Before you start, and note from member Erland: You know the part where the wing folds over, to go from alt mode to bot mode (that little black piece that broke on earlier MP's)? The wings [now] just pop off, and there is no reason to mask the entire figure. (This is something that the MP-11 mold updated from the original MP-3 ~Superquad7) * * * * * I found a way to cut down the time and effort it takes to remove the camouflage pattern from the Masterpiece Acid Storm. It took about three (3) hours, including one (1) hour of rubbing to remove the camouflage with alcohol. I’m not a customizer, but have learned a lot from everyone here so thanks for sharing your great ideas. I read posts from Superquad7 and TheDarkSeeker on removing the camouflage pattern on Acid Storm and wanted to give them thanks for doing it first. I tried it their way (with alcohol and Q-tip), and remembered an old R/C Car trick: when trying to remove paint from aluminum parts, give it an Easy-Off bath. Using Easy-Off did not damage my figure. I waited over a month before posting this to make sure that there wasn’t any damage from the chemicals. Items Needed 1. Gloves 2. Easy-Off Heavy Duty Oven and Grill Cleaner (the name brand is better than the generic brand) 3. Masking Tape (Blue Painters tape worked best for me) 4. Q-tips 5. Toothpicks 6. X-Acto Knife 7. Rag/Cloth 8. Water 9. Degreaser (I used 409) 10. MP Acid storm Step-by-Step Guide: Step 1: Remove missiles and rear fin, place missiles to the side. To help with the mess, I placed the rear fins on a Tupperware cover/top: Step 2: Cover the entire body of the jet with masking tape and be sure to separate the wings from the body, or remove the wings from body. Since you’re only removing the camouflage from the wings, it’s important to make sure the wings are separated from the rest of the figure to avoid getting Easy-Off on unwanted places (see picture below). For masking, I used blue painter’s tape because it doesn’t leave a film (I left the blue painters tape on the figure for a few days and there was no sticky residue or film when I removed the tape), or use any kind of masking tape that works for you: Here’s an example of not separating wings from body when masking area: Step 3 (optional): With 1-inch blue tape cover the Decepticon symbols only if you want to keep them. Since you can see the Decepticon symbols through the blue tape, I used an X-Acto blade to cutout the outline of symbol. Helpful hint: The new X-Acto blades are really sharp; if you use these blades use a light hand or you’ll risk cutting into the figure. I found it easiest to score the tape over the symbol first, using a ruler for straight cuts. Whatever you do, take your time to avoid any damage: Step 4: It’s bath time! Spray the Easy-Off about 2 inches away from the figure. You’ll want to get a nice coat of Easy-Off all over the wings. You’ll begin to the see the figure foam up, and it’ll look like it’s sizzling. Don’t worry! This is what you want. You will not damage the figure. Be sure to spray enough that it covers the surface. In the picture below, I placed a paper towel under Acid Storm to catch any excess drip. Let the figure sit in its Easy-Off Bath for two (2) hours. The reason I left the figure soaking for two hours is because I was working on another project. If I were to do it again, I would check the figure after 30 minutes (and not 2 hours) to see if the camouflage pattern would come off easily on the Q-tip: Step 6: After soaking for two hours, I took a Q-tip and rolled it lightly over the surface of the figure. You don’t want to remove all of the Easy-Off because you’ll have to go in with a toothpick to remove the paint from the panel lines. Change the toothpick often to avoid build-up. (Helpful hint: you can reuse the toothpick by cutting the tip at an angle). Step 7: If you covered the Decepticons symbol with the 1 inch blue tape (see Step 3), it’s time to remove the tape. You’ll see some of the camouflage paint surrounding the Decepticon symbol. Very, very carefully, go back in with a Q-tip and gently rub away the camouflage paint: Step 8: Use Q-tips and 91% rubbing alcohol to cleanup any remaining camouflage. I dipped the Q-tips in the alcohol and gently rubbed it over the figure. If you rub too hard, you will remove its sheen/shine. Step 9: Dampen a cloth with water and degreaser and clean the wings. It should be just enough that your cloth/rag is damp and not soaked. I also rinse the wings under warm running water. This will take off any of the remaining alcohol and Easy-off left on the wings. Step 10: If you see any white crust on the wings of the figure, don’t worry - this is just dried Easy-Off. Simply wipe it clean with rag: This is the first one I did over a month ago. The plastic is still good: I tested it on a AS i bought from ebay for $40 bucks. The worst case i had a extra body and head if it didn't work. But the figure is still good. For the stripes on acid storm I used liquid masking film and masking tape . First put down quarter inch masking tape ( any size will do) where you want the edge.I brushed on several thin coats of liquid mask on the masking tape and wing. I also brushed it under the wing to prevent overspray, and sped up the drying time with a hairdryer. Since liquid mask dries clear I like to leave as many brush lines and lumps as possible so I can see what I'm cutting. After it's dry I used a ruler and the edge of the tape as a guide, and cut the liquid mask. I repeated the process for the top, and then painted the stripe. I did the strip just to show the process of getting straight lines with masking tape and liquid mask. I'll eventually do another color, the purple color was the first color in my reach. After the paint is completely dry I rubbed the liquid mask off with my finger. I have no reason to lie about my results. I got the idea of using liquid mask from your post. Since I didn't get a chance to take pics throughout the process with the red stripes, I just thought to share how to get clean lines using liquid mask as I was trying out the same process with the purple stripes. What this picture shows is (1) the process and application of the liquid mask, and (2) shows that you need to be a little messy when applying paint to make the liquid mask visible. Remember the straighter your cut the cleaner your lines. That's good to hear. Don't forget to clean it well. Or you will have a crusty Astrotrain.