some great tips.
     
  5. TrueNomadSkies

    TrueNomadSkies Airachnid's ratservant

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    Yeah, unintentional or not, I think I like that shade even better than if it were black, so maybe it wasn't so bad after all. :) 
     
  6. 6leo

    6leo Well-Known Member

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    nice weapon
     

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